Injectors & turbo??

[OBSWIZ]

350-400HP and not needing trans mods=BOOM!

If you will be happy with 350-400 which most people are then get stage1's 180cc a 38r, SRP1 and a BTS..great MPG's and will be a bullit proof combo..need more HP then get a better turbo, modded h2e and Hybrids 250/100's with support mods and ya can play with the big boys.

 

[MINK]

350-400HP and not needing trans mods=BOOM!

agreed, I blew my stock trans at 300hp

 

[CGMKCM]

Before modifying your engine do yourself a favor and get a compression test done.

Before modifying your engine get gauges and learn what normal numbers look like and what is an abnormal number.

Before modifying your engine remember these words. You pay to play. I have seen several posts were people modified then damaged something expensive. Not trying to scare you off of modifying but identify and manage the risks.

 

[CSIPSD]

350-400HP and not needing trans mods=BOOM!

If you will be happy with 350-400 which most people are then get stage1's 180cc a 38r, SRP1 and a BTS..great MPG's and will be a bullit proof combo..need more HP then get a better turbo, modded h2e and Hybrids 250/100's with support mods and ya can play with the big boys.

agreed, I blew my stock trans at 300hp

I blew my stock tranny at about the same point too, but it was a mechanical diode.

A stock tranny with a valve body will hold up just fine at 350-400hp... No billet crap, no fancy crap...

So easy to piss away someone elses money... I dynoed 470hp with 238/80's and I have never broke an input shaft, output shaft or other...

I broke a center support and a foward drum, both went back as factory like parts.

My wife's Ex is running a HD 4r100 from Ford, damn near 100k on it at 330-350hp with NO ISSUES. Matter of fact the fluid has never been changed.

 

[CGMKCM]

I blew my stock tranny at about the same point too, but it was a mechanical diode.

A stock tranny with a valve body will hold up just fine at 350-400hp... No billet crap, no fancy crap...

So easy to piss away someone elses money... I dynoed 470hp with 238/80's and I have never broke an input shaft, output shaft or other...

I broke a center support and a foward drum, both went back as factory like parts.

My wife's Ex is running a HD 4r100 from Ford, damn near 100k on it at 330-350hp with NO ISSUES. Matter of fact the fluid has never been changed.

Just for clarification, Are you saying that A stock tranny with 180k miles and no maintenance history is a good candidate to just throw a valve body on and it will be fine at 350 to 400 horsepower? Trying to keep this newb thread on track.

 

[OBSWIZ]

Some have all the luck in the world..we all know some one like that but most of us don't..its like everything in life, their are always the exceptions..I just don't listen to the exceptions in life or follow in their footsteps as I'm not lucky..what can happen will and always at the worst moment..so deside if your lucky and everything always works out in your favor..then run your stock trans, PMR motor etc over whats safe and prudent..you will get away with it. rest of us need to prepare.

 

[CSIPSD]

Just for clarification, Are you saying that A stock tranny with 180k miles and no maintenance history is a good candidate to just throw a valve body on and it will be fine at 350 to 400 horsepower? Trying to keep this newb thread on track.

At 350hp what are you going to break? A shaft?

Not likely. A good valve body and a tranny temp gauge and it will live just as long as it would at 300hp.

 

[CSIPSD]

Some have all the luck in the world..we all know some one like that but most of us don't..its like everything in life, their are always the exceptions..I just don't listen to the exceptions in life or follow in their footsteps as I'm not lucky..what can happen will and always at the worst moment..so deside if your lucky and everything always works out in your favor..then run your stock trans, PMR motor etc over whats safe and prudent..you will get away with it. rest of us need to prepare.

LOL... 4 motors, 6 trannys, 2 rear ends in this truck alone...

I have learned the hard way what works and what doesnt...

 

[TARM]

The thing you normally break is the converter. The 7.3 base converter is a weak part and is very well documented. With a valve body if you know how to drive you cankeep the trans alive but you are never gonna have the fun you could if you did not have to baby it.

 

[ITUKMOR]

Right now I'm looking at Swamps and for my intentions I was wondering if the 175/30% would work well with the hypermax mouting kit and h2e turbo? I think I'm SLOWLY starting to understand or am I way off?

