Go fast/make power Fab thread- Lets see your work.

sgleshot

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I use a Pro-Tools 105HD Bender

same here, good old manual style. would be nice to do an electric hydraulic setup but we dont really do alot of bending in the shop once the main chassis is done. If we need to keep re-doing bends its time to change our driving habits. Everything we run is 1.75" .120 wall DOM.
 

zabeard

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same here, good old manual style. would be nice to do an electric hydraulic setup but we dont really do alot of bending in the shop once the main chassis is done. If we need to keep re-doing bends its time to change our driving habits. Everything we run is 1.75" .120 wall DOM.

same here! Im not building full chassis though. I do use only 1.75" .120 DOM though. Its a good size.

Do you use an software or bend on the fly? I just bend on the fly and it works out pretty well once you get in the swing of things.
 

Erikclaw

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I was surprised to see it weighed that much. Was thinking you had an all fiberglass body. Cool build though, I know all about fitting engines not meant to be in the chassis we put them in. I put a LT4 in a 95 chevy 4x4. Took a lot of research to make it run right.
 

sgleshot

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same here! Im not building full chassis though. I do use only 1.75" .120 DOM though. Its a good size.

Do you use an software or bend on the fly? I just bend on the fly and it works out pretty well once you get in the swing of things.

I layed out the cage for the most part on paper, but i mounted the engine and trans first, I knew that over all i wanted to move the engine and trans back 18 inches, and drop it straight down a frogs hair over 12inches, lowering my center of gravity. The bending was pretty easy, we just figured what radius die we had, and how much tube it takes to make a bend, and we were off and running. Ya my trucks a little on the porky side, im shooting to put it on a diet this winter, all aluminum cockpit and firewalls, switch to aluminum wheels by OMF, and if the finances allow switch from the ford motorsports "N" heads to a set of Brodix Track 1's. I cant complain too much, the truck is exactly how I want it and is the safest in the series. A truck isnt very safe in my eyes if ya wreck or roll it hard and then your getting coloring books for christmas the rest of your life.
 

Boostfed

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Just finished up some new additions to our up pipes. Added some schedule 40 stainless to the first 6 inches. We have been having problems swelling the up-pipes at the ball and socket flange on the manifold since removing the bellows so I went with the thickest stainless I could find. Also added V-bands to the manifolds and up-pipes to hopefully get a better seal. Enjoy-

Using the grille to get the cast up to temp before welding.
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Using sand filled buckets to allow the welds to cool super slow.

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Boostfed

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I layed out the cage for the most part on paper, but i mounted the engine and trans first, I knew that over all i wanted to move the engine and trans back 18 inches, and drop it straight down a frogs hair over 12inches, lowering my center of gravity. The bending was pretty easy, we just figured what radius die we had, and how much tube it takes to make a bend, and we were off and running. Ya my trucks a little on the porky side, im shooting to put it on a diet this winter, all aluminum cockpit and firewalls, switch to aluminum wheels by OMF, and if the finances allow switch from the ford motorsports "N" heads to a set of Brodix Track 1's. I cant complain too much, the truck is exactly how I want it and is the safest in the series. A truck isnt very safe in my eyes if ya wreck or roll it hard and then your getting coloring books for christmas the rest of your life.

Brodix's FTMFW!!!

I like coloring..... but- valid point for sure and absolutely sig worthy.
 

ramonfernandez

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You guys are seriously good. You're even better than the local mechanics here. I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
 

sgleshot

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Brodix's FTMFW!!!

I like coloring..... but- valid point for sure and absolutely sig worthy.

speaking of makin sure you build a good cage

http://youtu.be/-U_Pk3iqOGI


had a caliper hang up, lock up the drivetrain, and upon landing with locked up wheels ( a huge no no) it sheared off the sector shaft in the gear box which turned the wheels hard right, shattered the drivers side outter axle, snapped the pass side knuckle, and the momentum of the truck proceded to roll it. Not the most violent roll ive had, but came at the most inconvenient time possible, next day was a big race at our local fair. oh well, back to the drawing board. Parts are on order, should be back up and runnin in a couple weeks, yet there lies the silver lining to all breakage, forced upgrade!! and for those of you that are wondering, that tie rod is solid 1.25" 4340, and every Evolution Machine heim is still straight and true.


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Boostfed

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Goober.... No good.

Speaking of cages, made a little progress on my own turd this past weekend. Gonna try to finish mocking everything up this weekend so i can start dropping it through the floor and welding all my bars around the roof.

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Boostfed

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Gonna try to get my door bars and kidney bars this weekend along with my triangulation from the harness bar to the floor bar. Then, I can finally drop it though the floor and weld everything. Then its time for *HOLYSHATOMGBRBWTFLMAOBBQSMACKTHERUDYSRACETRUCK* the chute mount on the honda.
 
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Boostfed

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lol, just a little excited to get this cage done. Been working on it for about 6 months on the weekends when I have a few hours. Gotta finish the cage before I ever start thinking about doing my turbo and motor mock up so, I'm pretty ready to be done.
 

moose99psd

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18" of front travel and 24" of rear end travel, full 1 3/4 4340 cage, 3" coilovers all the way around with a set of 3" bypasses right along side em. full plated and gusseted 9" and a dana 44 out of a bronco in the front with custom mounts to make it work and cycle properly. one day it will be finished.. not sure when that day will come.. untill then we play with the bronco
 

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