Ford 7.3 Passenger Bank Dead

NitroJoe

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I have not tested PCM to IDM harness.

IDM harness to injectors tested fine. If I don't make headway this weekend, I will seriously consider shipping PCM, IDM, and hydra to dtc for testing.
 

6.0 Tech

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I did a couple of posts back. It's showing 6-10 volts during firing for both driver and passenger sides. Apparently you need an oscilloscope to see the waveform for the 120v because it happens so fast. What I read anyway.

Is that an accurate statement?

Yeah, that’s probably right, can’t say I’ve ever had to actually test it, so not sure. Must’ve missed where you tested that, my bad. If it’s reading the same on both sides, it’s probably good.

Now, really stupid question, as I have seen this a couple times, so don’t take offense to it, but your valve cover gasket/ucc harness aren’t upside down are they? If that is the case, the injectors will fire, but not when they’re supposed to, so you’ll have that bank misfiring. It also won’t see any faults with the injectors or anything, so won’t throw codes.


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NitroJoe

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hahahah I never actually checked that, but both my connectors are on top and that should be the upside, but I will verify.

A bit of BETTER NEWS!

After last night's correspondence I rage bought an amazon (yes I know not a ford product) engine harness.

I swapped it out tonight and went through all the tests before firing. The new harness immediately threw 1,3,5,7 high to low codes. This is with the old UVHC I swapped from the driver side. so, I cleared the codes, unplugged 5 & 7 and reran buzz test, then did the same with 1 & 3. Then I plugged all back in, and they came back clean.

I started the truck and got the same result. No codes, no mis fire, no contribution no heat. I got a miffed and rapped the throttle a couple of times and went to heat check the exhaust manifold again and guess what....... I'm starting to get heat. Its way less than driver but I GOT HEAT (with no smoke). Driver was 135, pass 100-120 depending on cylinder.

This is where I stopped because they hydra chip was still not installed.

Here is my thought, maybe carbon built up on the (new) injectors from all this testing. I would like to put the (new) UHVC harness back on, hydra chip in, and then rerun the same test I described earlier. If it passes AND I get heat, button up the valve covers and test around block.

PS I'm still getting 80 PSI on the PRE filter housing port while running even after a new blue spring. I am going to change filter and try again; this seems way high.

Thoughts? -Joe

Happy V Day!
 

NitroJoe

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How long have you ran the engine since the injector swap?
Only about 30 min collectively.

Update. Put new pass UVCH back on and buttoned up motor. Starts and runs after abnormally long crank. No smoke, slight miss, slight diesel smell from exhaust but I'm not crying from fumes.

Put original FP spring back after I cut 1/8 in off and now back in the 50-60 range. Will get a real spring kit later.

Drove it around the neighborhood multiple times. Seems to be getting better each trip. I think it need to be run at this point. Need to insure it first. Idles at 700 RPM, seems to have plenty of power, no codes.

-Joe
 

6.0 Tech

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Only about 30 min collectively.

Update. Put new pass UVCH back on and buttoned up motor. Starts and runs after abnormally long crank. No smoke, slight miss, slight diesel smell from exhaust but I'm not crying from fumes.

Put original FP spring back after I cut 1/8 in off and now back in the 50-60 range. Will get a real spring kit later.

Drove it around the neighborhood multiple times. Seems to be getting better each trip. I think it need to be run at this point. Need to insure it first. Idles at 700 RPM, seems to have plenty of power, no codes.

-Joe

You’re gonna have all sorts of oddball shit happen with air in the oil, long cranks, random misfires, etc. gonna have to get it out and beat the piss out of it, and it ought to run fine. I typically will cruise out of od on the highway at 70ish mph for 5-10 miles, so it’s real high in the rpm, that typically gets the air cleared out.


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Powerstroke Cowboy

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Exactly, air in the system will keep it from running right. Get it out and put some miles on it. The more wide open the better. Get the air out and the oil in.
 

patsmobilepmcs

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now you said both UVCH are brand new my question who did you buy them from? now i had an issue with a set that the gasket and the harness was one pice and when i plugged the truck harness into the connect it was not good. i ended up getting a set from ford that set from ford was the UVCH is separate and plugs into the gasket. can you take a picture of the UVCH so we can see what one you got .
 

patsmobilepmcs

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I did a couple of posts back. It's showing 6-10 volts during firing for both driver and passenger sides. Apparently you need an oscilloscope to see the waveform for the 120v because it happens so fast. What I read anyway.

Is that an accurate statement?
joe, can you take a picture of your UVCH so we can see which one you purchased ?
 

patsmobilepmcs

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if your UVCH does not look like this then you got an aftermarket one and most aftermarket products don't work as good
 

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KBMKVIII

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Just fyi for anyone trying to clear air out of the HPO system and have a simple scanner after opening the system, do the KOER test multiple times. This maxes out the HPOP for 20-30 seconds and saves lots of time and troubleshooting.


‘96 7.3- Precision Turbo 76mm, Carrillos, Colt stg2, BAMF

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'22 CCLB 350 Platinum- Star white, Snow stg 3, Lo-temp therm, fox 2.0s/dual stabilizer, air bags, S&B, 22s/37s
 

NitroJoe

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Thank you for that I will try. The UVCH are Dorman and are the two part.

At this point it needs to be driven before further diagnosing. I need to finish the safety inspection, tag and insure it. Also needs new tires and brakes bled.

I will need 2-4 weeks to accomplish this due to funds. Once complete and 250-300 miles are on the Ex I will reply back with where everything is.

Thank you everyone for the assistance, this group has been amazing with the support and encouragement.

-Joe
 

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