Kc300x

[The Brad]

I think I got my game plan together, and I think it's better than leaving the stock turbo alone, and it gets rebuilt at the same time.. and less than half the kc drop in.. and should provide more performance than just bigger sticks with the stock turbo..

DIY 66mm kit -$255
Kc s300 turbine wheel - $225 (my only splurge in this)
Non ebpv pedestal - $60
Riffraff high flow outlet - $59
For a grand total of $599

That will keep me happy until I can save up for a t4 kit.. I just can't justify pulling the stock turbo and not at least rebuilding it, and if I rebuild it, I might as well do a 66mm kit.. I'm going to try the original. 84 housing to start with, and if I don't like it, I can always change it out to a 1.0 housing...

Thank you everyone for all your input and opinions, I think it has steered me in a good direction to get some more performance out of my truck while waiting for the t4 kit.. at least I'll feel better having new injectors and a rebuilt turbo instead of the wore out 300k mile junk

That’s sounds like a good plan. I hear some good feedback with that KC replacement turbine. They also make a 70mm turbine and 1.0 housing if you can splurge a little more. That would make for the best performing stock turbo around. Make sure your rebuild kit includes a 360 degree thrust bearing.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

The rebuild kit in the 66mm kit does have the 360 bearing.. I looked on KCs website, and I don't see the 70mm turbine and housing

 

[The Brad]

The rebuild kit in the 66mm kit does have the 360 bearing.. I looked on KCs website, and I don't see the 70mm turbine and housing

My mistake. It looks like they don’t have the housing, but he OBS turbine is 70mm and I’ve read where some have machined the housing. Might be worth giving KC a call.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

I think I will.. I am slightly hesitant to go with a 1.0 housing because I don't want the turbo to spool slower, I know the bigger sticks will help with that.. I just figured I would run the .84 housing because that's what I already have, and if it works great, then no extra spent.. I'm afraid that if I get the 1.0 housing I'll be disappointed and end up switching back to the .84 and not using the 1.0..

100% chance I am completely overthinking this lol

 

[The Brad]

Just make sure you limit fuel. With an .84 housing and a 66 wheel, you’re asking a lot out of that 3/16 turbine shaft and you’ll definitely have enough fuel to overspeed the compressor wheel.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

Hmmm maybe I will throw it in the budget for a 1.0 housing.. I'll have to think about it, I didn't think about it how you just said it.. thanks for you input, gives a guy stuff to consider

 

[ruffneck7.3]

I've done some research on the whole obs turbine upgrade, and the hardest part I've found is finding a housing that fits the 70mm turbine.. I agree that it would be ideal, and I think I am going to look into having the 1.0 housing machined to accept it.. thanks for the idea, didn't know they were different

 

[The Brad]

I've done some research on the whole obs turbine upgrade, and the hardest part I've found is finding a housing that fits the 70mm turbine.. I agree that it would be ideal, and I think I am going to look into having the 1.0 housing machined to accept it.. thanks for the idea, didn't know they were different

Sounds good, but be careful that you don’t run the cost up for an interim turbo. Otherwise, you might as well get the KC.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

It *shouldn't* too much.. I found a 1.0 housing on fleabay for $70, and the turbines are the same price.. so it would just be how much the machining would cost..

I wonder what the tolerance is for the turbine housing to turbine?

 

[Petro]

I put together a diy 66 with a 1.00 exhaust housing and ran it with stock injectors on a 6 speed truck for about a year before I sold the truck and in all honesty I really liked the charger. I didn't really notice a lot of difference in spool up compared to the stock turbo and i never really had any complaintswith it. Bigger injectors were the plan, but I never got to try it out. I'm fairly certain I will be installing another on my brother's 02 just because its a cheaper option with a littlebit of room to grow on the fuel side . Good luck.

 

[KCTurbos]

I think I got my game plan together, and I think it's better than leaving the stock turbo alone, and it gets rebuilt at the same time.. and less than half the kc drop in.. and should provide more performance than just bigger sticks with the stock turbo..

