Input needed for new studs and head gasket replacement

[skevac]

I have a 2005 Ford Excursion with a 6.0. It has 125,000 miles. I've owned it since 12,000 miles. It has a stock upgraded turbo, updated turbo oil feed line, EGR ******, 4" turbo back exhaust, blue fuel spring upgrade, upgraded alternator and wiring, upgraded FICM with 50hp PHP tune, coolant flush and ELC. All of the ugrades listed have been done for quite some time, not something I've just done and created this problem. Recently we've been getting the teakettle noise when backing off the throttle and sometimes at an idle the heater blows cold air, not all the time though. I took it and had it dye tested at the degas bottle and it was confirmed that it has a blown head gasket. The coolant level seems to stay consistent and has only puked a small amount once.

My first question is since it's not puking any coolant, there doesn't appear to be any going in the oil and no smoke out of the exhaust, how critical is it to stop driving it and get it fixed right away? It's my wife's daily driver, so it's not like it's getting the $hit worked out of it. I'm not planning on waiting forever to get it fixed, but the shop is at least a couple weeks booked and if we park it that puts us down to 1 vehicle. But I also don't want to risk causing more damage which will cost more $$$$$!

One shop is recommending the following:
new upgraded up pipe with flexible bellows
ARP head studs
OEM dummy plugs
OEM turbo bolt & o-ring kit
OEM head gasket kit with standpipes
OEM intake gasket kit
OEM oil cooler
upgraded STC fitting
new degas bottle & cap (should I use OEM? They quoted a Dorman)
Alliant injector seals
OEM exhaust gaskets
have the cylinder heads cleaned, crack checked, surfaced and o-ringed

Does anyone have anything else to suggest based on the miles and what's already been done to it? I don't plan on getting rid of this vehicle anytime soon. I had another shop tell me that the lifters should be inspected and possibly replaced. The same shop also said I should grind the valves, replace the seats, and get new valve guides. I'm wondering if that is necessary?

I want to do this once and do it right, but I'm not operating on an unlimited budget. I'd also like to know if anyone has had this done recently what an average cost may be?

I know this question has already been asked probably 1000s of times but I've searched and haven't came up with much and I don't have extra time to be spending searching the internet for the answers. If it's already on the forum somewhere I'd appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction, I'm just looking for honest answers from people who have experience with this and am trying to do it right the first time. Thanks in advance.

 

[6.0 Tech]

You should be fine driving it. I would put oem degas and cap on it. May want to throw a water pump in your list, as well as lifters. Lifters are gonna be a bit more to do, but if one ****s and kills the cam 6 months after the work is done, youre gonna be real pissed off...

 

[skevac]

You should be fine driving it. I would put oem degas and cap on it. May want to throw a water pump in your list, as well as lifters. Lifters are gonna be a bit more to do, but if one ****s and kills the cam 6 months after the work is done, youre gonna be real pissed off...

Are they noted for lifter failure? Just wondering why to be concerned about them? Also you didn't mention what about the valve guides, seats and valve job. Necessary or not? I mentioned water pump and both places I called said they haven't had to replace many of them. My concern with driving it is with air getting in the cooling system is it potentially causing hot spots which could lead to cracking a head or making something worse (aka more $$$$$).

 

[6.0 Tech]

Lifetter failures are fairly common. Typically see them between 150-200k. When they go, it kills the cam, puts metal thru everything, kills the front cover and oil pump, and will leave you stranded. Water pump is cheap i surance. Built a buddys motor, he kept the original water pump in, 2 wks after getting it running, impeller broke. And any good machine shop should recess the valves and do a valve job if they mill the heads. And for whatever its worth, all 6.0 heads crack, usually not in spots where damage will happen. Its enough so that ford had to put out a message saying cracks in the head were ok and not a reason to replace heads under warranty...

 

[Lipka101]

You should be fine driving it for a bit. Some guys will drive them for years with no harm done. If you want to go overboard do it all.

I think the valve guides/grind is not necessary unless your heads are in bad shape. Definitely recommend doing orings on the heads. Looks into buying a set of rebuilt oringed heads from UCF and sending yours back as a core. I also think lifters should be replaced. It will never be easier to replace them than when the heads are off.



