dual sumps for dual pumps???
- Thread starter rat49f6
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SIX_OHH
In the Brig (Banned)
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What you using for fuel line?
A few things:
I can not see any real benefits to dual sump for the dual pumps. Beyond that you will now have two hose and fittings hanging low asking to get tore off and dump your whole tank before you can get out of the truck. Same goes for cutting into the poly tank in two places on the same end or side. More chance of leaks and weakness. A 5/8 hose and fitting will flow so much more fuel than you could ever dream of using and way way more than those two pumps will ever need.
I do not know the internal specs of the 6.0 pumps. Check if they have check ball or valves on the outlets. If not you need them. Not only to prevent loop back during a failure but it can help flow balance and reduce pressure pulses.
Consider the placement of some cut off valves to allow for mess free filter changes.
When looking at your final filter make sure to notice what the filter micron rating is for. Nominal, Absolute, single or multi pass? Most accurate numbers will be its actual beta ratio. You want as close to 2 mics and 99.98% as possible but with proper flow rate capacity.
Take the WIX NAPA listed on the chart they only have a total of 5mic nominal (50% per pass). That could be 8 absolute not sure but its sure not 5 or below.
Most pumps list their maximum flow rates @ free flow or zero psi outlet pressure and no inlet vacuum.
Maximum working pressure usually is at a significantly reduced flow rate compared to its maximum or free flow rate.
I am not sure how they are attaining there max flow and pressure rates on that chart.
But a 4 bar maximum operating pressure is only 58 psig Consider the maximum for the 7.3 pumps is 100 psi or almost 7 bar. But I assume this is going on a 6.0 Liter Kind of had me thrown with it being in the 7.3 forum. It maybe that 6.0 do not need the flow pressure 7.3s run with larger injectors. Maybe thats the flow rate at that pressure in which case is plenty.
With the braided hose pick up some rolls of clear heat shrink tube. The thicker kind works well. You can slide that over the SS braided hose before you install the hose ends. That will address rubbing wear SS. Looks great but smooth.
I can not see any real benefits to dual sump for the dual pumps. Beyond that you will now have two hose and fittings hanging low asking to get tore off and dump your whole tank before you can get out of the truck. Same goes for cutting into the poly tank in two places on the same end or side. More chance of leaks and weakness. A 5/8 hose and fitting will flow so much more fuel than you could ever dream of using and way way more than those two pumps will ever need.
I do not know the internal specs of the 6.0 pumps. Check if they have check ball or valves on the outlets. If not you need them. Not only to prevent loop back during a failure but it can help flow balance and reduce pressure pulses.
Consider the placement of some cut off valves to allow for mess free filter changes.
When looking at your final filter make sure to notice what the filter micron rating is for. Nominal, Absolute, single or multi pass? Most accurate numbers will be its actual beta ratio. You want as close to 2 mics and 99.98% as possible but with proper flow rate capacity.
Take the WIX NAPA listed on the chart they only have a total of 5mic nominal (50% per pass). That could be 8 absolute not sure but its sure not 5 or below.
Most pumps list their maximum flow rates @ free flow or zero psi outlet pressure and no inlet vacuum.
Maximum working pressure usually is at a significantly reduced flow rate compared to its maximum or free flow rate.
I am not sure how they are attaining there max flow and pressure rates on that chart.
But a 4 bar maximum operating pressure is only 58 psig Consider the maximum for the 7.3 pumps is 100 psi or almost 7 bar. But I assume this is going on a 6.0 Liter Kind of had me thrown with it being in the 7.3 forum. It maybe that 6.0 do not need the flow pressure 7.3s run with larger injectors. Maybe thats the flow rate at that pressure in which case is plenty.
With the braided hose pick up some rolls of clear heat shrink tube. The thicker kind works well. You can slide that over the SS braided hose before you install the hose ends. That will address rubbing wear SS. Looks great but smooth.
V-Ref
Active member
I agree with the intent of above for sure...Simplicity is king.
But I'm a fan of sumps. The benefits outweighed the negatives for me...but I believe one sump would supply your two pumps to their hearts content, without double the sump installation fun, and double the pre pump connections/junctions to make/keep trouble free.
I just pinch the hose between the pre pump filter and sump when changing the filters....probably not EPA approved, but I don't lose more than a squirt or two of fuel doing it this way. The positive head pressure provided by a sump makes priming the system a one key cycle event after a filter(s) change.
No way to get around the ground clearance issue...if you're a rock crawler or frequent off roader...or just look at your fuel tank skid plate...if it's got scratches on it...a sump probably isn't a good idea. TSD has a pretty dang low profile sump FWIW.
Good luck.
SkySki Jason
New member
This truck has some serious ground clearance issues...
Rat, are you still gonna be able to put a significant skid plate under the whole tank?
:whs: Good advice Tarm!! The SS hose can/will wear a hole in ANYTHING it touches...
Whats ground clearance?
yeah I'm gonna make the top of the tank be right under the bed floor... And the full be able to have the tank over the frame not in it...
Do you guys think nylon braided hose would be ok from tank to the fire wall
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yeah I'm gonna make the top of the tank be right under the bed floor... And the full be able to have the tank over the frame not in it...
Do you guys think nylon braided hose would be ok from tank to the fire wall
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SkySki Jason
New member
Ground clearance - The space between the earth and the bottom of the truck...
Not everyone goes to as much trouble as you to ELIMINATE this!!!
Actually, I'm not sure a skid plate is entirely necessary - since nothing big enough to do any damage is likely to make it under the truck in the first place!
Have you considered hard lines? 3/8" alum tubing is about $1/ft and you could use a compression to JIC adapter and push-lok hose (Parker 801) to go to sump and pump... FWIW, I've had this alum tubing on my fuel systems for a total of 230k miles without any issues. (www.mcmaster.com)
Not everyone goes to as much trouble as you to ELIMINATE this!!!
Actually, I'm not sure a skid plate is entirely necessary - since nothing big enough to do any damage is likely to make it under the truck in the first place!
Have you considered hard lines? 3/8" alum tubing is about $1/ft and you could use a compression to JIC adapter and push-lok hose (Parker 801) to go to sump and pump... FWIW, I've had this alum tubing on my fuel systems for a total of 230k miles without any issues. (www.mcmaster.com)
I would not use alum anywhere openly exposed. Ideally you want steel over all but for sure in exposed areas. A stick/ branch even heavy snow that gets up under the truck would be enough to rip alum tube apart. Now along the inside channel of the frame or on top of the motor or where you could protect it. That stands a better chance. But lets face it the reason we all like using alum is the same reason its not the best choice. Its easy to bend and shape and costs the least including the install kits compared to steel.
Steel braided from the tanks to the frame rails then do what you want until you get to engine then a section of hose between frame and engine and back to whatever.
Steel braided from the tanks to the frame rails then do what you want until you get to engine then a section of hose between frame and engine and back to whatever.
