elrodalexander73
Member
What dyno proven gains have been found with Gearheads stage 1 camshaft??
GearHead stage 1 cam??
- Thread starter elrodalexander73
- Start date
ghohouston
Active member
your drive pressure ratio will even out which is all around good for everything. you will have less boost and less backpressure (less restriction) because of the new, more efficient cam. i know there is proof of triple digit hp increases from the combination of head porting, cam, and headers on a 7.3. cannot say what JUST the change of a cam would do.
now the people much smarter than me will tell you what i meant to say, lol.
now the people much smarter than me will tell you what i meant to say, lol.
elrodalexander73
Member
I plan on doing some head porting, which charger will match the injectors I have, while I remove the engine to do the camshaft swap, I plan on installing a lower end girdle, main studs, been looking at the Crower Valve springs (are they worth it??) and of course pushrods... Definitely going to T4 Flange, would like to see close to 600 rwhp, when I purchased the injectors I talked with full force about flowing them to 350/200s but my wittle adrenaline I know isn't gonna keep up doh!!
ghohouston
Active member
i would also plan on billet rods. as for valve springs, i see alot of people going with beehive springs now a days, cannot speak for crowers. as for a turbo, are you just wanting some plain old t4 s framed turbo, modded h2e or are you willing to buy a nice ball bearing turbo, like a gtx 4094r, or something of the like?
elrodalexander73
Member
Don't say that word "RODS" ugh 2500 bones, trust me I want to buy them but my better half has demands outside of this project. I rebuilt the engine 30,000 miles ago and had everything balanced, blue printed, I put in ARP head studs, had the block checked, bored blah blah, I know those are the true ticket to long life, I was just hoping to see if I could make 600-650rwhp on a forged bottom end.. I know tuning will go a long way getting it to stay "together" and the enjoyment factor of just a nice daily driver would be cool and be able to pull 2.5 would be cool. I have another block I want to eventually do what needs to be done, but that's a few years out.... Maybe a 3.0 p-pump conv?? Anyways ball park what is a good street turbo that has enough airflow for maybe 2.5 and who knows maybe I'll throw it in a 2.6 class on a sticky track and wait for something to snap doh!
97powerstroke
New member
When installing a girdle and main studs you need to get the mains line bored again cause the studs will tighten the main bearing clearance. If you don't get it line bored there's a good chance of spinning a main bearing cause there isn't enough clearance.
97stoker350
Active member
Forget the girdle and main studs because if Ur not doing rods you won't make enough low end power to need that stuff
elrodalexander73
Member
I was reading a post on here are guys up there in the ohio valley really making 800hp in the 2.5 class already, heck down here in the "clay" (Tennessee/Northern Alabama) belt where pulling tracks are sticky I think the hottest thing I've seen is Adcock farms duramax, which he is pulling in the 2.6 too. Yeah I thought about doing just lower end studs to keep it together at higher rpm.. I will build another engine.. I want to cap it at about 650hp and tame the torque.. The black F350 Crew cab long bed on Full Forces page is pulling 2.6 and last year he really had it together.. I can't remember his name but almost every pull I attended last year he was either 1st or 2nd.. But here again the pulling isn't as competitive yet down here.
97spoolinstroker
New member
Where did you see those post about the guys making 800hp in 2.5
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elrodalexander73
Member
2.5 turbo/injector combo...