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[skevac]

What about the HPOP? If I floor it, and I mean floor it like merging on the highway sometimes it'll throw P2290 code. Only does this when running it hard. As far as the lifters replace with OEM? Water pump OEM or BPD with the aluminum impeller? Thanks for the responses so far!

 

[webb06]

What about the HPOP? If I floor it, and I mean floor it like merging on the highway sometimes it'll throw P2290 code. Only does this when running it hard. As far as the lifters replace with OEM? Water pump OEM or BPD with the aluminum impeller? Thanks for the responses so far!

Agree with most things mentioned. Oem lifters are pricey and are nothing more than a reboxed mahle unit so I would go with that brand or something similar. I’d recommend replacing exhaust manifold bolts as well. And lifters if you can spring the extra expense. Water pump id stick with oem. I’ve never seen a cracked impeller and work on these trucks daily for many years.

Might be worth getting a scanner on the truck to monitor icp when under WOT condition to see if the pump actually is weak. If so, replace it while you’re there.


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[skevac]

Agree with most things mentioned. Oem lifters are pricey and are nothing more than a reboxed mahle unit so I would go with that brand or something similar. I’d recommend replacing exhaust manifold bolts as well. And lifters if you can spring the extra expense. Water pump id stick with oem. I’ve never seen a cracked impeller and work on these trucks daily for many years.

Might be worth getting a scanner on the truck to monitor icp when under WOT condition to see if the pump actually is weak. If so, replace it while you’re there.


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Does a mini maxx monitor ICP? I have one from my other truck in there right now so I could monitor the EOT & ECT to see if my oil cooler was plugged. If it does what should I be looking for at WOT?

 

[webb06]

Does a mini maxx monitor ICP? I have one from my other truck in there right now so I could monitor the EOT & ECT to see if my oil cooler was plugged. If it does what should I be looking for at WOT?

I believe it can. I’m not sure what value it’ll show that you’re reading. Over 3000psi. It’s going to have to drop to like 1500psi if it’s kicking the light on.


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[6.0 Tech]

Agree with most things mentioned. Oem lifters are pricey and are nothing more than a reboxed mahle unit so I would go with that brand or something similar. I’d recommend replacing exhaust manifold bolts as well. And lifters if you can spring the extra expense. Water pump id stick with oem. I’ve never seen a cracked impeller and work on these trucks daily for many years.

Might be worth getting a scanner on the truck to monitor icp when under WOT condition to see if the pump actually is weak. If so, replace it while you’re there.


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What he said about the lifters is true. However, tye warranty on oem is twice as long. Local shop here did rcd cam, lifters, pushrods in a customers truck and 1yr and 3months after done, a lifter chit the bed and killed the cam, they had to eat the repair. Had it been ford lifters, wouldve been warranty till 2yr. So yes they are the same parts, but what is piece of mind worth?

As for the water pump, oem should be fine. Ive personally only seen 4 or 5 break the impeller.

 

[skevac]

Reading up on the lifters some are saying the cam profile is what kills the lifters. With that being said is it worth the extra $ and labor to put in a different camshaft? Sounds like quite a job to put a cam in these. Anyone have experience with Dynamic Diesel's lifters or cams?

 

[6.0 Tech]

Dynamic diesel in michigan? If so, do a little search in the 6.4 section...

It isnt a hell of a lot more work to put a cam in if you are doing lifters already, and changing the cam will help with spool, egts, etc typically. However, if you do a cam, spend the money on pushrods and valve springs while you are in there.

 

[skevac]

Dynamic diesel in michigan? If so, do a little search in the 6.4 section...

It isnt a hell of a lot more work to put a cam in if you are doing lifters already, and changing the cam will help with spool, egts, etc typically. However, if you do a cam, spend the money on pushrods and valve springs while you are in there.

Went to the 6.4 section, guess that answers that question. Just remember I'm NOT doing a HP build. I'm looking for longevity and reliabilty. If some extra ponies comes along with that great. Just wanting to know if it's worth it for a cam being they say that's what hurts the lifters. These things snowball out of control quick! Put in a cam, then you better put in push rods and springs and on and on and on! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$