For an H2E setup or even a modified H2E we would recommend a 250/80% accompanied by head studs.

I agree with whoever said have your END GOAL in mind when ya start your build. ie, if you know ya wanna make 450+HP one day with a charger making 50psi - I think its 100% worth pulling the engine to install studs, springs, etc AND do your 'initial' injector/turbo swap at the same time. You can always do big oil, turbos and injectors in the truck later.

My opinion is fuel system mods are a waste of money. #8 starvation in particular is waaaay overblown and the factory system does an excellent job of filtering the fuel (with the exception of the in-tank mixing chamber/pre-filter - it has to GO). Deadheaded, the factory fuel system can easily support 400-450HP and prolly quite a bit more. This opinion is seldom shared by people who invested in RR, so I will now don my flame-suit!

There is absolutely NO reason to pull the engine to install head studs or valve springs.

Just a little head's up; FORD thought there was an issue with fuel pressure drop at the fuel rail causing premature wear to P&B assemblies. It was big enough of a problem that their engineers had to come up with a solution. The band aid to the problem was the LL injector. So if fuel pressure/flow drop can happen and damage stock flow injectors, then how could they be fine for 400+ hp.

This opinion is seldom shared by people who invested in RR, so I will now don my flame-suit!

This opinion is not shared by anybody who understands how to protect a HEUI fuel injector from damage. Forget the suit, put on the helmet todayoke:

 

[CGMKCM]

At 350hp what are you going to break? A shaft?

Not likely. A good valve body and a tranny temp gauge and it will live just as long as it would at 300hp.

Where is the consistency?

You were telling the OP not to pizz his money away on fancy crap for his engine and you can do almost as much without spending big $$$. Don't listen to those that think money grows on trees etc.

I agree with you to a point, If the engine compression is checked out, and the numbers look good. Then putting injectors and a turbo on makes sense after the gauges are installed. But don't blindly throw parts on and expect everything to work out great.

I would not spend a penney on engine upgrades without making sure the tranny is in good shape.

Check it out by dropping the pan. Metal and burnt fluid, don't pizz your money away on a valve body.

No metal, no burnt fluid, change the filter and fluid and add a valve body.
The valve body will buy some time but the tourqe convertor will hate the added power.

OP what I am trying to say is your engine and tranny is a system that requires both to be in good condition to get power to the ground.

Take short cuts on either and your reliability will suffer.

You need to determine what condition your truck is currently in.

I bough my truck in 2003 with 14k miles on it and a full maintenance history as well as Oasis report.

I had gauges,

I lost my tranny at 50k on a little more than stock power (Banks Powerpak with Automind chip and transcommand). It was not the diode, it was sloppy factory tolerances allowing internal fitting to loosen. I went to BTS tranny rebuild and 6.0 cooler installed and also a 4 position chip with Cales tunes.

After that my stock turbo went and I added an H2e. All of this happened at the 50k mile mark. I did not upgrade anything without making sure the rest of my power train could handle the changes the new components would bring.
Reliability was my #1 concern.

For a tow rig if you don't look at it this way the tow truck bills will get you! Your vacation plans will be ruined.

 

[TARM]

No need for a flame suit as your opinion of the 7.3 stock fuel system is not supported by the facts. But I will say there are some very cheap ways to address it on setups that do not need more than the stock pump and fuel lines.

 

[Big Bore]

I would not take Fords LL injector solution to fuel pressure dropping in the rails as anything more than a poorly placed band-aid on the stock dead head system. A retarded band-aid. And the banjo bolt choke point. Fuel gauges prove the RR and other systems with better pumps and basically deleting the entire stock fuel system from tank to heads solves the problem and allows for fuel flow rates at 4x or more of stock. My personal and current fave is the 4 line deadhead and modified banjo bolts for which I have most of the parts assembled.

 

[TARM]

Why use banjo bolts at all. You have room for normal fitttings. All the banjo does is creat a hard sharp angle that will create a bunch of turbulence. That can then lead to the release of entrained air which will then go thur the injectors.

 

[CSIPSD]

Where is the consistency?

You were telling the OP not to pizz his money away on fancy crap for his engine and you can do almost as much without spending big $$$. Don't listen to those that think money grows on trees etc.

