Hard start when warm, easy start when cold. Brand new motor!

Pwnm30rdi3

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Hey guys! Every sensor, part, and piece in my build is brand new.
I've driven 150 miles on my newly rebuilt motor, it runs and drives great besides this start issue.

It takes about 10-20 seconds to start when motor is warm.
My modifications are in my sig(-:

Any help is appreciated!
 
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greenthunder7.3

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sounds to me like a heui leak cuz when the oil is warm and thinner it leaks off but i'm sure someone who is more knowledgable will chime in.
 

ghohouston

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You probably sill have air in your high pressure oil system. Or could have a torn ipr o ring. Those would be my initial thoughts. Have you driven the piss out if it since the rebuild?
 

Pwnm30rdi3

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sounds to me like a heui leak cuz when the oil is warm and thinner it leaks off but i'm sure someone who is more knowledgable will chime in.

I don't really see any leaks under the truck. I have one unknown fuel leak at the front of the truck. It's a cold leak and only collects a penny size amount after sitting in the driveway for 12-24 hours.
 

Pwnm30rdi3

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You probably sill have air in your high pressure oil system. Or could have a torn ipr o ring. Those would be my initial thoughts. Have you driven the piss out if it since the rebuild?

I've hammered the go pedal three or four times for about 5-10 seconds. Besides that I've been driving like a grandpa!
 

loboost

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I've hammered the go pedal three or four times for about 5-10 seconds. Besides that I've been driving like a grandpa!

Open that thing up a few times then report back...I bet there's still air in the hpo system
 

vanderchevy18

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My guess would be a nicked o-ring. When the engine is hot the oil is thinner and the o-rings more malleable. That makes it easier for the oil to seep past the o-ring. That will cause longer crank time because it takes more "effort" to build pressure enough to fire the injectors.
 

CSIPSD

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Guess guess guess guess guess...

Then guess some more...

Have you run a buzz test? Cylinder Cont test? Fuel Pressure? ICP and ICP duty cycle? ICP when cranking? ICP duty cycle when cranking?

Here, I'll try guessing too...

Its your muffler bearings!
 

greenthunder7.3

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i was meaning an internal oil leak not external that would be visible. such as injector o-rings and such that was stated above. sorry for the confusion.
 

POWER-STRUCK

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injector orings/ ipr orings/ bad HPOP. the ipr is the easiest to check first, then pull the valve covers and look for a visual leak around the injectors when running. if no leaks or bad orings are found then suspect/test the HPOP
 

Pwnm30rdi3

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injector orings/ ipr orings/ bad HPOP. the ipr is the easiest to check first, then pull the valve covers and look for a visual leak around the injectors when running. if no leaks or bad orings are found then suspect/test the HPOP

I put 2 injectors in with little oil due to knocking over the quart of oil I had. I guess I could have snagged an o-ring.
I hate pulling off everything to get the valve covers out haha! Looks like that will be my weekend project! Will the oil be super visible when leaking under the valve over? Any other tests I can run?


i was meaning an internal oil leak not external that would be visible. such as injector o-rings and such that was stated above. sorry for the confusion.

That makes sense now! Thanks for clarifying:)

Guess guess guess guess guess...

Then guess some more...

Have you run a buzz test? Cylinder Cont test? Fuel Pressure? ICP and ICP duty cycle? ICP when cranking? ICP duty cycle when cranking?

Here, I'll try guessing too...

Its your muffler bearings!

Have not ran a buzz test, a cylinder cont test, or an icp duty cycle test. I wish I had a scan tool!
Fuel pressure stays steady at 68PSI.

It is probably those muffler bearings... I never put them in after putting the truck back together! Haha
 

Pwnm30rdi3

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Here is a start up video when truck is warm. Now that I have about 300 miles on the truck's new engine, I highly doubt there is any air left in the lines.
Takes anywhere from 4-6 seconds of cranking when warm.

th_IMG_0733_zps84a1b3dc.jpg
 

CSIPSD

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You hate pulling stuff apart...

How dumb are you going to be after pulling it all apart and still not finding the issue.

Do yourself a favor, pick up the Torque app and the blue tooth adapter. Less then $50 bucks and you can do almost everything AE can do...

I'm not trying to be a dick but good lord...
 

rascal

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Here is my guess, check your oil rail plugs when you have the valve covers off. Did you put them in?

Definitely get AE.

Good luck.
 

Pwnm30rdi3

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Here is my guess, check your oil rail plugs when you have the valve covers off. Did you put them in?

Definitely get AE.

Good luck.

The machine shop put all the plugs in for me. Anything special I should look for when pulling the rail plugs out?
I will get a scanner of some sort. Didn't even know Bluetooth OBD readers existed. Thanks.

You hate pulling stuff apart...

How dumb are you going to be after pulling it all apart and still not finding the issue.

Do yourself a favor, pick up the Torque app and the blue tooth adapter. Less then $50 bucks and you can do almost everything AE can do...

I'm not trying to be a dick but good lord...

I hate pulling stuff apart when I've done it 3 or 4 times in one week. Thank you very much... lol
 
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POWER-STRUCK

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crank time wasn't that bad. how hard did you run it to get the air out? beat it like a redheaded step child LOL
 

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