Fuel lines

JD3020

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The lines on the frame or the engine? Either way why waste your money trying to find Ford hose? Find a local hydraulic store, i perfer Parker, and get some from them. I can get 3/8" Parker 801 for $2.50 a foot, rated for all sorts of fuels and high pressure. Just tell them what size you need and what ratings, and they'll hook you up.
 

Jaredkeller96

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The lines on the frame or the engine? Either way why waste your money trying to find Ford hose? Find a local hydraulic store, i perfer Parker, and get some from them. I can get 3/8" Parker 801 for $2.50 a foot, rated for all sorts of fuels and high pressure. Just tell them what size you need and what ratings, and they'll hook you up.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1377307497.864971.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1377307532.716641.jpg

These lines


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JD3020

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I eliminated those on mine. All the lines are 5/16", EXCEPT the feed line on the engine, its 3/8", which poses a challenge. The return line is easy as its 5/16" on both sides and not under much pressure. The feed side is where it gets tricky. I'm sure that theres a ton of people here that will complain about how i did it, but here's a run-down.

I cut the flared end off the steel lines where those hoses snap on, making them smooth. On the return side i just got some 5/16" hose, slid it on, clamped it, and called it a day. The feed side i used 3/8". I got 4 fuel injection hose clamps, and double clamped it on each end. I really had to tighten them down on the 5/16" line, but so far with my e-fuel i haven't had a single leak.


Actually did the same thing when i threw the e-fuel stuff on. The pump and filter are set-up for 3/8", but again the stock steel line is 5/16". Double clamping each connection with good fuel injection clamps has held up so far with 0 issues.
 

m j

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thats what I thought at first glance but with quick couplers at both ends they have to be the jumpers from the frame to the engine
 

Cody

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thats what I thought at first glance but with quick couplers at both ends they have to be the jumpers from the frame to the engine

That's what they are iirc they list for $175.. Rubber and hose clamps are way cheaper
 

Bobs 7.3

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Go on flea bay theres compression fittings on there that will use a compression fitting on the metal lines after you cut off the dimpled end so there smooth and the other end has a hose barb that the hose will securly clamp to without slipping off. There available for around $14 bucks a piece and they come in 3/8 and 5/16 sizes. youll need 2 of each and use 30r9 fuel injection hose and your set. Ive done 13 of them this way and none have ever slipped off or leaked.
 

JohnT24

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I eliminated those on mine. All the lines are 5/16", EXCEPT the feed line on the engine, its 3/8", which poses a challenge. The return line is easy as its 5/16" on both sides and not under much pressure. The feed side is where it gets tricky. I'm sure that theres a ton of people here that will complain about how i did it, but here's a run-down.

I cut the flared end off the steel lines where those hoses snap on, making them smooth. On the return side i just got some 5/16" hose, slid it on, clamped it, and called it a day. The feed side i used 3/8". I got 4 fuel injection hose clamps, and double clamped it on each end. I really had to tighten them down on the 5/16" line, but so far with my e-fuel i haven't had a single leak.


Actually did the same thing when i threw the e-fuel stuff on. The pump and filter are set-up for 3/8", but again the stock steel line is 5/16". Double clamping each connection with good fuel injection clamps has held up so far with 0 issues.

Did you use Parker 801 hose? according to their website it says: Diesel fuel ONLY if crimped with HY series fittings

I was thinking of using tygon F-4040-A and fuel inj. hose clamps... but the parker kinda looks better... for a few more bucks.
 

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