Favorite 6.4 Pouring oil...HELP Please

raleighstroke

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So thats how you have to spell it for it not to be profanity...no it is not deeleted that I am aware of...I bought it used a while back and have made no modifications...I am seeing turbo rebuild kits for $180ish and I am thinking about ordering one...is this smart or not so smart?
 

sootie

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I would get rid of the emissions equipment as fast as possible. It's cancer to your motor.

For how cheap good used turbos sets are, I would never mess with a rebuild.
 

Wizbangdoodle

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I rebuilt my turbos with a kit about 10k ago. All is well. Just take your time and check for other issues when you have it apart.
 

raleighstroke

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any advice on what kit you went with and any instructions of some sort out there? what emmissions components should i be deeeleting at this time?
 

Wizbangdoodle

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any advice on what kit you went with and any instructions of some sort out there? what emmissions components should i be deeeleting at this time?

I used the Rotomaster rebuild kits. There's 1 for the high side and 1 for the low. When it comes right down to it, there's not much to rebuilding them. Just disassemble in order, remembering which parts go in which direction. Use assembly lube and don't rush things. I tried to make a video during my rebuild, but my camera wasn't cooperating.

As far as deeleeting, get rid of Dee Pee Eff, EGR and the coolers. It might be more than you want to spend right now, but just bite the bullet and cry only once.
 

f350guy

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With that much oil all over, I would consider flushing your IC out and installing new IC boots in the event your charge side is saturated too.
 

6.4f350

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IMG_1050.jpg

Your turbo is done, and if your EPA mandated exhaust components weren't before, they certainly are now. I'd find a way to make those fall off your truck and grab a set of turbos... you'll be back up and running in no time.
 

raleighstroke

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anyone know how to break the nut loose on the intake side of the low pressure turbo after you have it off?
 

raleighstroke

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so i figured it out. I wish someone would do a write up on turbo rebuild. If I knew what I was doing I would do it lol. Didnt know it had a reverse thread. So I made a small wrench mark on the aluminum wheel on the intake side. Will this mess things up once its spinning or should I be fine?
 

Wizbangdoodle

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When you say small wrench mark, how small? And where is it at on the impeller? Picture?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

heavydoc

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so i figured it out. I wish someone would do a write up on turbo rebuild. If I knew what I was doing I would do it lol. Didnt know it had a reverse thread. So I made a small wrench mark on the aluminum wheel on the intake side. Will this mess things up once its spinning or should I be fine?

I'm sure you tube has a few ideas if there are none here. I would be surprised if there is no info on the rebuild here.
 

raleighstroke

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So I talked to the people I bought the kit from and showed them a picture of the impeller they said the tool mark looked fine, it is near where then nut goes on. I also have to put a plug in for these guys they are awesome. SP Turboost Company. Check out their website and any questions you have they have techs that will walk through it with you on the phone like you are talking to your best buddy. With that said everything seems to be going smoothly so far. I have questions about the deleetions while I am in here. So I am looking at straight piping and just getting the cap plates for the EGR and one programer that fools everything (*** & EGR) to stock settings. Does this sound like all I should need to get rid of emmisons, ***, and egr?
 

raleighstroke

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Okay folks. I got the turbos rebuilt and and have the truck back together. I did not ****** anything during the process. I am sure most of you know where this conversation is going lol. Fired the truck up and turbo rebuild seems to be fine. No leaks no unusual noises. Problem now lies with the exhaust full of oil. I have a clogged D P F and an exhaust system full of oil. Exhaust codes, D P F code, Reduced Engine Power. I would like to remove it all. Down pipe back, keeping factory size. If I buy the pipe, the tuner that covers removal programs for E G R, D P F, and C A T along with E G R blocking plates should this do the job?
 

raleighstroke

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so you guys have been good to me. I may need to jump to another thread for this one but i thought it could be related to something I did. Truck is up and running fine. No codes or leaks and the turbo sounds like it is brand new. Now the a/c blower is not working. Heat or A/C and nothing. I have the digital unit. Everything appears to be working on the display, I can hear the compressor try and kick on and then nothing. No air moving at all. I was thinking this may have just been bad luck and maybe my blower motor is out or something...Any ideas anything I should check?
 

Wizbangdoodle

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I'd start with fuses and move to my connectors that I disconnected during the turbo work. From there, look for a connector that may have gotten pulled apart inadvertently from the work you just did. Hope this helps.
 

raleighstroke

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so I have checked all the fuses, all good, I obviously had the power disconnected during the turbo repair. It seems to me that I just had a bit of bad luck and that the blower motor has failed. I am having trouble remembering if it blew strong when I fired it back up the first time. I drove it a couple times at night to burn some oil out of the exhaust before I took it out for a real drive :biggun: and I think I had my AC on but turned it off so I could hear everything, turbos and such. Tried to get some AC today and no blower power. If it is on and I am driving I can feel a slight bit of cold air coming out when it is vented outside and not set on circulate, but it does not have the power of the blower behind it. I am thinking of getting a new blower motor plugging it in and see if it works. Any way to test this without buying a new one?
 
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