dietoremain
New member
Thanks y'all I
Fluid vs ATI dampener?
- Thread starter dietoremain
- Start date
First thing the machine shop did was balance the crank with weights to act as rods and pistons. Then they put the south bend flywheel on. In order the match the flywheel they have to put put a harmonic balancer on the front. You can see where there is counter weights on each. Dumb thing is, they put the harmonic balancer on backwards and didn't know why it was off 500 grams. 
oke:
oke:Thought I would update this with my adventure in what should have been such a basic install.
Decided to go ahead and install the Fluid dampener. Slide it on to the initial amount with no trouble engaging the key. Then using a proper dampener install kit started tightening things down. It seemed to take quite a bit of force but I know some of these fit quite tight with some even needing a bit of honing for proper fit. Given this I felt things were fine. Got it till I hit solid resistance. Then looking down at it seemed like it was not sitting flush or even a bit cockeyed. No way I figured as I had checked it when it first started and then after it was about half way on. Grabbed a depth gauge and sure enough the damn thing is not even. Swap over to the dampener puller of which the Fluid dampener uses different threading than the stock one. The ones even in the master kit were too small so off to the store.
Got back pulled the dampener off. Looking at the dampener and the key pathway is all gouged up as if I forced in on way out of line. I knew this was impossible just given how easy it first started. The more I look at this Fluid dampener the more something looked different. But comparing it to the stock one it looks about right. It was then I noticed that it looked way to shiny on teh inside right next to seal. I end up pulling the LPOP cover and sitting right there is the seal. It seems these things have two pieces.
What I figured out was the first seal was in perfect alignment but must have been installed out of line with the rear part so the key pathways were off. Either that or it got rotated before it got to me. Anyways now I had a seal stuck on there with only the small falt sections of the crank behind it to allow an area to pull from. I ended up grinding down the tabs on a pitmanarm puller I think it was to fit and then used it to pull off the seal. So
So not I have a Fluid Dampener that is messed up as well as the seal is out of it. I have hacked up my puller. To wrap it up it looks like I will now end up having to go with the stock balancer and just eat the Fluid Dampener as there is no way I can prove how it actually happened. Sometimes you just have bad days
So just a suggestion to anyone installing a Fluid Dampener make sure to check the full key race way in the dampener to make sure the two parts are in perfect alignment. I would not even want to think what would have happened if I had not caught it and had actually run it that way.
Decided to go ahead and install the Fluid dampener. Slide it on to the initial amount with no trouble engaging the key. Then using a proper dampener install kit started tightening things down. It seemed to take quite a bit of force but I know some of these fit quite tight with some even needing a bit of honing for proper fit. Given this I felt things were fine. Got it till I hit solid resistance. Then looking down at it seemed like it was not sitting flush or even a bit cockeyed. No way I figured as I had checked it when it first started and then after it was about half way on. Grabbed a depth gauge and sure enough the damn thing is not even. Swap over to the dampener puller of which the Fluid dampener uses different threading than the stock one. The ones even in the master kit were too small so off to the store.
Got back pulled the dampener off. Looking at the dampener and the key pathway is all gouged up as if I forced in on way out of line. I knew this was impossible just given how easy it first started. The more I look at this Fluid dampener the more something looked different. But comparing it to the stock one it looks about right. It was then I noticed that it looked way to shiny on teh inside right next to seal. I end up pulling the LPOP cover and sitting right there is the seal. It seems these things have two pieces.
What I figured out was the first seal was in perfect alignment but must have been installed out of line with the rear part so the key pathways were off. Either that or it got rotated before it got to me. Anyways now I had a seal stuck on there with only the small falt sections of the crank behind it to allow an area to pull from. I ended up grinding down the tabs on a pitmanarm puller I think it was to fit and then used it to pull off the seal. So
So not I have a Fluid Dampener that is messed up as well as the seal is out of it. I have hacked up my puller. To wrap it up it looks like I will now end up having to go with the stock balancer and just eat the Fluid Dampener as there is no way I can prove how it actually happened. Sometimes you just have bad days
So just a suggestion to anyone installing a Fluid Dampener make sure to check the full key race way in the dampener to make sure the two parts are in perfect alignment. I would not even want to think what would have happened if I had not caught it and had actually run it that way.
Last edited:
V-Ref
Active member
Well, at least there is one other guy with luck like me! Sorry for your troubles Tim!
You are not kidding. What are the chances!?! I thought at first I was going to have to sacrifice the inner melling gear to use to pry against. Then I was going to use a dremel to cut the seal. But I think modifing the puller to fit the flats then installing the bolt to push against worked out the best. Kind of pissed that the seal was loose enough to actually pull out of the dampener from just removing it as the issue was with the second part. My guess is the seal was not installed correctly or was slightly out of spec and that is the reason for both the misalignment and its separation. Not sure if it could be fixed as I can not see paying much to do so as my main use was to get a smoother idle and anything else would have been just a bonus.
Big Bore
Active member
I'm still trying to figure out why we need one after seeing the rpm chart earlier. I can possibly justify using an ATI on an unbalanced stock block, but if you're balancing the rotating assembly I see no justification for spending the money on one.
My sympathy for your troubles Tarm, Fluidamper def of the list after reading that.
My sympathy for your troubles Tarm, Fluidamper def of the list after reading that.
I run fluidamper with nothing but improvements at all rpm.
All 3500 lol.
Smoother for sure.
I have only been running it for 6months.
The innards of my stock one started to squeeze out after 220k so I figured why not.
I am very pleased with mine.
All 3500 lol.
Smoother for sure.
I have only been running it for 6months.
The innards of my stock one started to squeeze out after 220k so I figured why not.
I am very pleased with mine.
Yep it got rotated slightly so the key pathway was clocked from the other part. That part in you pic which is the outside one was what of course went on without issue. It was when the key hit that second "Seal" or whatever you call it. The key pathway was off the width of the pathway. The key plowed into the side of that part. I guess the force caused the whole thing to start going on cocked. That then bent/deformed the actual cylinder itself. Basically it ruined everything but that seal in your pic and the actual part that holds the viscous fluid.
I have to take most of the blame as I should have looked very carefully to make sure the pathways were lined up but I did not realize it two parts and it was even possible. IMO ignorance is not a valid excuse so its mostly on me as far as the damage caused.
I have to take most of the blame as I should have looked very carefully to make sure the pathways were lined up but I did not realize it two parts and it was even possible. IMO ignorance is not a valid excuse so its mostly on me as far as the damage caused.
dietoremain
New member
Interesting.. Im surprised my thread went this long, I'm still reading to see.. doesnt seem like many use the ATI as much as the fluid...
MadDiesel73
New member
Let me ask this. I had my rotating assembly balanced when I built my engine with the stock damper and stock flexplate. At least I'm pretty sure the flex plate played a part with the balance process. Well that flexplate cracked into 2 pieces, I replaced it with a forged unit. So now that the new fp isn't balanced to the rotating assembly would I gain any better balance by getting an ati unit? But I believe the Sfi flexplate is balanced itself, so would the whole balance issue is void?
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