help!! truck shut off wont start

Baker42 · Jul 20, 2014

If there is smoke while cranking check the fuel bowl

97stoker350 · Jul 20, 2014

Has Marty's efuel and 65# fuel pressure it's don't this same thing one other time, it threw cel and died. Turned out to be ipr. Nut is on ipr and motor is not new just new to me. All fuses looked fine but it had never blown a fuse in the 5 years I've owned the truck. It didn't skip a beat the half hour I drove to where I was going. But anyhow it's in the garage now at home now so it's not as pressing. Should have a scanner this week and see just what is going on

TyCorr · Jul 20, 2014

co04cobra said:
You def need to get it on a scanner. Have you checked fuses and relays, ALL fuses and relays? Looked to see if the nut may have fell off the ipr? Have fuel in the bowl ? Or hear your pump running? (I assumed efuel). Those are the main and easy things to check before you get it on a scanner. If not you could literally spend thousands just replacing parts when it could be a $50 part.

Also check your hpop res. see if it's full. It's unlikely that inj Orings will cause a complete no start.

You have seen much more undoubtedly but I had two bad orings on one bank and it loped so frikkin bad that it would die a few times before it would run. Changed them out and back to normal. Whats the deal with frikkin orings lately. My stock injectors never had orings replaced. I put 175/80s in and they were fine. Took my motor out, cleaned it up to fix oil leaks, put it back in with stock injectors with new orings, put the 175/80s in and acter two months, lost two orings. Put stockers back in at some point and lost one on the rear pass side bank. Got 250/200s now and so far so good.

97stoker350 · Jul 20, 2014

It's really discouraging at this point that u spend all this time and money to make something run good and look nice and petty bull**** holds you back. Makes me want a stock 6.7

co04cobra · Jul 20, 2014

TyCorr said:
You have seen much more undoubtedly but I had two bad orings on one bank and it loped so frikkin bad that it would die a few times before it would run. Changed them out and back to normal. Whats the deal with frikkin orings lately. My stock injectors never had orings replaced. I put 175/80s in and they were fine. Took my motor out, cleaned it up to fix oil leaks, put it back in with stock injectors with new orings, put the 175/80s in and acter two months, lost two orings. Put stockers back in at some point and lost one on the rear pass side bank. Got 250/200s now and so far so good.

No doubt that it only takes a few bad ones, and they will cause noticeable issues. Usually just not a 100% no start, it's not impossible, but several other things pop into my head first with a no start.

I've had some odd issues myself lately with O-rings. One set on remand injectors deteriorated so bad in 10K miles it was using and, returning 2 gallons of oil every 10 miles.

I only use motorcraft or APs to try and help with the problem. In the motorcraft bags the directions say to wait 15mins after install on injector, before reinstalling into head. So the o-ring has time to return to normal size. I've wondered if any failures in the past ever come from this.

PSD POWER007 · Jul 20, 2014

All I know, is that I've had oring failure 3 times on my injectors. All three times the truck would start normal with oil temps below about 80* and run pretty good other than calling for a lot more IPR duty. Once the truck was shut down, it would not start again until the oil temps dropped below 80* again. All three times the upper oring ruptured. All three were in different holes. Rumor has it that PIS uses DiPaco rings. I eventually pulled all 8 injectors out and all showed signs of deterioration in under 10k miles. Tim sent me 8 sets of Alliant rings and no problems since. Tim went above and beyond for me. Top notch customer service.

2000wa250 · Jul 21, 2014

So did this issue get resolved?

I guess a bigger question is did the reason for oil leaking out of manifolds ever get resolved? IMO if there really is oil leaking from manifolds, not from valve covers and leaking down around manifolds, then there is a major issue that needs to be addressed.

Although if you have cracked cups and shot o rings I could POSSIBLY see oil getting into cylinders and then leaking out...but I would expect to see peace in the middle east before I saw that and the truck running...

Will say I had o ring issues as well, on the top oil o rings, and had the same thing. Extended crank or no start when hot, mixed results while cold. 6 of 8 top rings were shot. Through on a set of allient rings, and double steeled them up top to get rid of the break in the hard seal. All rings were broke in the exact same spot, right where the gap in the steel ring is. This is why I added a second ring and alternated the gaps so its a seamless seal.

97stoker350 · Jul 21, 2014

Nope don't have a scanner yet. But I had an idea that since this motor sat for a lo g time before I got it that the valve seals might be bad causing oil to go into cylinder because I used motorcraft oring s and I dont have any of the problems u guys with bad oring s say youre having it will not restart at all

97stoker350 · Jul 21, 2014

what do you guys use to get the ipr off without taking the pump off

ghohouston · Jul 21, 2014

1 1/8th deep socket, and if possible, a long 3/8 ratchet with a 1/2" adapter. ive had to use a 1/2 inch ratchet before. if you still have the stock obs fuel bowl, its gonna be a bish. its not bad at all on a super duty, on an obs, i dont see how you could pull the ipr with the bowl still on the motor.

TyCorr · Jul 21, 2014

ghohouston said:
1 1/8th deep socket, and if possible, a long 3/8 ratchet with a 1/2" adapter. ive had to use a 1/2 inch ratchet before. if you still have the stock obs fuel bowl, its gonna be a bish. its not bad at all on a super duty, on an obs, i dont see how you could pull the ipr with the bowl still on the motor.

My buddy has an old snap on socket that we welded a piece of 1/8 flat to it. So its a fixed wrench.

97stoker350 · Jul 22, 2014

Ok I rebuilt the ipr and truck started up. I let it idle for a while and went to drive and shut off. Rwfired it and I just kept cutting out and now it's back to where it was with the cel on and no start. What u guys think? Bad ipr?

co04cobra · Jul 22, 2014

You really, really, need to get it on a scanner. It's still just a guessing game.

ghohouston · Jul 22, 2014

TyCorr said:
My buddy has an old snap on socket that we welded a piece of 1/8 flat to it. So its a fixed wrench.

that would be handy. ever tried it on an obs? i seriously dont see it possible to remove the ipr on an obs with the stock fuel bowl still in place.

TyCorr · Jul 23, 2014

ghohouston said:
that would be handy. ever tried it on an obs? i seriously dont see it possible to remove the ipr on an obs with the stock fuel bowl still in place.

I havent touched a wrench to one in six or seven years. I can barely remember what it looks like under there.

Edit

eople still have fuel bowls?

ghohouston · Jul 23, 2014

TyCorr said:
I havent touched a wrench to one in six or seven years. I can barely remember what it looks like under there.

Editeople still have fuel bowls?

Yes, us in the stone age. I swapped over to a complete sd setup, bowl, hpop res and all. And I went to all that trouble for a few reasons. Ipr removal being one of them, another is I'm not a fan of crawling under trucks to change fuel filters. I do that enough at work. I probably will eventually install a pre pump filter though.

TyCorr · Jul 23, 2014

ghohouston said:
Yes, us in the stone age. I swapped over to a complete sd setup, bowl, hpop res and all. And I went to all that trouble for a few reasons. Ipr removal being one of them, another is I'm not a fan of crawling under trucks to change fuel filters. I do that enough at work. I probably will eventually install a pre pump filter though.

I have two filters under my rear drivers door. Its much better than dikking with that plastic butter dish under the hood.