Injector Swap How-To

907DAVE · Sep 8, 2011

I opt to drain fuel and oil from the rails to prevent cross contamination, and it also saves a bunch of time when you dont have to evacuate the cylinders.

vanderchevy18 · Sep 8, 2011

To each his own. That was just how I do it.

Homesteader · Sep 20, 2011

Chris nice right up.
I will be pulling my injectors in a few days to do my head studs.

littleredstroker · May 31, 2012

good write up.. i am about to instal mine and am absoloutely terrified of hydro locking it. ...terrified

OBS F350 · May 31, 2012

Good stuff! Very good pictures also, What I like for takeing fuel/oil out of cylinders is using some small rubber hose that fits on the end of a blow gun and have a Y running off the blow gun with rubber hose running off each end of the Y. Put one end in the cylider and it creates a vacuum and will blow all the oil/fuel out the other end.

obspsd · May 31, 2012

907DAVE said:
I opt to drain fuel and oil from the rails to prevent cross contamination, and it also saves a bunch of time when you dont have to evacuate the cylinders.

This is how I do mine also. Just drain the fuel and remove the two plugs on the oil rail (1/8in Allen wrench) and I also LIGHTLY use an air hose to blow out the rails to be sure I won't have to evacuate the cylinders. I feel it's faster this way but that's just my preference

TARM · May 31, 2012

I can without a doubt state that sometimes there is NO way you can physically press hard enough to get a injector with brand new o-rings to seat. I am not even remotely close to being a small guy and even the number #2 which is plenty easy to get all your weigh onto would not go in. It took a number of firm hits with a dead-blow hammer. BTW a dead-blow hammer is what you want to use IMO. You can lay a piece of rubber mat over it if you want. But hitting it flat with a dead blow creates more of a hard shove than the sharp shock a normal hammer does even using wood or the bounce and off angled deflection a rubber mallet does. Now by all means if they go in with physical pushing force that is the way to go.

If you wanted to take some time you could rig something up that would allow a flat bar with a threaded hole with a bolt head that a socket fits to and actually pushes on the injectors solenoid top using threaded holes in the head at anchor points.