Dual or single steering stabilizer

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The track bar and drag link being parallel and the same length have a lot to so with it, but it's not everything. It could be Caster, it could be slop in any one of the ball jojnts/bushings/wheel bearings, could be a tire separating and causing it to grab the road funny. Theresprobably more, but it's too early to think right now...


I agree with everything you said. I was just adding another condition. The track bar cured my problem when everything else was good. Then again I am running a true 8” lift up front and the OP probably doesn’t have the issue to the extent I did.


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Twitchit

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When these trucks get lifted, the caster goes to just about zero or even negative. You can notice it at 50 mph. It has a bit of a shake like a tire out of balance also most people say it feels like its coming from the rear.its actually coming from the front some people have called it super duty hop. If you don't have it then your caster must be alright. If you do experience it, the sell upper ball joint bushings with more adjustment.
 

Jonnydime

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When these trucks get lifted, the caster goes to just about zero or even negative. You can notice it at 50 mph. It has a bit of a shake like a tire out of balance also most people say it feels like its coming from the rear.its actually coming from the front some people have called it super duty hop. If you don't have it then your caster must be alright. If you do experience it, the sell upper ball joint bushings with more adjustment.
then why do bone stock long bed trucks do it?
 

Twitchit

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Because they rolled off the factory floor with very little caster. Some brand new trucks have it some don't. It's like they pushed the limit to roll back the caster to make it easier for the steering parts. If your truck does have it, it will wear out a steering stabilizer in no time.
 

Lt.Dan

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Nailed it ^ caster has everything to do with how a truck drives. More important than toe or camber. These trucks from the factory came with 2-4*, which once lifted can be close or past 0 (like stated above). I have my obs set to 8*, and it drives like a dream with one finger down the highway, just a little tougher at lower speeds.

When building a street truck I like to have caster around 7-9*, offroad or racetrucks I set to 10-14*. And just for references, bmws and Mercedes are always set to 12*+.
 

Twitchit

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Yep! I run my CJ5 at about 10 deg. Tracks straight down the road. How did you get 8 out of adjustable ball joint bushings? I didn't know they went that high. I think I put 4 deg. On mine and it drove great. Then I lifted the truck with 2.5" in front and 4" in the rear. My super duty hop came back and I thought I was going to have to put adjustable radious arms on it. Now I'll start looking for bushings again.
 

Twitchit

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For those of you who ddont know what it is, right at 50mph it feels like your tire is out of balance. 49:eek:k. 50: shakes a little.
 

lincolnlocker

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Yeah, me too.

I'm technically running triples...

Rough Country and Stock. I like the newer RC kit, much nicer than the old ones.


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That's how my 12 was. Now i have all 3 shocks as rc.. so tripple RC. All the same shock too. Large diameter rod too.
How is the quality of rough country products?

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Surprisingly very nice for the price. Bit when these wear out ill replacement all 3 with fox..

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curtis270

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For those of you who ddont know what it is, right at 50mph it feels like your tire is out of balance. 49:eek:k. 50: shakes a little.

so this is caused by an alignment issue? im experiencing this exactly and was wondering what was causing it.
 

Twitchit

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so this is caused by an alignment issue? im experiencing this exactly and was wondering what was causing it.

yes! that is exactly what it is caused by. if you have a stock truck try caster bushings for your upper ball joints. You can do them yourself. Good alignment shops will be able to do them. (you will have to specify to add 2 deg or so of caster). If they say it can't be done then don't give them a dime and find an alignment shop that knows which end of the truck is the front. I have seen guys throw money at after market parts trying to fix this problem. Most guys go for dual steering stabilizers. it calms it down then ends up wearing out expensive stabilizers. You have to fix the geometry first. My truck is lifted a little . because of that I have to go to adjustable radius arms. I am already running the maximum ball joint bushing which fixed the shaking when my truck was stock. when I went to a mild raise then it came back and the next step for me was to go to either radius arm drop brackets or radius arms with caster adjustment. hope this helps.
 

lincolnlocker

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My 15 is set at factory alignment specs and i have a duel dual steering stabilizer setup and the same shock as the dual stabilizer setup in the factory position and i just went almost 15k miles without rotating the tires for the first time in the history of me owning a superduty having to rotate every 5k miles to combat the cupping of the tires that i have now in that 15k mile mark.

live life full throttle
 

Daddy454

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So,I kinda put the cart before the horse here,and now I have a couple ??.
2019 F250 6.7,2.5 Ready Lift,35s on stock 18s.....I installed the Carli caster bushings from reading threads here and elsewhere-had a TINY shimmy from the front at 50ish(before,not after)...like barely.Just recently bought the Keldermann dual stabilizer,mostly beacause the stock one is....not good.I realize I may have put more $$$ into this than I needed to,but,I'm not creating more problems down the road by going this route before it was "necessary" am I?
 

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