Lowdown89
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Which versions the digital,night vision,economy?
HID's shut off truck
- Thread starter mint-6oh
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Which versions the digital,night vision,economy?
FORD7.3
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Hes running retro solutions, custom made projector housings..
WhiteDuallyIL
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Digital ballasts, High and Low beams, BiXenon Projectors but the electronics are the same as their (drop in) kits for 9007 or whatever bulb kits just the bulbs and projectors on mine are different
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Strictly Diesel
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First, IF the problem is ONLY with DP-Tuner chips, explain why I almost wrecked my 6.0L dually (NO DP chip there) when a set of high quality (no ebay junk) HIDs came on and completely reset the computer, stuttered and almost stalled the engine, caused the factory dash gauges to do that "full sweep" test thing they do, and totally upset the ABS computer (which caused the truck to try to change lanes). Well DP bashers...was it because I'm a dealer so my bad DP karma was catching up to me...or maybe you're wrong and it was actually because there are issues in the electrical systems of some Ford trucks and these issues can be affected by the way a pair of HID Ballasts and Bulbs start up???
Instead of making completely unhelpful remarks about throwing stuff away, how about offering some actual legitimate help to this person? What a novel concept...
I've experienced the above problem in 2 different trucks. One was the 6.0L I mentioned above and the other was my old 7.3L (problem was there both with and without the chip...which at the time was actually a 4-Position TS chip from Bill...before the days of DPT). In the 7.3L truck, it didn't happen as drastic as the 6.0L...but it would "stutter" the engine occasionally. I've NEVER had this problem in my current 7.3L, but when I installed the HIDs I did NOT follow the instructions that came with them and I instead installed them the way I did in my 6.0L to fix its issues.
After my 6.0L had the "lane change" issue...I got a bit freaked out and really started looking at things. The first thing I noticed was that I had the HID harness and relay box on the driver side, very close to the ECM. The main power and ground were attached to the driver side battery, and the plug for the relay box was connected to the driver side headlight plug. The ballasts were originally behind the headlights, right in front of the batteries. I removed the grille and moved the ballasts forward and inward toward the grille opening, they are now mounted to headlight header panel, you can see them behind the grille, on either side of the radiator opening. At the same time, I moved all of the connections from the driver side battery to the passenger side battery (main power and ground) and I moved the relay trigger to the passenger side headlight plug. As a precaution, I also located and cleaned up as many factory grounds as I could...several of them were connected to painted surfaces...brilliant!
The above FIXED the HID issues in my 6.0L. It never once gave any indication of interference with the dash, ECM or ABS after that. When I installed the HIDs in my current 7.3L truck, I did it the exact same way. I've had DP F5 and F6 chips in my truck, I have NO ferrite beads and I've never had any issue with the HIDs and engine stalling.
Instead of making completely unhelpful remarks about throwing stuff away, how about offering some actual legitimate help to this person? What a novel concept...
I've experienced the above problem in 2 different trucks. One was the 6.0L I mentioned above and the other was my old 7.3L (problem was there both with and without the chip...which at the time was actually a 4-Position TS chip from Bill...before the days of DPT). In the 7.3L truck, it didn't happen as drastic as the 6.0L...but it would "stutter" the engine occasionally. I've NEVER had this problem in my current 7.3L, but when I installed the HIDs I did NOT follow the instructions that came with them and I instead installed them the way I did in my 6.0L to fix its issues.
After my 6.0L had the "lane change" issue...I got a bit freaked out and really started looking at things. The first thing I noticed was that I had the HID harness and relay box on the driver side, very close to the ECM. The main power and ground were attached to the driver side battery, and the plug for the relay box was connected to the driver side headlight plug. The ballasts were originally behind the headlights, right in front of the batteries. I removed the grille and moved the ballasts forward and inward toward the grille opening, they are now mounted to headlight header panel, you can see them behind the grille, on either side of the radiator opening. At the same time, I moved all of the connections from the driver side battery to the passenger side battery (main power and ground) and I moved the relay trigger to the passenger side headlight plug. As a precaution, I also located and cleaned up as many factory grounds as I could...several of them were connected to painted surfaces...brilliant!
The above FIXED the HID issues in my 6.0L. It never once gave any indication of interference with the dash, ECM or ABS after that. When I installed the HIDs in my current 7.3L truck, I did it the exact same way. I've had DP F5 and F6 chips in my truck, I have NO ferrite beads and I've never had any issue with the HIDs and engine stalling.
