powerstroked08
Active member
You better get this thing figured out before harford!
Idm issues.
- Thread starter dsberman94
- Start date
Arisley
Moderator
Take it slow, don't get in a hurry. Call me if you have any questions. My number is all over this site. However, if needed, PM me and I will shoot it to you.
dsberman94
Well-known member
Why? So I can blow another pump seal out of the thing. No thanks. It'll sit down there in the lot and look pretty with all the bed rot covered up and the new wheels with a fresh coat of wax on it. Two tone might even be a different color by then. I'll have the camera with me again this year too.
Thanks. Just wish I could figure out which side wasn't firing before I start taking valve covers off.
Last edited:
dsberman94
Well-known member
So. Started on the driver's side and unplugged all the injectors one by one. Of course they all made it run like chit. Why would it be on the easy to get to side. Went over to the passenger side and unplugged the injectors one by one again. From injector didn't make any difference. Next step is what? Ohm out the harness? Gonna have to learn how to do that with a multi meter.
Arisley
Moderator
Pick ohms, lowest scale you have, one lead on one end of the wire, the other lead on the other end of the wire. You should get a full sweep or damn close to it (short), if you get no movement of the needle, you have an open.
If it is digital, you want to see zero or close to it, if you see ∞ you have an open.
If it is digital, you want to see zero or close to it, if you see ∞ you have an open.
dsberman94
Well-known member
Into the yellow wire slot or the black wire slot on the connector? And then into where on the connector coming through the vcg?
bruce
Active member
If you have an infrared thermometer you can shoot each port on the exhaust manifold and the cooler ones aren't firing
dsberman94
Well-known member
Put the red probe in the yellow wire slot at the injector and the third slot from the front of the vcg connector and got a 1.0 reading. Did the same for the lest injector back except it was a green wire and put the other probe in the 3rd slot back in the vcg connector and got 1.0 again and the digital meter had a solid beep at me the whole time a circuit was connected through it. Trying to get the connector going into the gasket from the outside off now to check just the gasket
dsberman94
Well-known member
Gasket seems to check out good too. Starting to think its the injector. Thinking about swapping the injector to another hole and seeing if the problem moves with the injector.
ghohouston
Active member
Have you run a contribution test?
dsberman94
Well-known member
Don't have a way to. Wish I did.
dsberman94
Well-known member
pm'd you
dsberman94
Well-known member
I'll be calling the company who built my injectors tomorrow to see what he says. If he says pull the one that is acting up and send it I'll have that bich in a box and overnighted to him tomorrow with a return label in the box. If he wants me to swap it into another hole and see if the problem follows it before I send it I'll do that to. It just won't be torqued to spec for the test idle. Spoke with a ford diesel tech and he said it also sounds like a bad injector since the wiring is checking out and the idm is new. Says if it's were hooked up to it it would read the actual code that the idm had stored. But since all I have is my edge insight I can't read the actual code. Which is unfortunate.
ghohouston
Active member
You need to invest in a decent scanner
dsberman94
Well-known member
I'll be getting AE as soon as this thing stops breaking chit long enough to get some money saved up. Between constantly changing breaks, the trans again last summer, needing to get it to pass inspection, and everything else that keeps happening, it's been right under passing inspection and now that that's covered it's next. Just need things to stop going wrong long enough to get it.
dsberman94
Well-known member
I'm out messing with it right now. Unplugging any injector on the passenger side causes it to run like chit. Thinking my only option is going to be to get either AE on it or take it to ford and fork over the $135. Probably needs a contribution test and I need to know what the actual code is. Still sounds like it is having a miss. Cel comes on and goes off. Idk what to do at this point. All injectors seem to have equal amounts of oil coming from the squirters.
dsberman94
Well-known member
Idk wtf is going on with this thing. Now it sounds like the front passenger side injector doesn't make it run any different. I'm trying to get a video to load onto YouTube now but I'm not sure how much of a change will be audible in it. The front injector seems to have a much louder click to it than the rest do. Not sure what that means, if anything. I'm just getting aggravated and I'm about to call it a night and hit it again in the morning. I'll post the video once it uploads but I again old how much off a difference you'll be able to hear.
dsberman94
Well-known member
I guess there's a slight difference but I need someone else to tell me what they think. Something bad inside the injector? I'd hate to pull them out and spend a few $x00 to get no new result. http://youtu.be/UbyqXwrOPIA
dsberman94
Well-known member
need some opinions on what someone else thinks. im leaning towards a bad injector. i have ohmd out the harness and vc gasket on the passenger side. i guess friday ill hit the driver side up. i had the driver side valve cover off already and unplugged all of those injectors one by one which made the truck idle worse. so i put that valve cover back on and moved over to the passenger side where all those wires ohmd out fine as well. however the front injector doesn't seem to change the idle all that much whereas unplugging any other injector causes the idle to get noticeably worse. video should be posted above. oil out the spout looks to be the same amount as the others, anything specific i should look for on this? amount of time it takes for the oil to start coming out? anything at all, i need ideas on what to check. driving a bone stock 98 jeep cherokee is getting old.