I agree with you to a point, If the engine compression is checked out, and the numbers look good. Then putting injectors and a turbo on makes sense after the gauges are installed. But don't blindly throw parts on and expect everything to work out great.

I would not spend a penney on engine upgrades without making sure the tranny is in good shape.

Check it out by dropping the pan. Metal and burnt fluid, don't pizz your money away on a valve body.

No metal, no burnt fluid, change the filter and fluid and add a valve body.
The valve body will buy some time but the tourqe convertor will hate the added power.

OP what I am trying to say is your engine and tranny is a system that requires both to be in good condition to get power to the ground.

Take short cuts on either and your reliability will suffer.

You need to determine what condition your truck is currently in.

I bough my truck in 2003 with 14k miles on it and a full maintenance history as well as Oasis report.

I had gauges,

I lost my tranny at 50k on a little more than stock power (Banks Powerpak with Automind chip and transcommand). It was not the diode, it was sloppy factory tolerances allowing internal fitting to loosen. I went to BTS tranny rebuild and 6.0 cooler installed and also a 4 position chip with Cales tunes.

After that my stock turbo went and I added an H2e. All of this happened at the 50k mile mark. I did not upgrade anything without making sure the rest of my power train could handle the changes the new components would bring.
Reliability was my #1 concern.

For a tow rig if you don't look at it this way the tow truck bills will get you! Your vacation plans will be ruined.

Sorry... I am just assuming that the OP truck is in good operating condition, as normal maintance would tell you...

 

[Arisley]

My tranny is hanging in there with nothing more than a modified valve body (sonex valve and tricumalator springs), and a heavy duty torque converter.

Course I also put a wood post right next to where I park, at home and at work. I knock on it every time I get in or out of the truck.

On the fuel system, the first mod that should be done to any truck in the pre-pump and intank mods (Hutch and Harpoon), then at the very least a regulated return. The factory filter will do fine for quite a bit of HP.

I really need a sump.

 

[tankmech_250]

Thanks all for the info. This is really helping me learn. I knew all of this would need to be addressed some sooner then later like the fuel. But I was under the assumption the stock tranny was a lot better then its being portrayed in here for handling additional power. So for a slight change of my original post, instead of the turbo do the tranny. But will the stock turbo be good with bigger injectors say like the 250/80's if i plan on upgrading the turbo to something like the h2e after doing the tranny? Or would it be best to do turbo and injectors at the same time? I'm asking that cause I'm pretty set on going with BTS after all the reading on them I've done and know thats a good chunk of change. Thanks again everyone.

 

[OBSWIZ]

The stock turbo can barely handle stock inj's with a chip..250/80's will kill it.
If I can get you a price on the BTS please PM me.

Cary

 

[CGMKCM]

Sorry... I am just assuming that the OP truck is in good operating condition, as normal maintance would tell you...

Sorry if my post came across as harsh. It is hard to type in a talking things over beer in hand tone.

 

[CGMKCM]

Thanks all for the info. This is really helping me learn. I knew all of this would need to be addressed some sooner then later like the fuel. But I was under the assumption the stock tranny was a lot better then its being portrayed in here for handling additional power. So for a slight change of my original post, instead of the turbo do the tranny. But will the stock turbo be good with bigger injectors say like the 250/80's if i plan on upgrading the turbo to something like the h2e after doing the tranny? Or would it be best to do turbo and injectors at the same time? I'm asking that cause I'm pretty set on going with BTS after all the reading on them I've done and know thats a good chunk of change. Thanks again everyone.

It is difficult to answer your questions without knowing the current condition of your truck.

For example you get a BTS (great tranny) but your ball joints and tie rods are shot. Was that a good call?

Here is what I would do in your shoes.

Call Rudy's (They are a sponsor on here with a great reputation in Durham NC, see sponsor section) tell them you recently bought the truck and don't really know what condition it is in.

You want all service caught up. You also want there opinion on upgrading your truck based on its current condition and your goals for the truck.

It won't be cheap but it will be the best time and $$$ you can spend.

Until then you will not get good feedback on what to do to your truck.

You might as well get a decent set of gauges installed while you are there.

Once you know what you have, then come back and tell us your goals, budget and timeline.