IDM,PCM Failure?

[Dave_Nevada]

I think I found my answer about 66 mm journal bearing. Too large but fine for a ball bearing. Lighter compressor wheel with upgraded 360 journal 60mm and ported housing. Wheel should spoil up quick for the 1.0 housing. Especially with a hydra or ts chip. The thing is whose ported housing?

Regardless of which spool you choose, you have to install quality up-pipes to ensure you can drive the spool without leaks, It is crucial to stop any pressure leaks in any turbo situation, gas or diesel. Spend the money here, no matter what.

Don't get me started on air volume and velocity. That's a real minefield that too many have no damned clue about. What's worse, they will not listen to reason, so you're arguing with someone who has a deep wallet and a stubborn brain.

That's okay, the parts man will GLEEFULLY take your money. Crafty debate skills do not phase these folks. However, it is 'circumstances' that will always win the day in arguments.

 

[Dave_Nevada]

Btw I haven't pulled passenger side valve cover yet. I was removing stuff to get to it and decided to pull the engine harness and inspect it. It was horrible shape. This took some time. I found 3 wiresneeding repair. Several were questionable with stretched or mashed insulation.none broken so carefully wrapped everything up using new plastic flex and fiberglass heat wrap. Liquid tape at wire connections after crc cleaner. New grease at terminal points the best butt splices from supply house for new harnesses and repairs with liquid tape and heat shrink wrapped in fiberglass heat wrap. Couple new lugs for #6 power wire. Fresh Ford Blue paint for valve cover and doghouse. Planning on a closed circuit catch can ccv mod and maybe a coolant filter.
Now I'm sure I'll catch some flack but I did buy Dorman gaskets. The difference I see is the oem inside connector is removable the dorman is not. Which I like not removable. The ground are spliced outside the connector on the Forman which could be a problem but also could be on oem inside connector with 2 pin out to one. Tiewraps on dorman inside cover which I don't like plastic channel with weak ass clips on oem. The glo plug and injector clips are identical. The oem I removed one injector clip broke when released the lock. IMO mother one is all that good of a design. I'll stick with the 150$ pair and if I'm back in there in 6 months I'll report and take my slashes! Lol! Surely by then these injectors will be tired. 330k ain't bad if you ask me.

And now you know why it is highly recommended to use OEM gaskets. True, the Dorman connector is fixed. But the quality of the rest of the harness is crap. Yep, those Dorman clips are pure crap too. I hope it works for you. All this seems like a lot of stuff just to decide to use substandard parts for the repair.

Just my 2 cents. :naughty:

 

[sootie]

Its an utter waste to use dorman. With any luck, it will be bad out of the box...

 

[Dave_Nevada]

Since you mentioned that I'm hoping it didn't send current through the pcm. I'm not an electronics guy but I understand some of it. I know that a diode is like a check valve, it only allows current one way. And I suppose there is one in the pcm for this reason except it's not going to save the pcm but probably protect whatever for more damage. Fixn to yank valve covers in a bit and see what's up!

If there's a diode installed on the B+ bus to the PCM (CPU in the computer world), then there's a real risk of it popping open (like a fuse) or even worse, fusing closed so there's no protection against an accidental reverse polarity situation. I've seen both.

Current on a ground bar/bus behaves like nothing else we're used to, so the sky is the limit in its affect. Since I assume you're an electrician, I want you to imagine someone incorrectly wiring 100 amps on a ground bar in a house. 'Poof' goes anything in it's path. Even MOV (Metal oxide Varistor) components melt in that situation. MOV's protect you against a very fast surge 5 msec or less, not sustained out of spec high current from a battery cable sporting 700+ amps. That nuts to expect it to.

And you're right, normally diodes act like a one way valve (gate) in a water system. That is provided you don't over drive their ability to stop a reverse bias to their P/N (Positive/Negative) junction. All bets are off if you do.

 

[Dirtclod]

The diode you are talking about, is it under the hood fuse box marked diode?

 

[Dave_Nevada]

The diode you are talking about, is it under the hood fuse box marked diode?

Well, I was talking in general about circuit design. I don't want to say yes or no because I don't know which one you refer to. I'd have to look at a schematic to tell you what its function is.

 

[Dave_Nevada]

The diode you are talking about, is it under the hood fuse box marked diode?

Okay, did a bit of reading on that diode in the fuse box. That is used to protect the ECU/CPU/PCM whatever the hell you want to call it (means the same to me)- in the event of someone hooking up battery jumper cables backwards. So yeah, if it's open, your PCM will not work.

