Fresh built 5r110 issues

91turbogsx

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I just recently built a trans, all new clutches, gaskets, seals, etc. Along with a DPC converter. Got it running just yesterday and it moves forward and reverse a couple feet and then just stops. Seems to work much better right after I just start it but after going back and forth a few times it's worse. It'll move slightly with throttle applied but something isn't right. Anyone have any ideas?

Batteries were disconnected for a few hours before start up. It's full of fluid. I pressure tested it and it has pressure although it fluctuates alot in gear up and down about 30 psi +/-. No strange delays from forward to reverse. It just moves a few feet and then stops. No codes either. No loss of pressure when it stops.

Could a certain solenoid cause this issue? I thoroughly cleaned the solenoid body inside and out but reused the solenoids. Any help is appreciated.
 

ncollins64

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I would almost think it may be a solenoid issue. I've heard of some brand new built trans with all new solenoids doing this. Maybe a pro can chime in.
 

Mark Kovalsky

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Get a 0-350 PSI gauge. Install it in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. It has a 1/8" NPT thread. See what the pressure reads when it loses the engagement.
 

91turbogsx

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Get a 0-350 PSI gauge. Install it in the test port on the driver's side of the trans. It has a 1/8" NPT thread. See what the pressure reads when it loses the engagement.

I have a gauge. I'll have to try it again and read the pressure exactly as I don't remember off hand but I know it was over 100 psi and never dropped when it stops. It doesn't necessarily feel like a disengagement. Cause there is still a load on it. Feels like it's binding but it'll work fine for 10 ft and then stop. I'll put it in neutral and back to reverse and the process repeats.
 

91turbogsx

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It bounces around from 110 to 130 psi. I dropped the pan. There is some clutch material in there but the fluid isn't discolored or burnt. I also air tested all the clutches prior to installation and they all applied. I'll probably drop the solenoid body and repeat the test. Unless someone is going to point me elsewhere.
 
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Mark Kovalsky

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OK, I thought when you said it stops that it goes to neutral. Locking up is a different problem. Something is wrong to make the pressures jump like that, but that won't cause it to lock up.

I'm guessing you have a one way clutch installed backwards.
 

91turbogsx

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So I finally disassembled the trans. I noticed one of the sealing rings on the forward hub was damaged upon reassembly and must not have been sealing properly. Could that cause the issue I'm describing Mark?

One way clutches were installed properly.
 

Mark Kovalsky

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If it were going to neutral and just not pulling, then yes, that's the problem. If it is locking up then I don't think this could cause that.
 

91turbogsx

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So I discovered a few solenoids that were being sticky. Swapped in another complete solenoid body that worked fine previously and now the truck moves fine now but has excessive line pressure (240 psi at idle) and a flashing tow haul light which I'm sure is related to the pressure being high. I'll have to pull the code in the morning. Pretty sure I narrowed it down to something solenoid related though.
 

91turbogsx

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Turned out to be a bent pin on the trans harness connector for the latest issue. Replaced the harness and all seems well. Pressure is stable and it moves properly. Looks like it turned out to be a few sticky solenoids.
 

ksieckmann

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I'm having the same issue and symptoms. I also found that if you hurry and toss it in reverse before pressure raises too much that it will go into reverse and move. but if you wait more then a second or two after starting, it will not move in reverse. Is there a way to test solenoids besides checking resistance? Actually check them for being stick? Hate to toss 700+ bucks at solenoids without being certain.
 

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