I have a little play/slop in my drive train when I let off the peddle and then back on it. Everything has been gone through except the zf5 and transfer case. The zf5 sounds good and no unusual vibration threw the shifter. I'm thinking the chain in the transfer case; no sound or vibration? The truck has 161,000 miles on it. Should their be any play? I haven't driven a different OBS and this one has done it for as long as I owned it. It's not getting worse.
Drive train play/slop
- Thread starter MeTo
- Start date
Im guessing you're on your own. I read it and thought "how did you "go through everything" but not inspect the other two?"
Leave it in gear and try to turn the rear shaft and see if it has a quarter turn in it of slop. If thats good, do the same with the othrr shaft and see if its in the tcase. Or take an hour and pull the tcase and split it to see if its worn.
Theres no magic answers to be found. I will say my last zf was a 5 speed and it and the manuals ive had in Rangers all had some slop.
Leave it in gear and try to turn the rear shaft and see if it has a quarter turn in it of slop. If thats good, do the same with the othrr shaft and see if its in the tcase. Or take an hour and pull the tcase and split it to see if its worn.
Theres no magic answers to be found. I will say my last zf was a 5 speed and it and the manuals ive had in Rangers all had some slop.
sootie
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imo every truck does it. its normal.
"Some slope" and "every truck does it", I like those tolerances. It's golden. IMO, for a truck with 161,000 on the boxes, I think it's ok. I guess I should have just asked if there is an acceptable amount of shaft rotation and if so how much, 1/8 turn?
I have a neighbor who spent his career as a heavy equipment and diesel mechanic; his nickname is the diesel whisperer. He was riding with me a few weeks ago and pointed it out. Every time I see him now, he asks if I repaired it. He is after my beer, I know it. Cold weather is here in Wisconsin and I'm not mucking around with the Tcase now. I will give it a look see in the spring.
On a side note; dropping the Tcase, I would have at least an hour invested in just enjoying some craftbrew.
I have a neighbor who spent his career as a heavy equipment and diesel mechanic; his nickname is the diesel whisperer. He was riding with me a few weeks ago and pointed it out. Every time I see him now, he asks if I repaired it. He is after my beer, I know it. Cold weather is here in Wisconsin and I'm not mucking around with the Tcase now. I will give it a look see in the spring.
On a side note; dropping the Tcase, I would have at least an hour invested in just enjoying some craftbrew.
Well, Ron was right, they all do it. You dont have that cushion like an auto where it absorbs stuff through the fkuid coupling. Its gear on gear on gear and if you checked the u joints and they had any measurable slop then in order to eliminate it you'd have to make sure there is none. Anywhere. End to end. Or it all adds up.
griz700rocket
Member
Mines does it also and it's slack in the gear mesh in the rear diff. Jack up the rear end and turn the drive shaft back and forth with it in gear. Should be able to pick out where it's coming from.
Mark Kovalsky
Active member
What does that mean? How did you go through everything? And what is everything except the ZF5 and the transfer case? How much backlash is there in the differential? In my experience, that is where almost all of the slop is found.
Michael Dimock
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On my truck, there is considerable play in the tcase between the input shaft, sliding collar, and output shaft. Someday I will take it apart and at least replace the collar. The chain is only for 4wd, so it won't affect anything under normal operation in 2wd.
For the rear diff, backlash on my 170k 4.10 gears was a bit high at .018, but there was far more play in the axle shaft to side gears in the carrier as well as the cross pin. The carrier was slightly wallowed out as you could see oil being pushed out at the pin when you turned the yoke back and forth.
I have about a 1/6th of a turn on the rear diff and probably the same at the trans/tcase. Seems normal at the diff for used stuff, but should be less upstream. I have an e40d and can definitely feel the play/clunk if you let off the throttle and get back on quickly.
For the rear diff, backlash on my 170k 4.10 gears was a bit high at .018, but there was far more play in the axle shaft to side gears in the carrier as well as the cross pin. The carrier was slightly wallowed out as you could see oil being pushed out at the pin when you turned the yoke back and forth.
I have about a 1/6th of a turn on the rear diff and probably the same at the trans/tcase. Seems normal at the diff for used stuff, but should be less upstream. I have an e40d and can definitely feel the play/clunk if you let off the throttle and get back on quickly.
griz700rocket
Member
1/16th seems perfectly normal to me for a diff with some miles on it.
Seriously people? I apologize for the trouble and inconvenience.
I have never experienced a forum with as high a density of net picking argumentative assholes. Thank you!
Mods, you can ban me if you want? I don't care!
Nobody is picking an argument. I explained why i was a bit skeptical of your explanation. If you didnt check the trans or t case, what exactly does "going through everything" mean? You're missing the point. If skipping those two critical items still equates to somehow being thorough, people have to ask really pointed questions because they will be wondering what you overlooked.
If i asked you "why is my engine misfiring? I changed all the plugs except the last two". Would it not be ok for you to say "well, why didnt you change the last two?"
