jeremiahmercier
Member
Ebpv works great as a decent exhaust brake as well if you do a lot towing in the mountains, we love to use it for that in the 02
Yeah, stock to smaller upgraded injectors should not overspeed the 38r, it's actually a really stout little turbo.You know..i was thinking that after I bought it. Would have saved some money to. But i was pretty happy no one knocked me for it until the 2nd page. Lol. EBPV is just used during warm up right?
Thanks for mentioning the Waste gate that was one thing i forgot to ask about that I wanted to. Truck is oretty stock aceept for i take, stock injectors. I should tight it as far as it will go?
might even be able to get everything clean and burp the throttle a few times or even just let it idle to get a idea of where its leaking.. if not then drive it down the road a couple hundred yards then get out and check it.. if still cant find it, do a wot run then get out and check it.. if you just go drive it fir miles without checking, it could be messy again and you wont find it. have to start over..I will thanks for the tip...gotta love that brake cleen i buy it by the box, that super clean degreaser works really good to.
it can definitely come from that!! i believe golfer said that there are 22 or 23 different spots on top of the motor that can leak oil from a bad oring..The HPOP has several locations that can drip. I had the same exact decent drip coming of the bell housing. Made me think it might have been rear main, due to my older gasser days. I found the oil filled valley and in the end several of the HPOP orings were leaking.
he has all new parts.. should be good for a 100k miles or so..Look closely at the ebpv actuator. Where the rod comes out of the housing. Thay are bad about leaking when cold then stopping as it warms up. If you have any oil at the rod hole I would just do the delete. Worst part is putting the freeze pigs in the housing.
Look closely at the ebpv actuator. Where the rod comes out of the housing. Thay are bad about leaking when cold then stopping as it warms up. If you have any oil at the rod hole I would just do the delete. Worst part is putting the freeze plugs in the housing.
he has all new parts.. should be good for a 100k miles or so..
live life full throttle
He is replacing the pedestal.
not known to but possibly can!I will check the piece coming out of old pedestal closely in the morning, after that i will recheck the hpop lines, clean everything and start putting it back together.....wtf...22 or 23 spots that are known for leaking into the valley???? I guess I better get used to this because i plan on keeping this truck forever! Lol I just hope i put this all back together with no new leaks..
it can definitely come from that!! i believe golfer said that there are 22 or 23 different spots on top of the motor that can leak oil from a bad oring..
live life full throttle
agreed!Golfer is The 7.3 God IMHO and his shop is still working away on the 7.3 whereas other places have moved on to bigger and better things.
I want to say dieselorings carries orings in a higher grade than OEM. I was also doing some oring research and the hardness, durability, etc.. can vary significantly depending on the material/type. From what I found the difference in cost can be significant for just a single oring. With the pressures that the oil system uses I'd almost be for spending the $$ should the need arise to prevent future leaks down the road.