How do you guys feel about: ARPs vs the H11/H13s?

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 23, 2014

Im looking to take my truck into the shop for studs. I dont need them, but its more of a PM type of deal. PLus I want to get injectors ( 175s/75s or 190/30-50s ) and a larger turbo ( depending what size injectors I get ). What Im wondering is, is the extra price tag over the ARPs ( though no much more ) worth it? You dont see many people complaining about H11s from A1 Technologies saying they are having puking issues... The H13s are a new gig as we know, and dont have a track record on PS's yet. I think someone said they are pretty well established in the Dodge world?

Power wise, I guess be around 600-ish? And I dont plan on going any higher.

Does anyone know off hand why the H13s would be superior to the H11s form A1 Technologies? I know they H13s are cheaper, but I have a line on H11s for about 650 shipped.

So all in all, ARPs or the H11/H13 studs?

mcdaniel1991 · Mar 23, 2014

You may or may not have seen this but..http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46978

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 23, 2014

Didnt see it. Thanks, it answered my questions.

bigrpowr · Mar 23, 2014

MrOneEyedBoh said:
Didnt see it. Thanks, it answered my questions.

Let me know if I can help you out.

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 23, 2014

What do you feel the difference is between your studs and the A1 studs.

01PSD · Mar 23, 2014

His studs will exist long after A1's go extinct LOL

backwoodsboy · Mar 23, 2014

MrOneEyedBoh said:
What do you feel the difference is between your studs and the A1 studs.

H11 and H13 are very similar alloys.
Both are superior to the derivation of 8740 that ARP uses in their studs.

onebadcoastie · Mar 24, 2014

I don't know what the price tag is with the H13's but they supposedly have a tensile strength of 240k..I'm sure Mike can correct me if I'm wrong. ARP 625's are 260-280k but have a significant price tag. Guess it depends on what you're willing to spend. Honestly, I don't know if I'd want to spend $1500 (that's the highest tag I saw with the 625's) on studs and am even more curious how they have such a varying tensile strength rating.

Mdub707 · Mar 24, 2014

For the minimal cost difference I'd go with the extreme studs myself. ARP's are likely fine for 90% of the guys with tuned 6.0's though. Doing the job correctly is key. None of these studs will hold the gasket seal if the job is done sub-par.

Powerstroked162 · Mar 24, 2014

6.0 h11's no longer exsist. Anything you buy will be old inventory, IF they are even still available for resale. So it's h13's & ARP

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 24, 2014

They are still available, actually quiet a few guys have them still for sale... And really doesnt matter if they are old stock.

Powerstroked162 · Mar 24, 2014

That's old stock. H11's are no longer in production. The manufacturer sold out.

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 24, 2014

Oh yeah I know that but they are still available.Just because they are gone, doesn't mean they don't make a good stud, right? :drool:

onebadcoastie · Mar 24, 2014

No, they just upgraded to something better. Stop production on one and whatever's left and let them fade out for the new inventory.

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 24, 2014

A1 went out of business. Or at least abolished their A1 brand.

Did they turn into another company>

onebadcoastie · Mar 24, 2014

Good to know. If you're getting them at a good price, then go for it.

MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 24, 2014

650 shipped. I just dont know if they are a better option than h13s since they have a little more stretch than h13s, aka less brittle than h13s.

I dont know metals that well.

Mdub707 · Mar 24, 2014

If the H13's have a higher tensile strength and are less expensive, that's what I would use. Just make sure you follow proper torque procedures and there should be no issues. When both studs are torqued to the appropriate settings, under identical conditions the higher tensile strength material will have less "give" to it, meaning it wont stretch as much.

mcdaniel1991 · Mar 24, 2014

I torqued mine to 180ftlb

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MrOneEyedBoh · Mar 24, 2014

Mdub707 said:
If the H13's have a higher tensile strength and are less expensive, that's what I would use. Just make sure you follow proper torque procedures and there should be no issues. When both studs are torqued to the appropriate settings, under identical conditions the higher tensile strength material will have less "give" to it, meaning it wont stretch as much.

True, I wouldn't be doing it myself. Marty's Diesel in Elton,MD would be installing them for me.