symptoms im having are CEL with a code stored in the idm. thats all the edge will tell me. CEL goes on and off at idle but is on steady when driving. im able to drive it but ive got reduced power when the cel is on. on rare occasion the cel will turn off while driving and i will get what feels like normal power back for a moment, then the CEL will come back on. If the torque converter locks and the engine is lugging a little bit the whole truck will start to shake until the load is taken off of the engine. if the tc locks up a hill and the engine lugs there will be a puff of smoke out the exhaust (probably every time the problem cylinder should be working), not sure whether the smoke is white or blue, but i noticed it there under that circumstance. smoke doesn't seem to be there all the time while driving and definitely not there at idle. can i ohm out the injector solenoids and what should a digital multimeter read if they're good or bad? When im driving EGTs will get quite hot, probe is in the drivers side manifold, and the EGTs will be quite hot when i stop and it takes a very long time to get anywhere near 400*, most of the time its around 500* when i stop after getting off the highway just cruising. fuel consumption actually seems quite terrible, seemed to be flying through fuel the couple days i drove it with this problem, could just be paranoid about that though.
i just need some sort of a direction to go in. ive been told its a bad injector, ive been told its definitely the wiring because of how the CEL goes off while driving, ive been told its actually the IDM even though its brand new. If i get someone that says its an injector with some experience or decent reasoning, then I'll either be getting some hybrids or pulling these out and getting them rebuilt again. IDK if they are original but i had them at rosewood diesel injectors 2 years ago and he said they all looked fine at that time. i don't have money to just throw parts at it right now. checked blowby in case it was a cracked piston before i removed the valve covers and it was fine, didn't blow the cap off.
i don't have access to IDS or AE and have nothing to give a buzz test with. if it absolutely comes down to it ill sack up and bring it to ford and pay to have them hook up a computer and figure out what code is actually stored and run a CCT. AE is on the list to buy just need to get the truck to stop breaking long enough to get money to go towards something else. the 200k mile mark hasn't been kind to me. hoping for a little bit of help now so some thing start going right. sorry for this being long but i just wanted to get everything out for anyone willing to help. need the truck to get started on some side jobs and so far its been down for the most part since mid week last week.
symptoms im having are CEL with a code stored in the idm. thats all the edge will tell me. CEL goes on and off at idle but is on steady when driving. im able to drive it but ive got reduced power when the cel is on. on rare occasion the cel will turn off while driving and i will get what feels like normal power back for a moment, then the CEL will come back on. If the torque converter locks and the engine is lugging a little bit the whole truck will start to shake until the load is taken off of the engine. if the tc locks up a hill and the engine lugs there will be a puff of smoke out the exhaust (probably every time the problem cylinder should be working), not sure whether the smoke is white or blue, but i noticed it there under that circumstance. smoke doesn't seem to be there all the time while driving and definitely not there at idle. can i ohm out the injector solenoids and what should a digital multimeter read if they're good or bad? When im driving EGTs will get quite hot, probe is in the drivers side manifold, and the EGTs will be quite hot when i stop and it takes a very long time to get anywhere near 400*, most of the time its around 500* when i stop after getting off the highway just cruising. fuel consumption actually seems quite terrible, seemed to be flying through fuel the couple days i drove it with this problem, could just be paranoid about that though.
i just need some sort of a direction to go in. ive been told its a bad injector, ive been told its definitely the wiring because of how the CEL goes off while driving, ive been told its actually the IDM even though its brand new. If i get someone that says its an injector with some experience or decent reasoning, then I'll either be getting some hybrids or pulling these out and getting them rebuilt again. IDK if they are original but i had them at rosewood diesel injectors 2 years ago and he said they all looked fine at that time. i don't have money to just throw parts at it right now. checked blowby in case it was a cracked piston before i removed the valve covers and it was fine, didn't blow the cap off.
i don't have access to IDS or AE and have nothing to give a buzz test with. if it absolutely comes down to it ill sack up and bring it to ford and pay to have them hook up a computer and figure out what code is actually stored and run a CCT. AE is on the list to buy just need to get the truck to stop breaking long enough to get money to go towards something else. the 200k mile mark hasn't been kind to me. hoping for a little bit of help now so some thing start going right. sorry for this being long but i just wanted to get everything out for anyone willing to help. need the truck to get started on some side jobs and so far its been down for the most part since mid week last week.
