injectors - the final mod of my truck

n54power · Jul 9, 2015

To date I've upgraded and or replaced any major wear items in both engine and chasis
Truck has a built trans,t500,fuel mods and new uppipes to go with 38r/ww2

Ideally I'd like to use an injector that would be a drop in without special tuning.

Now before everyone says it, I know for best performance tuning is best. Especially for single Shota

There are some dealers that claim they have a stage 2 split that will work without tuning.

My goals are - to compliment my 38r
- good HP bump
- manageable gets when towing

I've seen alot of people suggest 170/80 singles.

I know that a 7.3 keeping the stock turbo mount are limited but given were I live I'm sure a rather nice bump in power is doable. I held a 1 truck lead on a stock 6.7 to 60mph,then he walked by me. I want more

WILD_PHIL · Jul 9, 2015

What fuel mods? E fuel?

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

jeremiahmercier · Jul 9, 2015

With a turbo that moved similar cfm as your 38r, and 175/100 singles, and good tunes I never had an issue with egts, towing up a mountain or driving empty, tunes are critical for egt managment and power, not to mention, singles are more efficient that splits

Powerstroke Man 6.4 · Jul 9, 2015

I had 160/100's with the 38R with WW2 it ran really well was a perfect combo for me.

Low EGT's at WOT

Towed perfect

No smoke which was awesome.

Good MPG

I also had a Swamps IDM, T500 , Walbro fuel pump and sump with a AD 100 (For filtering)

I ran it on Swamps drag tune towing and DDing all on a stock L99 350,000 mile engine never had a problem other than the stock Ford reman transmission not holding up LOL.

Arisley · Jul 9, 2015

n54power said:
To date I've upgraded and or replaced any major wear items in both engine and chasis
Truck has a built trans,t500,fuel mods and new uppipes to go with 38r/ww2

Ideally I'd like to use an injector that would be a drop in without special tuning.

Now before everyone says it, I know for best performance tuning is best. Especially for single Shota

There are some dealers that claim they have a stage 2 split that will work without tuning.

My goals are - to compliment my 38r
- good HP bump
- manageable gets when towing

I've seen alot of people suggest 170/80 singles.

I know that a 7.3 keeping the stock turbo mount are limited but given were I live I'm sure a rather nice bump in power is doable. I held a 1 truck lead on a stock 6.7 to 60mph,then he walked by me. I want more

With single shots, you need tuning. With stock tuning, you will only get the fuel the PCM is calling for.

WILD_PHIL said:
What fuel mods? E fuel?

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

'00 comes from the factory with e-fuel.

jwlandry · Jul 9, 2015

175s from PIS and be done. I ran them and they was very fun.

n54power · Jul 9, 2015

I've gotten some nice feedback,thank you guys.
I'm talking with php about tuning using my FU setup.

Now.for the fun part,how much of an improvement in power was noticed with the injectors?

I know fuel makes the biggest improvement but up to this point I haven't had the privilege of riding in a 7.3 with upgraded injectors

ghohouston · Jul 9, 2015

I went from stock injectors/ 38r with Gearhead tunes to rosewood 238/100's/38r with Gearhead tunes, and loved it. Literally no turbo lag, would break the tires loose when I wanted, etc... extremely fun setup

CarportMechanic · Jul 9, 2015

I really like my 175/80's from PIS. Smooth injectors with great power. I havent run any other injector but stock and I feel this is a great DD/tow setup.

I suggest skipping the 38R WW2 and go for the billet 6/6 wheel. People report better MPG's lower EGT's and better bottom end power.

n54power · Jul 9, 2015

It's actually the wheel from riffraff.

jeremiahmercier · Jul 10, 2015

Huge gain in power, on the dyno and seat of the paints

CurtisF · Jul 12, 2015

n54power said:
T
Truck has a built trans,t500,fuel mods and new uppipes to go with 38r/ww2

Do yourself a favor, if you haven't yet balanced the turbo after adding the WW.... do it now.

I have no personal experience with the WW, and I'm positive it's a great product. But you have a rotating assembly that spins over 100,000 RPM on oil coated ball bearings, and if it's not balanced then bad things tend to happen.

You can search this and other PSD forums for end results of unbalanced 38R's running WW's. Balancing is cheap compared to buying a new charger.

lincolnlocker · Jul 13, 2015

CurtisF said:
Do yourself a favor, if you haven't yet balanced the turbo after adding the WW.... do it now.

I have no personal experience with the WW, and I'm positive it's a great product. But you have a rotating assembly that spins over 100,000 RPM on oil coated ball bearings, and if it's not balanced then bad things tend to happen.

You can search this and other PSD forums for end results of unbalanced 38R's running WW's. Balancing is cheap compared to buying a new charger.

i thought 38r's where component balanced from the factory? as is the ww2... i have put mine through hell with the ww2.. guess we will see how many more wot runs it can take..

live life full throttle

Luke@MillerPerformance · Jul 13, 2015

CurtisF said:
Do yourself a favor, if you haven't yet balanced the turbo after adding the WW.... do it now.

I have no personal experience with the WW, and I'm positive it's a great product. But you have a rotating assembly that spins over 100,000 RPM on oil coated ball bearings, and if it's not balanced then bad things tend to happen.

You can search this and other PSD forums for end results of unbalanced 38R's running WW's. Balancing is cheap compared to buying a new charger.

Balanced wheel on a balanced shaft. Nothing to balance.
Balancing becomes necessary when you take, for instance, a GT40 turbine, turn it down to run in a bored out powermax, and stick a 68mm compressor on the other side.

CurtisF · Jul 13, 2015

Luke@MillerPerformance said:
Balanced wheel on a balanced shaft. Nothing to balance.

When you swap a wheel, the rotating assembly itself is no longer balanced.

It might be close and a person may never have an issue, or it can be off enough that given just a bit of time, the turbo craters. But a ball bearing turbo like the 38R doesn't hold up if the rotating assembly is just slightly off balance.

Like I already said, search this and other forums. It's not happening just once or twice.

n54power · Jul 14, 2015

Well I had a set back today
Wheel bearing **** the bed today. So first replace it then back to injectors. But it gives me more times for research.

So opinions have been a 160/30,160/100,175/100
And.ive given thought to 175/146
From reading, 160 to 175-180cc is about a 25-30hp difference
Then there's the injector cups.a added price but -id.rather do it now then have to do not later

ghohouston · Jul 14, 2015

There's no guarantee cups will ever go bad. It takes all of 30 minutes to remove injectors in the event it ever did happen... I say leave them alone unless there's a problem.

n54power · Jul 14, 2015

Noted.thanks. so far it's solid with not even a hint of a fuel smell.
Now just have to pick a injector.

lincolnlocker · Jul 14, 2015

n54power said:
Noted.thanks. so far it's solid with not even a hint of a fuel smell.
Now just have to pick a injector.

id say go with what ever the tuner of your choice recommends!

live life full throttle

Jomax · Jul 14, 2015

I had 250/100s and loved them. Ran it with the stock E99 turbo aswell. I don't think I'd ever go less, just detune and rock it. If you ever go for more power, you have the possibility.

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