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
I run a DP-Tuner and Retro kit. Never had an issue.
Joe, nice signature
Joe, nice signature
Lowdown89
New member
Dennis the abs light and cut out like you mentioned was what I was talking about earlier in trucks that wernt even chipped, thats one downfall of running a hid kit that is low beam only since you don't have a way to really ground the kit or anyhting since they just plug into your factory plugs on each side and don't use the harness like hi/low kits..... Im wondering if just cleaning up as many factory grounds as possible could possibly fix the problems people have with the abs light when running low beam only kits, I think the next kit I come across where somebody has that problem I'm going to try and see what happens
thuglike
Active member
I run a DP-Tuner and Retro kit. Never had an issue.
Joe, nice signature
I run DP and DDM Tuning HIDS...never a problem. I did however have a buddy of mine run DDM tuning and DP with the same issue as the OP. He removed the chip and the problem went away. He has since fixed it and runs the DP and DDM with no issues.
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Strictly Diesel
Active member
My old 7.3L and my 6.0L were both LOW BEAM ONLY kits. I don't remember the first brand, they are long out of business. The 6.0L had a pretty expensive Vision kit. My current truck has a Retro-Solutions Bi-Xenon kit.
Now that you mention it, it seems to me that my earliest kit may have had plugs that connected to the headlight connector on both sides (independent, no common harness). We're going back 10 years now, so I'm not 100% sure. I "think" the Vision kit on my 6.0L has separate power and ground and just used the headlight plug for the relay trigger...but I might even be wrong there. What I do know is that when I solved the issues in that truck, the main power and ground were heavy gauge wire, directly to the passenger side battery, and the headlight plug was only used to trigger the relay box (whether it was a relay from Vision or one I put in, I don't remember).
I can also tell you that we've done some HID installs in the shop, and I've always gone out and instructed the techs to do them as I detailed above...and we've never had a truck come back with any issues. We do sometimes have to lengthen the harness supplied with the HID kit to make it fit this way, but it's worth the extra effort in the end.
Now that you mention it, it seems to me that my earliest kit may have had plugs that connected to the headlight connector on both sides (independent, no common harness). We're going back 10 years now, so I'm not 100% sure. I "think" the Vision kit on my 6.0L has separate power and ground and just used the headlight plug for the relay trigger...but I might even be wrong there. What I do know is that when I solved the issues in that truck, the main power and ground were heavy gauge wire, directly to the passenger side battery, and the headlight plug was only used to trigger the relay box (whether it was a relay from Vision or one I put in, I don't remember).
I can also tell you that we've done some HID installs in the shop, and I've always gone out and instructed the techs to do them as I detailed above...and we've never had a truck come back with any issues. We do sometimes have to lengthen the harness supplied with the HID kit to make it fit this way, but it's worth the extra effort in the end.
Jarrod B
Active member
I have this issue.
however i have the 55w raptor hi low and slim ballast 35w for the fogs.
the 55w has its own power source which is on the pass side for its + and -. the ballast is sitting infront of that batt.
the driver side bulb has its ballast sitting on the side of the batt and is grounded to the neg post on the driver batt.
the fogs however have their ballast mounted on the bumper behind the licence plate. mostly the fogs set it off but the highs have done it too but not sure. ill confirm it tonight again.
what do i need to fix that. ddm doesnt have a ballast extender to reach the other side. and the fogs are far from the abs deal.
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Strictly Diesel
Active member
As I said in my post, I've had the best luck with ALL of the ballasts as far forward and toward the center of the truck as possible...and with ALL of the electrical connections on the passenger side of the vehicle. Depending on your brand and style of kit, this may require cutting and splicing wires, without seeing your setup I really can't answer.
Jarrod B
Active member
pass side
^^ wiring doesnt look like that but its that side for everything
the only item on the driver side
fogs in center bumper
^^ wiring doesnt look like that but its that side for everything
the only item on the driver side
fogs in center bumper
Tom S
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Did you ever toy with the idea of splicing in an extra ground as an experiment.
Tom S
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Another thought, has anyone tried temporarily running the HID off an independant battery to see if the interference is being transmitted over the trucks wiring or if it is being radiated and picked up by the PCM/Chip?
Strictly Diesel
Active member
This is what I would fix...move that ballast farther forward and farther toward the center of the truck...and move the ground to the other battery (assuming power is already coming from the other battery).