I think it drives the PCM relay. Now think of your battery cables shorting in your system. Same idea as hooking them up backwards. Max current running wherever it wants!

 

[Dirtclod]

Ok today I got the passengers side harness installed and did an ohm test. All read 2.9. That's from the the plug at valve cover all injectors plugged in. Before I took the old one out all read around the same as before. I have a regulated fuel return kit and the ss braid fuel line was frayed and look like it had an electrical ark. Probably why it shut on and off. Yesterday I removed the turbo. Compressor wheel looks worn. Behind the compressor wheel there is grooves worn from shaft play I assume. I had a neighbor who works on hi end engine builds take a look and he said probably would be ok to rebuild but everything will have to be replaced. Looks like a 38r is in the future. Tomorrow I'm going to take the upipes out. I have bellowed upipes to replace.

 

[co04cobra]

The dorman gaskets are dogsh!t. Complete waste of time for you to do all the work and troubleshooting you just went through, and then put those in.


Also, why would you have to use a 1.0 housing to upgrade compressor housing and/or wheel?

 

[Dirtclod]

I don't don't have to have the 1.0 compressor housing. I've only saw the 38r with that housing unless you pay extra for it. Unless I'm missing something. The money it cost for a complete rebuild for the stocker is more than I want to put into it. I see you're a vendor on here pm me if you can help with some advice and if you have what I need I'll purchase from you. Thanks

 

[Dirtclod]

I ordered KC's stage 1 turbo this week. It should be here Monday. Everything is ready just waiting on that so I can put it all together. It should be all tightened up and breathing good now. The price of the ts chips have really gone down. I'll probably get one from a local shop and see how she does. I'll post some pics and update when I get it all back together.

 

[Dirtclod]

Well I wish I could say "she's up a running" but that ain't the case. Everything back in, wires from idm read 3.0 on all 8. Unplugged icp still no start. Changed cps nothing. Friend came over with diagnostic but no codes. Power to the connector at idm. I haven't checked ipr valve but res is full. Weird thing is my battery's won't stay up. I did the air ****** 3 years ago. Just left relay like it was. Haven't had a problem with it before but with key on I get same voltage at hot side as battery,small wire to the right is same voltage but across it's a few bolts lower. I've tried jumping it out but nothing. And jumpered the diodes. Still notta. What's next?

 

[ghohouston]

You need to be able to read live data and look at a few things when you have access to a good scanner. There are a million things that could be causing your no start.

 

[Dirtclod]

I couldn't agree more. So last night without the help of a good scan tool I did verify that the hpop was working. I had swapped out cps cause I wasn't reading rpms anymore and after the swap I'm still not while cranking. The only test I hadn't done to the idm was a voltage check to the valve cover harness. Now from what I read you can't get an adequate reading from a meter but checking anyways I had 0. Do I did the sealed beam test and again nothing. I took the idm out and took it apart and there is in fact a bad spot on the board. So I'm ordering another one and hopefully this will fix it.

 

[Dirtclod]

Ok guys! I've got live data now. P01280 is the code it throwing now. I was throwing icp sensor code and unplugged it but no start. There's no rpm at cranking with 13.2 volts reading on scanner. Lpo is reading now since cps was changed back but no rpm. No smoke or even a whiff of anything at the tail pipe. Injection control pressure 639 while cranking. Sounds to me like Cam pos sensor? Anyone? Fuel pressure is at 62 on my guage under the hood. Would faulty glo plugs cause no rpm?

 

[Dirtclod]

I set it on injector pulse width and it reads 0.

 

[6.0 Tech]

If you have no rpm, you will have no injector pw. No rpm, truck doesnt know its trying to start.

 

[Dirtclod]

The code that concerns me is 0232 secondary power to fuel pump. I can hear it's turning on and cycling and turning off and I'm reading 62 lbs on the gauge. I'm not really sure what secondary means here but it sounds like it's not pumping after it cycles cause the pcm is not allowing it to. Possibly because of the cps? I'm going to the dealership and picking one up to see if that will fix it. Is there any other reason it wouldn't be showing rpms? I'm also going to get a new connector for icp sensor and ipr connector. I'm missing the lil rubber piece on icp and ipr dissent look good either. If I had more time I would just send off the pump and get an adrenaline so that when I get new injectors later on I'll be set.

 

[Dirtclod]

I just talked to the dealership and they don't show anything for the connector for icp or the ipr. Where could I get one?

 

[Arisley]

The pump will run for about twenty seconds or so and then shut off.