Ford 7.3 Passenger Bank Dead

NitroJoe

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Understood. I will setup an account to host.

Also I will test:
  1. Remove Chip and start record video
  2. Replace IDM with 'used' unit once it arrives
  3. Compression test passenger side
  4. Report findings
Thanks again everyone. I have homework after work.
 

NitroJoe

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Here are two files.
1. Cold Start - Yes, it is a long hard start, prob due to pass bank being dead.
2. Under VC and injector inspection.

Cold & Injector inspection

My camera work stinks, was trying not to kill my phone or get hurt.

My fuel pressure gauge was going crazy, It is connected to the front head port on pass side. Don't understand how it could be that high, if accurate.

Let me know what you guys think.

All of these links take you to lime wire (hosting site) for the files.

Thanks again, Joe
 

Tiha

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Have you tested fuel pressure someplace before the head? or Other head?

That is too much pressure it would mechanically lock the injectors.
 

NitroJoe

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I tested the bowl pre-filter. I will move the gauge to the post-filter connection and test again, take the return line off, blow it back to the tank, and listen for bubbles.

I do have an FPR rebuild kit that can be installed as well to ensure the spring pressure is not the issue.
 

NitroJoe

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I did bench tests for continuity and ohms before installing, and they passed. I am awaiting the second IDM so I can continue testing.

The fuel bowl return line was disassembled last night. I put 100PSI through it to the tank and got plenty of bubbles. I will reassemble it with a new blue spring and poppet and then test the fuel pressure issue.

Lastly, test new (used) IDM with and without hydra chip. Also, I bought a harbor freight diesel master compression tester to test the passenger side (if I can get their fitting to screw into the head).
 

NitroJoe

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Ok I'll do that once I verify compression. Parts were delayed coming in, now that I have them here is the latest.

New (Used) IDM yields same results. Passenger side dead.

Fuel pressure regulator was rebuilt with new housing, poppet and blue spring. My OTC gauge bounces around but its bouncing between 60-80 which I think is ok given the passenger side is not consuming fuel.

The harbor freight master diesel kit does not work on the glow plug, so I'm getting an adapter so I can compression test that side.
 

NitroJoe

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Wait a sec, I have the OEM (used) one from the driver side before I replaced it and it worked. I can try that one on the pass side after I compression check. I am running low on funds trying to get this thing going.
 

6.0 Tech

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Wait a sec, I have the OEM (used) one from the driver side before I replaced it and it worked. I can try that one on the pass side after I compression check. I am running low on funds trying to get this thing going.

I doubt it’s compression, it would be very odd to have an entire bank so far down on compression that they won’t fire. Also, if it were that low on compression, you’d have diesel damn near running out of the tailpipe.


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NitroJoe

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I hear you, but I'm running out of options to test.

No codes, everything passes resistance and continuity checks.

I'll swap that UVCH tomorrow night and try to start it again. Am I at the swap injectors side to side stage? Wouldn't I need to replace all the Orings and crush washers again to perform that test? Such a hassle to move around injectors.

Humm.. In theory if I have no codes and unplugged an injector at a time on passenger shouldn't that trigger a code? Maybe I can do that, try to start, check codes, clear them and move to next injector to see if I can get some to fire.
 

6.0 Tech

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I hear you, but I'm running out of options to test.

No codes, everything passes resistance and continuity checks.

I'll swap that UVCH tomorrow night and try to start it again. Am I at the swap injectors side to side stage? Wouldn't I need to replace all the Orings and crush washers again to perform that test? Such a hassle to move around injectors.

Humm.. In theory if I have no codes and unplugged an injector at a time on passenger shouldn't that trigger a code? Maybe I can do that, try to start, check codes, clear them and move to next injector to see if I can get some to fire.

For a quick test not o ringing the injectors would be fine, as long as there aren’t any that are damaged. I wouldn’t run them for much longer than a couple trips around the block though personally. If the fault is internal in the injector, on the electrical side, unplugging them one at a time would work. Also when running it with the valve cover off check oil spillage from the injectors, and make sure it’s roughly the same as the other side, again, having 4 bad injectors and all 4 ending up in the same bank is damn near impossible, but still a thing to check.


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