DIY E fuel suggestions needed.

[JCart]

Hey Guys,

Like doing things and wanna make a fuel system. Gonna use stock e fuel (7.3) pump have filters and aeromotive regulator with I think it’s AN 6 fitting holes in it. What I’m wanting to do is run SS hard line to the rear of each respective head and plumb into the stock fuel ports, what is the diameter and thread count, size for those fittings? And what diameter SS line do you suggest? In other set ups I’ve just used the stock lines from the banjo bolt back, this time wanna do something a little different for fun.

Will be running 175/80 injectors and T500 HPOP so nothing outrages. Any suggestions appreciated....

Thanks,

jrc.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

Take a look at 444 fab. They are new system builder. Best pics are on their facebook. I'm going with 444 fab.

 

[morefuel]

The fittings in the heads are 1/8" npt. I personally would just run -6 or 3/8 to the each head although for no more fuel than you'll have I think -4 would be fine. For the drivers side head you will want the shortest fitting possible, I used https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-660831. I also ran 3/8" Nickle/Copper brake tubing, I was afraid that stainless might work harden and crack.

 

[gnxtc2]

Here are some pics before I went with a T4 set up. The braided lines are -6 covered in heat sleeving due to running in the area of the turbo. The feed to the heads 1/8NPT x -6AN (I tried a swivel fitting (black) and then went to a 90* fitting (blue) ). I used Ermeto compression fittings on the hard line in the valley of the engine. Down by the filters, the -6 hose is just clamped. You need to install a valve because the tanks will gravity drain when you change filters. The return lines (-4) are the OEM ones just plumbed into the regulator.

Hope this helps.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[psmike]

sub

 

[old man dave]

I think it was Swamp's who said the hard 90* fittings had too much flow turbulence and the sweep bend tubing fittings were the way to go. Have to use a close radius sweep bend fitting since the wide radius fitting does not clear the firewall when using a fuel rail plug modified for an AN-6 male fitting..

You can make your own fuel rail adaptor plug to AN-6 by chopping off any steel AN-6 male/1/4"NPT adaptor fitting, drilling out the fuel rail banjo fitting and brazing on the male AN-6 tit with the hex section. Also bore out the hole in the male tit, depending on the brand, the hole can be pretty small. Earl's suck in this aspect. You can also bore out the fuel rail plug hole and side holes a bit.

You can use either a female AN-6 hose end or a female JIC-3/8" tubing adaptor fitting. Either a JIC-3/8" tube flare or a tubing ferrule flareless adaptor fitting

Diesel Innovations sells the fuel rail plug/AN-6 male adaptor.

Aeroquip is the only one I found who makes a close radius sweep bend fitting. Aeroquip number for the aluminum one is FBM-14032 and the steel sweep bend is FBM1083. I finally wound up using the steel close radius sweep bend after kinking two of the aluminum ones. About $35 for the steel ones, special order from Summit Racing. The pictures in Summit's online catalog do not show the differences in the fittings. The sweep bend in the pics is the anodized aluminum one, the steel one is natural color.

 

[JCart]

Thanks Fellas,
Really appreciate your collective insights, links and pix. As I’ve installed the RiffRaff end rail fuel plugs already, think I’ll use the stock fuel port locations to feed fuel for now. Again this is my DD work truck so it won’t be anything silly, just looking for dependable power.

Cool idea Dave on the brazed fitting that’s awesome. And the notion of nickel Copper line is a good one too as I was wondering about SS.

Again all valuable info guys thanks so much. Gotta get on this as I have a small fuel leak and guessing it’s the mechanical pump failing, or leaking hose, or the frickin bowl. So looking forward to having all that keerap off.

Will keep you all posted on how I make out.

j

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

JCart,

If you are like me you have looked at a lot of different layouts for this.
I like a lot of Mark Fuga's ideas. I don't like his pump mount set up. I do like that he (and GNXT Billy) retained the original fuel lines from frame to valley. You couldn't bend up a better fit. BUT, I'm not using compression fittings, I'm brazing JIC (AN) males to the end of the tubes.
I like a lot of 444 Fab layout. Best place to look a their stuff is on Facebook.
I'm going to run twin stock SD electric pumps but the second one will be controlled by a pressure switch on demand. I have to do something to "excercise" the second pump too. Maybe run while cranking.
As far as the SS tube vibration cracking: Guess it depends on the grade of the tubing. I have access to good stuff, my work shop has $20k in hyd fittings and the like, with 2x week sales calls. I see no problem with SS tubing, I literally have miles of it at 3600 psi with CNG fuel. On garbage trucks bouncing around all day. Only failures are always something moving that shouldn't, like a loose tank mount.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

There are great features in Stricktly Diesel, Dieselsite and Irate's systems, all use SS tubing and various routing. I strongly disagree with Dieselsite fuel filter set up, no way you should DRAW fuel through a 2 micron filter. All have features I like. But the best overall is 444 Fab.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

I also have vendors that love to please so one of them fabbed me a new duplicate fuel delivery line for down the frame rail from selector valve (soon to be electric pump / filter set up) to hoses under the L exhaust manifold that go from frame to engine. The original is 5/16 tube, now I have an exact copy in 3/8 ss with #6 JIC ends on it to replace the original. Fun this no?

 

[bluedge8]

One thing I am planning on doing someday is still using both tanks, but dumping the factory selector valve and installing the Beans sump kit I already have into the 39 gal tank I already have for the rear, then keep the front tank and set it up on an electric pump to dump into the rear tank, the easy way would be to manually control that pump, but I have had Ideas of making it automatic using the fuel gauge sending units, but I just haven't figured out how to build in safety's so you don't pump an entire tank on the ground and burn out the pump.

 

[old man dave]

One way to select between tanks is to have two fuel pumps selected by the tank selector switch. Just have to remember that the selector switch changes polarity to shift the selector valve. Using relays with inline diodes would be able to control each pump.. May have to use check valves (Aeroquip makes AN-10 check valves) to keep flow towards the engine and not backflow through the pump not in service.

Could still use the tank selector valve for the return lines to the tanks.

Haven't tried this yet myself but am thinking about it.

The brazed fuel rail plug/AN-6 adaptor is a copy of what Bean's sold in his fuel system kit and a poor guy's version of the machined one Diesel Innovations sells. It pays to have a buddy who is a great machinist.

 

[m j]

no reason to braze, just put a jic flare on the existing tube in the valley

 

[Copperhead]

Myself,....Like you, enjoy building things,....SO,....With that being said, I'm doing a DIY Electric Fuel System on my rig in a few weeks. For the time being,....I'm staying with the stock Turbo platform. My future plan is to upgrade to a T-4 system w/ 364.5 Borg Warner Turbo when my budget allows.

I have a set of 160/30 injectors that I'll be using with both Turbo set-ups.

As far as my fuel system goes,....
I have a stock 99-03 SuperDuty fuel pump,.....and I plan to utilize my stock (OEM) fuel lines going to the heads. I will be using this to attach them,........
https://backwoodsdiesel.com/collect...troke-mechanical-fuel-pump-******-banjo-block

https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-97-Ford...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I don't know if the lines will be large enough to handle this or not,....BUT,... I'm going to find out.

FWIW,
My truck is primarily a Tow-Rig,....not an all-out performer, so I think I'll be ok.