Are the white radius arms mounted solidly to the front diff ? ie U bolts ?
Full Air ride
- Thread starter Ipkyss
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Are the white radius arms mounted solidly to the front diff ? ie U bolts ?
TrailerHauler
Active member
Me2, have you made any progress on your re creation of the r4 kit?
GTOKILLER
New member
Yes solid a lot like traction bars, O axle wrap. The back mount of the bars is about 6 feet back on the frame with a pivot & huge bushing. I don't understand how there is anymore axle tube pressure then a leaf spring setup??? as far as articulation even Keldermanns 4 link only adj. like 4-6 inches. The only thing that keeps me from moving more then 16-18" is the solid trace bar & the axle roll in the front. I like to keep a degree or two in the negative so I don't get any bump steer.
You are confusing your axle travel with articulation.
Articulation is when the wheel on 1 side is higher than the wheel on the other side.
What happens if you crawl over a 12 or 18" rock with 1 front tire ? Does the other tire stay on the ground ?
Articulation is when the wheel on 1 side is higher than the wheel on the other side.
What happens if you crawl over a 12 or 18" rock with 1 front tire ? Does the other tire stay on the ground ?
GTOKILLER
New member
I know the difference, oh trust me it articulates side to side. It only requires about 18 psi to lift this all the way up but its squishy ( but will articulate very well ) thats Y I have the extention straps that I can run against with more PSI to keep it steady without swaybars. If I were on a articulation ramp just to measure I could simply put 30 PSI in one side & 0 in the other side. It has digital air ride each bag it 100% seprate with 1/2 feeds & dumps so they are quite fast also.
I understand your questioning with out seeing it in person, kinda hard to explain.
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I understand your questioning with out seeing it in person, kinda hard to explain.
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With all due respect, you've built an 8 foot wide swing arm suspension. The only way it can articulate is to bend something. Swing arms, truck frame, U bolts, axle tubes or all three.
That will work well for a while, but sooner or later something is going to fatigue and break. Swing arms, truck frame, U bolts, axle tubes or all three.
Some of the rear axle traction bar setups do the same thing. I don't get them either, but people run them.
That will work well for a while, but sooner or later something is going to fatigue and break. Swing arms, truck frame, U bolts, axle tubes or all three.
Some of the rear axle traction bar setups do the same thing. I don't get them either, but people run them.
GTOKILLER
New member
hmmm. interesting well thanks Ill keep a closer eye on the high stress parts.
It would be really interesting to see some pictures and for you to take some measurements of what happens when one front wheel is about a foot higher than the other.
Are the arms bending ? Are the axle tubes twisting ? What is happening with the frame ?
Are the arms bending ? Are the axle tubes twisting ? What is happening with the frame ?
GTOKILLER
New member
You really got me thinking about it so when I get it out of storage in the spring I am going to articulate it as far as I can & see what breaks!! Ill keep u posted.
Thanks for having an open mind about this. No disrespect to you or your truck. Its a beautiful truck. I've seen it on other forums. And kudos to you for getting air ride working on it.
If articulation is an issue, I have some ideas to get around it.
If articulation is an issue, I have some ideas to get around it.
GTOKILLER
New member
Its all good! Thank you, like I said if you know more then I do Im willing to learn! Your right at first I was not thinking side to side articulation. I want to try & figure out something this year maybe triangulated so I dont get the left to right body shift when I go up & down, it shifts about 5 inches because of the trac bars front & back.
NotStock
New member
That shift is necessary in the front unless you have fully hydraulic steering which isnt legal in many states. If you triangulate the front and run a normal steering setup, you will have horrible bump steer. Going to a heim or a uniball joint on your frame side of your arms will help out with articulation. It will transfer more road vibrations and such though.
GTOKILLER
New member
yea I know, drives so good now but probably not the best setup for extreme off road use haha It goes to the dunes a bit but thats all.
As far as the steering though it will just turn the wheel about 1/2 turn inside but thats just something, I have to live with no matter what if I want to adjust all the time.
As far as the steering though it will just turn the wheel about 1/2 turn inside but thats just something, I have to live with no matter what if I want to adjust all the time.
GTOKILLER
New member
A big heim joint in for the back mount it a pretty good / easy idea though. Its not a 100% fix but would help a little.
I'm not saying I know more than you. I don't know anything about lifted trucks.
All I know is that solidly mounted radius arms = limited articulation.
I know this because I was going to do the same on the rear suspension of my old truck. As a matter of fact, there is one SD rear suspension kit that does just that. So maybe articulation isn't so important ?
I think some photos and measurements would tell us a lot. I'd really appreciate them if you have time.
All I know is that solidly mounted radius arms = limited articulation.
I know this because I was going to do the same on the rear suspension of my old truck. As a matter of fact, there is one SD rear suspension kit that does just that. So maybe articulation isn't so important ?
I think some photos and measurements would tell us a lot. I'd really appreciate them if you have time.
GTOKILLER
New member
Ok cool probably not till april ish depends on our winter.
SSpeeDEMONSS
New member
I never thought if that setup articulating but now that it is brought up I see where there would be binding when trying to articulate. Probably why it doesn't need sway bars.
Garrett
Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
Garrett
Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
GTOKILLER
New member
Yea, either did I until he pointed it out, correct no sway bay since day One I just thought the bags were firm enough
Jason
New member
You know, I read where the OP was saying his compressor runs more than he would like. My Denali (completely different deal, but same issue) has rear air ride, and I can be sitting in a drive thru, with the car running, and shift my weight around, and the compressor will kick on. I know it's on a leveling valve, and when there is downward pressure applied it will kick on to compensate to maintain proper height. BUT I'm tired of it kicking on when I start it to move it out of the garage, or if I take something heavy out of the back, and it sits way ass up til it bleeds off and re-levels. It rides way too soft for my liking, and will be pulling the air springs out, and ordering coil springs from GM to put back there. I had a service air suspension message come on at ~12k miles or so for a day or two then went off and never came back.
I've made up my mind to pull mine out and go to coil springs in the back like every other tahoe/yukon out there, the ride is still very good that way. But, you guys with these air ride setups...do your compressors kick on excessively? I could only imagine what mine would do pulling my 24' enclosed, now that I think back to the times I pulled it with this car.
I've made up my mind to pull mine out and go to coil springs in the back like every other tahoe/yukon out there, the ride is still very good that way. But, you guys with these air ride setups...do your compressors kick on excessively? I could only imagine what mine would do pulling my 24' enclosed, now that I think back to the times I pulled it with this car.
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