EBPV delete how?

[dsberman94]

ive looked around a little bit and i haven't found anything that helps me do the EBPV butterfly delete. what do i need to get. i just read performance truck products has the part for the exhaust side of the turbo without the butterfly in it but what else do i need to do? does riffraff have that small plug so that it doesn't throw the softcode? im just not sure how to go about this without being a welder or knowing someone who can.

 

[ToMang07]

ive looked around a little bit and i haven't found anything that helps me do the EBPV butterfly delete. what do i need to get. i just read performance truck products has the part for the exhaust side of the turbo without the butterfly in it but what else do i need to do? does riffraff have that small plug so that it doesn't throw the softcode? im just not sure how to go about this without being a welder or knowing someone who can.

IIRC FTE has a good write-up with pics, but the gist is remove the turbo, (New o-rings) remove the turbo outlet (after disconnecting it from the pedestal; pedestal will need to be plugged or replaced with a non-EBPV model) you grind off the pins holding the flapper in place, remove the flapper, remove the pins, then one side the rod will slide out. You then have to install a freeze plug. Reinstall.

 

[bruce]

easiest way is to buy a high flow outlet. prolly one of those and a non ebpv pedestal in he classifieds

 

[ToMang07]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tipstricks/gutebpv.php3

 

[dsberman94]

I can't link the things I found but I think I found the high flow outlet and the non ebpv pedestal. On their site. I know I could buy used but I would rather just buy new to make sure there's nothing wrong with them. If I want everything to come in the kit for bellowed uppipes where should I get them from? I don't want to go hunting for nuts and bolts.

 

[littleredstroker]

save your $....

I cut the butterfly out, welded the ends with the rod in it so it wouldn't come out, pulled the pedestal, gutted it, and tapped the whole. used a pipe plug and done...

 

[Powerstroke1098]

I did the EXACT same procedure as littleredstroker with no issues.


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[Powerstroke1098]

Use a 1/4 NPT on the pedestal.


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[dsberman94]

ill have to see which route i want to go. if i sell this truck i want to be able to return it to completely stock if needed or wanted by the next owner. ive kept everything ive taken off it so far. im doing international bellowed up pipes at the same time and im gonna grab the little $30 thing from riffraff soon so i can unplug it and not get the soft code. i hate the hissing in the morning when its cold. i think my neighbors hate me enough as it is without listening to that 10-20 minutes in the morning. city life sucks.

 

[GreenF350]

I bought the high flow outlet and the non-EBPV for mine. The actuator in the pedestal was leaking really bad on mine and it seemed like a clean fix at the time. If I recall correctly I just left the harness plugged in and left the electrical part of the actuator laying in the intake valley to keep from getting a code from it.
-Aaron

 

[TRUBBS]

honestly, i HIGHLY doubt when you sell it the purchaser is going to ask/notice or even care that its gone. if you put it back on for him, he will just be removing it again the fallowing winter IMO.

I gutted the ped and tig welded the hole, (honestly didnt even think about tap/plugging it.)

 

[GreenF350]

i hate the hissing in the morning when its cold. i think my neighbors hate me enough as it is without listening to that 10-20 minutes in the morning. city life sucks.

It may or not be an issue to you, but I have borrowed a friends truck that has a functioning EBPV in the winter here (20's-30's at the coldest) and his truck warms up noticeably quicker than mine with the EBPV deleted. There MAY be more going on there since it is two different trucks, but I can let mine warm up for five minutes and then drive about 10 miles before mine gets to operating temp when it's 30* out, his will just about be up to operating temps with the 5 minute warmup and driving out of the subdivision. I can only imagine if I still lived up north and it was down in the single digits!
-Aaron

 

[dsberman94]

doesn't really matter to me. i start driving when the oil temp gets to 80 now and with the block heater plugged in its almost there anyway. remote start will be going on after the holidays and that will make life much better with it.

 

[dsberman94]

honestly, i HIGHLY doubt when you sell it the purchaser is going to ask/notice or even care that its gone. if you put it back on for him, he will just be removing it again the fallowing winter IMO.

I gutted the ped and tig welded the hole, (honestly didnt even think about tap/plugging it.)

im not worried about them knowing about it or not im worried about my time and money into it. if they say i only want to pay this much and its way below what i want for it then im gonna say ok well then these parts are coming off and ill sell the parts to make up some of the difference. thats why ive kept everything. So if someone comes along to buy it and says i don't need any of that and wants it back to stock i can do that and sell it. in the end i would rather not do that but if i have to then i have the ability.

the reason is that from my past experience buying a few vehicles i hate having something with aftermarket work done to it that i didn't do. i don't know how well its done or if its to my satisfaction and im sure others feel the same way. thats why i bought this truck. only thing it had was a chip and junk monitor. everything else was stock and it turned out things weren't done to my satisfaction.

 

[littleredstroker]

im not worried about them knowing about it or not im worried about my time and money into it. if they say i only want to pay this much and its way below what i want for it then im gonna say ok well then these parts are coming off and ill sell the parts to make up some of the difference. thats why ive kept everything. So if someone comes along to buy it and says i don't need any of that and wants it back to stock i can do that and sell it. in the end i would rather not do that but if i have to then i have the ability.

the reason is that from my past experience buying a few vehicles i hate having something with aftermarket work done to it that i didn't do. i don't know how well its done or if its to my satisfaction and im sure others feel the same way. thats why i bought this truck. only thing it had was a chip and junk monitor. everything else was stock and it turned out things weren't done to my satisfaction.

so you can just take the plug out, and look around for a stock butterfly valve... they are everywhere. spend 50$ instead of 350

 

[V-Ref]

It may or not be an issue to you, but I have borrowed a friends truck that has a functioning EBPV in the winter here (20's-30's at the coldest) and his truck warms up noticeably quicker than mine with the EBPV deleted. There MAY be more going on there since it is two different trucks, but I can let mine warm up for five minutes and then drive about 10 miles before mine gets to operating temp when it's 30* out, his will just about be up to operating temps with the 5 minute warmup and driving out of the subdivision. I can only imagine if I still lived up north and it was down in the single digits!
-Aaron

Not to take away from your experience...or doubting you are all...but what are you monitoring to determine the truck is warmed up?

I can tell you from direct personal side by side experience it takes a bone stock split shot stock turbo truck vs a 200% nozzle 67, 71 and 76mm inducer turbo'd truck the same distance within a mile of each other to reach the same Android Torque EOT...given the same starting conditions.

I'd suspect a oil cooler or cooling system issue (thermostat, radiator, etc) on one of those two trucks is causing the big split you're seeing.

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[GreenF350]

Not to take away from your experience...or doubting you are all...but what are you monitoring to determine the truck is warmed up?

I can tell you from direct personal side by side experience it takes a bone stock split shot stock turbo truck vs a 200% nozzle 67, 71 and 76mm inducer turbo'd truck the same distance within a mile of each other to reach the same Android Torque EOT...given the same starting conditions.

I'd suspect a oil cooler or cooling system issue (thermostat, radiator, etc) on one of those two trucks is causing the big split you're seeing.

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No worries, that's why I said there "MAY be more going on there". Just sharing the experience. I was monitoring engine oil temp from the OBDII port (on a Scangauge) for both trucks and considering 170* "warmed up". My truck has always taken a long time to get that warm though, even in the summer. Usually runs between about 189* and 210-215* EOT depending on the season when FULLY warmed up.
-Aaron