i wanna crack 800 hp.... on a budget

[smokinstroker92]

You don't need a aftermarket block period. DO ran a stock block at 2000+HP the block is fine when the proper precautions are taken (girdle, fill, or bedplate). There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. 600hp on stock forged rods is easily obtainable with today's tuning and other advancements.

 

[superpsd]

But filling the block rules out street driving and heavy towing. I was just looking at the perspective of what it would take to have a 7.3 that could handle 600+ hp and turned down for towing daily driving and not worry about the block that may have already suffered a stress failure that manifests itself by leaving you stranded and the wrong place, wrong time say hundreds of miles from home. I had also read a few guys cracked the blocks at the 700-800 level. I don't want to be a few hours up some logging roads hours from home when **** breaks.

The other side of it was to have a strong enough bottom end so that you didn't have to pull so much power from down low to make it live.

 

[Magnum PD]

You can do a partial fill and be fine. A 2 bolt girdle is a good idea also.

 

[smokinstroker92]

But filling the block rules out street driving and heavy towing. I was just looking at the perspective of what it would take to have a 7.3 that could handle 600+ hp and turned down for towing daily driving and not worry about the block that may have already suffered a stress failure that manifests itself by leaving you stranded and the wrong place, wrong time say hundreds of miles from home. I had also read a few guys cracked the blocks at the 700-800 level. I don't want to be a few hours up some logging roads hours from home when **** breaks.

The other side of it was to have a strong enough bottom end so that you didn't have to pull so much power from down low to make it live.

Filling the block doesnt rule out street driving at all. Heavy towing(20k+) yes I could see some issue but daily driving and light towing not a problem the cooling systems on these trucks are more than efficient to handle it. I dd with 400/400s, half fill, 75mm and never have temp issues. Iv got several motors that iv built for customers that are filled with zero issues. If you are looking for ultimate reliability at that level rods, girdle, studs done. The blocks breaking is caused by block flex and cracking from cam journals to mains. A girdle or filling prevents this.

If using a stock forged motor the power does not have to be all in the high rpms like previously stated. Just have to limit fueling down low enough to move the torque curve up in the rpm range to limit the cylinder pressures which correlate very close. Gearhead does the best at this that i have found he has spent alot of time perfecting this in his tuning.

 

[bruce]

But filling the block rules out street driving and heavy towing. I was just looking at the perspective of what it would take to have a 7.3 that could handle 600+ hp and turned down for towing daily driving and not worry about the block that may have already suffered a stress failure that manifests itself by leaving you stranded and the wrong place, wrong time say hundreds of miles from home. I had also read a few guys cracked the blocks at the 700-800 level. I don't want to be a few hours up some logging roads hours from home when **** breaks.

The other side of it was to have a strong enough bottom end so that you didn't have to pull so much power from down low to make it live.

Shut the *** up. Your mouth is a sh1t factory, because all that comes out is sh1t. When some asks how to make a compound setup using a blower with a stock turbo that doesn't work worth a *** then you can chime in. High hp tgreads, leave those to people who have done it.

 

[Magnum PD]

Ouch.

 

[WHITExOBS]

LOL at building a stronger bottom end just to move your hp up in the rpm range, your trading squish stress for rotational, a balance would be better suited in that scenario depending on how high your spinning it.

 

[superpsd]

Shut the *** up. Your mouth is a sh1t factory, because all that comes out is sh1t. When some asks how to make a compound setup using a blower with a stock turbo that doesn't work worth a *** then you can chime in. High hp tgreads, leave those to people who have done it.

Works just fine. Just needs more power sorry for joining in on the conversation to learn a little. I want more power thus why I am trying to learn the limits of the 7.3

Btw didn't know people could ask questions to learn. Riddle me this how the **** do people advance knowledge without throwing those questions out there? And don't say search I spend hours searching all the forums....everyone has a different answer that contradicts the other guys answer or view.

Just like today searching little did I know there was two versions of the factory block , one with more webbing.

 

[Magnum PD]

Didn't know that either.