Now if you did ask me that and I said "god! you're an azzhole. Why do you have to be so argumentative?" and im assuming you'd be wondering why in the hell you tried to acknowledge me. :shrug:
If i asked you "why is my engine misfiring? I changed all the plugs except the last two". Would it not be ok for you to say "well, why didnt you change the last two?"
Now if you did ask me that and I said "god! you're an azzhole. Why do you have to be so argumentative?" and im assuming you'd be wondering why in the hell you tried to acknowledge me. :shrug:
IHPowerstroke7.3
New member
Maybe the slip yoke in the rear drive shaft needs to be lubed? I know mine does in my super duty, its giving me a "slop" feeling in the driveline.
Dont use grease. No tubed grease will last. You need ptfe paste. Ford sells a light blue one that is "money in the bank, show me what you drink".
Supposedly "super lube" grease is ptfe but im not sure id take that as gospel. Maybe check into it.
IHPowerstroke7.3
New member
No worries there, I know the stuff you're talking about. I'm a diesel tech at the local dealer, just haven't got to it yet. Spent the last few months getting it back looking respectable again after being rear ended.
IHPowerstroke7.3
New member
Comes in a tube now like the caliber grease does. I had an old tin of it until recently haha. To be honest I couldn't tell ya the price but I'm sure it'll be cheaper on that side of the border.
Well, the German came out in me.
I have only had my truck a little over a year, 1st diesel and 1st truck. In that time, it's come a long way with the help of many on the forums. I will say I'm grateful and appreciate the help. I have never been in a manual OBS, so I have no prior experience. I purchased the truck based on my needs and research. Be for the research, I was going to go with a 2003 Dodge Cummings 3/4 ton in Texas. In the end, I "dodged" that one.
I have about 80 percent of the truck do list finished. Next year (warm in Wisconsin), it will get a steering box (which?) and the engine internals freshened (compression ~360). I know that is not terrible compression, I just want everything (their is that word) shored up AND I just need to look inside (German).
As for the drive train slope. A guy PMed me and mentioned a few possibilities, one being the clutch springs. That is my suspect now based on how it feels. My truck was ordered with a Ford heavy duty clutch. I have not found info on what exactly qualifies as an HD clutch to Ford that year? It works great so far.
When I stated I had EVERYTHING done EXCEPT the transmission and tcase, I meant EVERYTHING. I just don't have the time to state every detail or aspect in every question.
So far; I had the front and rear ends completely rebuilt and regeard by the top 4x4/off road shop in my area. I had both drive shafts rebuilt; new u-joints, new slip joints, new paint and balanced. Every ball joint, tie rod end and leaf spring bushing has been replaced. The transmission and tcase don't leak, they sound and "feel" fine, so they just got the synthetic oil changed. So in the end, I just want to make sure the slop I have is "normal" (lack of a better word)?
In the middle of January, I will be pulling our boondock camper out to Arizona for a month or so. I always take my hefty tool bag along, because I like to tinker when I have nothing better to do. I just want to do everything I can to prevent any major issues.
I thank everyone again for the help and advice and hope for some tolerance with an old German?
I have only had my truck a little over a year, 1st diesel and 1st truck. In that time, it's come a long way with the help of many on the forums. I will say I'm grateful and appreciate the help. I have never been in a manual OBS, so I have no prior experience. I purchased the truck based on my needs and research. Be for the research, I was going to go with a 2003 Dodge Cummings 3/4 ton in Texas. In the end, I "dodged" that one.
I have about 80 percent of the truck do list finished. Next year (warm in Wisconsin), it will get a steering box (which?) and the engine internals freshened (compression ~360). I know that is not terrible compression, I just want everything (their is that word) shored up AND I just need to look inside (German).
As for the drive train slope. A guy PMed me and mentioned a few possibilities, one being the clutch springs. That is my suspect now based on how it feels. My truck was ordered with a Ford heavy duty clutch. I have not found info on what exactly qualifies as an HD clutch to Ford that year? It works great so far.
When I stated I had EVERYTHING done EXCEPT the transmission and tcase, I meant EVERYTHING. I just don't have the time to state every detail or aspect in every question.
So far; I had the front and rear ends completely rebuilt and regeard by the top 4x4/off road shop in my area. I had both drive shafts rebuilt; new u-joints, new slip joints, new paint and balanced. Every ball joint, tie rod end and leaf spring bushing has been replaced. The transmission and tcase don't leak, they sound and "feel" fine, so they just got the synthetic oil changed. So in the end, I just want to make sure the slop I have is "normal" (lack of a better word)?
In the middle of January, I will be pulling our boondock camper out to Arizona for a month or so. I always take my hefty tool bag along, because I like to tinker when I have nothing better to do. I just want to do everything I can to prevent any major issues.
I thank everyone again for the help and advice and hope for some tolerance with an old German?
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