Engine replacement.

[Lipka101]

I have a friend that bought a 6.7 that needs a new engine and He asked me to do the swap. I’m not real familiar with these trucks so I’m looking for some input. He’s getting a long block from ford. How long is does the service manual say this job should take? Pull the cab or pull the front clip off? Anything else I need to know? Is there a good manual or a write up on this job hanging around the internet?


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[gotchadollar]

Cab Removal.pdf

 

[lincolnlocker]

Cab Removal.pdf

If that was supposed to be a link. It isnt clickable

live life full throttle

 

[sootie]

I do it frequently. Quite easy if you lift the cab. Should be two days work.

 

[Lipka101]

Thanks for the help guys. I got the motor swapped and truck is running but now I have a couple other issues I could use some clarification on. It has long crank/hard start, no power, 10lbs boost max, rough/shaking idle that clears up with throttle, and the *** is clogged from the driving the truck with a dead cylinder.

The truck is a 2011, it has a brand new long block from ford. The old turbo had some shaft play so we decided to replace it with a 2017 turbo while the cab was up. The first question is, does it need a reflash or a tune for the new turbo? I have a turbo/boost performance code that comes back on startup.
Second, I have code P0335, CKP sensor circuit. The new motor came with a new sensor. I tried a reset on the crank sensor tables with a snap on scanner to no avail. I think this is causing the rough idle and lack of power. Tach also flutters a bit and any monitor shows 0 rpm at any throttle position. Any info on diagnosing this would be helpful. I’m going out now to check the sensor and wiring harness for any damage.

I know I should just ****** and tune the truck but I tried to do a manual regen using the snap on scanner and the exhaust temps wouldn’t get above 350 and couldn’t complete the regen. Any idea why? The crank position sensor messing with something?

Injectors all look good according to a contribution balance test.


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[sootie]

You need to program the new injector codes to the truck for starters(unless you used the old injectors in the same holes they came out of). That could be part of your rough idle. Yes need a new flash for the new turbo. You will never get it to run correctly with emissions equipment intact. That plugged dpeff is causing a good chunk of the issues you are describing

 

[6.0 Tech]

Did you put the crank tone wheel on? It sits behind the flex plate, easy to miss. Does nit come with the,new motor. That will cause a long crank. And as sootie said, the injectors need programmed to the computer, unless the originals were reinstalled in the cylinders they were pulled from

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[Lipka101]

Did you put the crank tone wheel on? It sits behind the flex plate, easy to miss. Does nit come with the,new motor. That will cause a long crank. And as sootie said, the injectors need programmed to the computer, unless the originals were reinstalled in the cylinders they were pulled from

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I was just checking out the old motor and found the tone ring before I read this. FML. I used the original injectors. Thanks guys.


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[Lipka101]

You need to program the new injector codes to the truck for starters(unless you used the old injectors in the same holes they came out of). That could be part of your rough idle. Yes need a new flash for the new turbo. You will never get it to run correctly with emissions equipment intact. That plugged dpeff is causing a good chunk of the issues you are describing

It won’t run correctly with emissions intact even with a new flash?


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[sootie]

It won’t run correctly with emissions intact even with a new flash?


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Soot loading is different. you will have increased regens etc

Will take a phenomenal amount of live tuning to get it right.

Everything is different calibration wise.

 

[Lipka101]

Soot loading is different. you will have increased regens etc

Will take a phenomenal amount of live tuning to get it right.

Everything is different calibration wise.

Good info. Thanks.


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[webb06]

Did you put the crank tone wheel on? It sits behind the flex plate, easy to miss. Does nit come with the,new motor. That will cause a long crank. And as sootie said, the injectors need programmed to the computer, unless the originals were reinstalled in the cylinders they were pulled from

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Thinking the same thing. Tone ring missing. Looks like you get to pull the trans now


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[Lipka101]

Thinking the same thing. Tone ring missing. Looks like you get to pull the trans now


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Yep. It’s done. Runs great. Thanks for the help guys


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[Dieselguy69]

Have the same problem. Tone ring on swapped CKP checked wiring found 0 RPM on the engine speed pid and when I checked the wiring, found a steady 5 volts on the #3 CKP signal wire. Backprobed the ECM, (unplugged) and the CKP puts out a signal. almost sounds like ECM died.

 

[20156point7]

I recently replaced my engine by myself in my garage. It's actually quite easy to pull the engine without removing the cab. Pull the front clip/radiator stack and bumper. pop the 4 front cab bolts out and jack the cab up 4 inches just enough to get a 4x4 block in to hold it up. This gives you plenty of room to manueve the engine out. I pulled the turbo and made a plate with a hook to screw down into the pedestal bolts. Took the tractor and chain and removed and installed the engine. Hardest part of the job was probably waiting for parts. Download a good manual to get procedures and check torque specs of everything. It took me a couple months just working on it a few hours here and there. and was my first time ever pulling a 6.7. Id definitely do it again and save the money. That first crank after the rebuild sure was nerve wracking to say the least tho