 

[bruce]

You didn't ask a question, you started runnin that sh1t factory about what you can and can't do with a filled block when you have about as much experience with filled blocks as I do performing open heart surgery.

 

[WHITExOBS]

Didn't know that either.

Here ya go. Model year 97 changes.


http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2322

 

[superpsd]

I guess I worded it wrong. I hope to push my 7.3 to high power levels but getting the house paid in full is a little more important than 700hp so it's going to be a few years until then I like to expand my knowledge of this engine.

 

[cbf9703]

But filling the block rules out street driving and heavy towing. I was just looking at the perspective of what it would take to have a 7.3 that could handle 600+ hp and turned down for towing daily driving and not worry about the block that may have already suffered a stress failure that manifests itself by leaving you stranded and the wrong place, wrong time say hundreds of miles from home. I had also read a few guys cracked the blocks at the 700-800 level. I don't want to be a few hours up some logging roads hours from home when **** breaks.

The other side of it was to have a strong enough bottom end so that you didn't have to pull so much power from down low to make it live.

Have you read the guys trying to help in this thread? There are plenty of options out there these days for a 7.3, it isn't the same game it was 10 years ago. Find a reputable shop that has a track record of success with high hp 7.3s and give them a call... let them learn you on what a good setup for your goals would be. A good engine builder will set you straight on aligning your expectations to the capabilities and limitations of the motor setup. There's something to be said about learning from experience.



Or take some of this down...

You don't need a aftermarket block period. DO ran a stock block at 2000+HP the block is fine when the proper precautions are taken (girdle, fill, or bedplate). There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. 600hp on stock forged rods is easily obtainable with today's tuning and other advancements.

You can do a partial fill and be fine. A 2 bolt girdle is a good idea also.

Filling the block doesnt rule out street driving at all. Heavy towing(20k+) yes I could see some issue but daily driving and light towing not a problem the cooling systems on these trucks are more than efficient to handle it. I dd with 400/400s, half fill, 75mm and never have temp issues. Iv got several motors that iv built for customers that are filled with zero issues. If you are looking for ultimate reliability at that level rods, girdle, studs done. The blocks breaking is caused by block flex and cracking from cam journals to mains. A girdle or filling prevents this.

 

[superpsd]

The only reason I mentioned an aftermarket block is because they do make an aftermarket block out of Compacted Graphite Iron. Which is shown to be much stronger than cast iron and the reason why manufactures are switching to CGI including gas engines or the wonderful 6.7 stroker. Sure if it is a pulling, drag, or fun around town truck fill the block and if it breaks you can load it on a trailer and go home to build again. If your hundreds of miles from home or up in the woods hours off the beaten path and you have a block failure due to fatique that shows itself at the most inconvinient time it's going to suck balls. I know because I have been several states from home with break downs in the middle of no where. I've had to Jimmy rig repair vehicles up the mountain to get home. Good luck Jimmy rigging a broken block.

How many block filled 800hp 7.3s have endured 200,000+ miles of hard street use?

 

[m j]

yup. you need a $10000usd block to drive to 7-11
the factory stuff wont hold

 

[superpsd]

Yeah because there is a 7-11 at the end of the logging roads where I hunt often above 6000 ft but it's also anywhere from 1- 7 hour drive depending on what mountain top 7-11 that I want a glacier water slurpee from.

 

[SDS97_7.3]

Yeah because there is a 7-11 at the end of the logging roads where I hunt often above 6000 ft but it's also anywhere from 1- 7 hour drive depending on what mountain top 7-11 that I want a glacier water slurpee from.

So you want reliability but you want high hp also? Yup, makes sense

 

[Freightshaker]

I don't think I would want a daily driver to drive three states away to the middle of nowhere built on the fringe of death. Need a high hp strong truck, might move from light to heavy trucks.

 

[dieselmandustin]

So you want reliability but you want high hp also? Yup, makes sense

Very rarely do those 2 things go together. Lol at least they haven't for me.

 

[Jason]

Little late to this, just catching up on the last 2 pages, and dammit boy...Bruce with the hammer of justice, ready to bring it down on the spread of misinformation, and bullsht everywhere! Keep up the good work lmao.