Helping a friend

justinlogue5_0 · Nov 25, 2018

2003 6.0 F250

Has crank no start issue, not building high oil pressure. Wait a few seconds and then it will start right up. When it starts it might run good or it will just die back out. I just noticed on the times it won't crank after the continuous cranking, the low pressure oil pressure gauge isn't moving on the dash. Like I said, let it sit for a min and then it will get pressure and fire right up. It still has pressure on the gauge when it just dies, not sure about the ICP when it dies. Is it just as simple as his low pressure pump is going bad or is there something different on the 6.0 we should check? Thanks for any help.

ghohouston · Nov 25, 2018

You need to plumb in a gauge, on the low pressure side if you think that's wjere the issue lies. You can pull the oil filter iirc and depress the valve in the bottom of the housing with someone cranking the truck to observe low pressure oil flow. You need to monitor high pressure oil on a good scanner. You can't make hpo without low pressure oil (lube oil). The gauge on the dash is just a dummy gauge, that opens at something like 5-7 psi.

justinlogue5_0 · Nov 25, 2018

Now he is telling me he found small shavings on the IPR. Was told this is a possible sign of low pump going bad? Will have to hook up a manual gauge to see what low and high pressure's are while cranking and if it cranks again while running. He did say he pressed that plunger and tried it three times in a row and it would fill up with oil so maybe the gauge is just going bad. Will know more after he hooks up some manual gauges.

ghohouston · Nov 25, 2018

It's probably just a bad ipr. Thats not totally uncommon. Also not uncommon to replace the ipr due to that case, and the truck keep going for a long time. My guess, if the ipr was to be re installed exactly as it was removed, and y'all hooked up a scanner, you would find about 250 psi reading at the icp sensor. Just my guess, also could be 100 other things. Could be hpop, could be lpop, could be something else. If i owned it, like i said, i would replace the ipr and see what happens.

bismic · Nov 26, 2018

Can you park on an decline (sloping downward) and see if it starts more reliably that way?

That is a common check for HPOP issues. So is an air test and listening for air leakage in the oil filter housing.

justinlogue5_0 · Nov 26, 2018

I will ask him to try it but from what I am hearing from him the shavings on the IPR seam to be causing most of the trouble (or the wherever the shavings are coming from) He cleaned the IPR and it cranked up and idled fine, he drove it around the yard for a few mins and it just died. He pulled the IPR out and it had more specs/shavings again. He cleaned it, it cranked up and he pulled it back in the garage and left it last night. I told him how to make some manual gauges to test low and high oil pressure while this is going on so it will be a day or two before I have reading on that.

Where on a 6.0 do you hook the manual gauges for the low and high pressure oil psi's? A pic if you have one would be great so I can show him.

ghohouston · Nov 26, 2018

If its that bad, I'd pull the low pressure oil regulator, 12mm allen iirc, and check for needle bearings or other material.

justinlogue5_0 · Nov 26, 2018

Thanks

Jtreece · Nov 26, 2018

mines doing the same thing, but mine fires up every time!! changed the LPOP, checked the regulator had minimal shavings in the IPR. changed it and still cutting out/dying at 55-75mph. I'm losing oil somewhere after the LPOP or my HPOP has dropped the bearing and the LPOP can't keep up.

justinlogue5_0 · Nov 29, 2018

Not to leave this thread hanging, apparently it was full of metal so he is pulling the motor. He earlier bought a low mileage motor out of an ambulance and is currently bulletproofing it. He didn't really want to park his truck yet with winter coming (his only 4x4) but with this happening he is going to go ahead with the motor swap. After he is done he might pull this one apart to see what let go.

Jtreece · Nov 30, 2018

Man that sucks, we are pulling my HPOP this next weekend I'm hoping mine isn't the same outcome!!!

bismic · Nov 30, 2018

Jtreece said:
Man that sucks, we are pulling my HPOP this next weekend I'm hoping mine isn't the same outcome!!!

So the front cover was fine?

justinlogue5_0 · Feb 7, 2019

He got his new motor installed and is running pretty good except for the fact he can't get the Y pipe to bolt up correctly. One side will but the other is as tight as he can get it and it still leaks boost bad so he can't drive the truck. Apparently it is an unknown after market pipe and no matter what he does he can't get it to seal. He is supposed to go get a factory junk yard y pipe to see if that will fit . Is there anything that he should be aware of or is it possible he just has a bad Y pipe? Y pipe= pipe connecting the turbo to the manifolds (incase its actually called something else)

6.0 Tech · Feb 8, 2019

Try loosening the 4 bolts at the manifold, do not remive them. Then try getting it mated to the turbo, clamp the clamp, then tighten at the manifolds.

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justinlogue5_0 · Feb 9, 2019

Thanks, I will let him know

justinlogue5_0 · Feb 11, 2019

I think he has it good now but he is noticing a new problem which might have been the problem the whole time. What would cause his turbo to over boost? I will try to explain the best I can from what he is telling me. He has a on board gauge cluster (like edge or SCT) but no programmer at the moment and according to it his VGT is working correctly (open and closing) but when he goes to take off (and by take off I mean normal like at a red light etc...) it will jump to 33+ and you can hear the blow off on the turbo start popping off like crazy. He said he pulled the veins off and checked them, they are still new and clean and move freely. He pulled the vgt back out and looked for scarring, dirt ect and found nothing. What is he missing?

Also let me know if I should start a new thread for this problem?