DIY 66mm kit -$255
Kc s300 turbine wheel - $225 (my only splurge in this)
Non ebpv pedestal - $60
Riffraff high flow outlet - $59
For a grand total of $599

That will keep me happy until I can save up for a t4 kit.. I just can't justify pulling the stock turbo and not at least rebuilding it, and if I rebuild it, I might as well do a 66mm kit.. I'm going to try the original. 84 housing to start with, and if I don't like it, I can always change it out to a 1.0 housing...

Thank you everyone for all your input and opinions, I think it has steered me in a good direction to get some more performance out of my truck while waiting for the t4 kit.. at least I'll feel better having new injectors and a rebuilt turbo instead of the wore out 300k mile junk

Horrible plan IMO... we quit selling the D66 diy kits... they suck. That is a lot of the reason drop in turbos get such a bad name. Especially on a stick shift. This biggest downfall of these turbos is the turbine wheel. The drop in s300 style wheel helps... but a bigger s300 turbine wheel is even better. Putting a huge compressor wheel on the tiny stock turbine wheel is not a great combo.


Also... as a lot are saying... with a stick shift truck bigger is not always better. The 366 or 369 t4 kits are going to be kinda laggy. Just like the KC300x 66/73 or KC38r 66/73. None of those options are going to be happy at 1500rpms.

I always push stick shift guys into smaller setups because they tend to be happier. The problem with the bigger turbos and a stick is they take time to light... and by the time you shift into the next gear you are starting over again and have to wait for it to light. A 364.5 vs 366, the 364.5 is going to be better in EVERY WAY until you get up over about 3000rpms and then the 366 is going to be better. Ask yourself how much time you spend above 3000rpms to get the advantage of the bigger turbo?


If you are worried about lag, towing at lower rpms, spool up, and less smoke from a stop. Then go s364.5 or KC300x 63/73...

And NO... none of those options will clean up 238/80s on a max effort tune. But you will be much happier overall IMO from the complete driving experience.


We have also tested the kc300x 63/73 back to back with a t4 364.5sxe... Don't wanna start a pissing match but the KC300x is a game changer with these drop in turbos and perform AWESOME... Hit us up with any questions.

[email protected]

 

[Kowboy]

I know that this is the SD section and I have a OBS but I thought I would give some input as I have been down this road. My injector choice is not nearly as big as yours. I am also running 3.55 gears and 33" tires as the 4.11 were just to low on the freeway. I did the 3.55's after the injectors.

I have a 95 F350 CCLB 4X4 ZF-5. I purchased this truck in 96 with just under 23000 miles. about 4 to 5 years ago the injector o-rings started to leak. I decided to add a little more power and went with some Rosewood stage 2's (160/80). Of course this lead to a number of upgrades, HPOP, new clutch, exhaust, intake, inter-cooler, Super Duty intake plenums, new tunes on a TS6 chip, and a d66 style turbo with a 1.00 exhaust housing.

This was one smokey hot running pig until the turbo would lite. I installed bellowed up pipes from Riff Raff, little difference. I installed a gated exhaust housing that is .94, better but still hot and smokey until the turbo would lite. Smoke would go away around 1800 RPM still ran a little warm but better. I then tried a .84 housing on the exhaust this would start to lite at about 1600RPM. Again better but still not liking the smoke cloud behind me between shifts, if I ran the RPM's up to 27 - 2800 between shifts then it was not bad, but I felt like I was beating on the truck.

I met a guy in Twin Falls ID with a T4 and a 366, he has a very similar setup as myself other then 160/30 injectors auto trans and a old style BW366 turbo. I drove his truck and the turbo preformed much much better then mine. Cody had also been the D66 route and nearly the same upgrades to try and clean up the smoke.

Living in Idaho at a higher elevation and driving in the mountains over 5000 ft I wanted a turbo that would still preform well at elevation. I contacted James Barder and explained what I was after. He rec-amended the BW SXE363 with the 68 turbine and a .91 exhaust housing. This had been the best mod I have done with this truck. The turbo will start to lite at just over 1100 RPM smoke is almost non existent, I can shift with no load around 1500 and not worry about blacking out the road behind me. With a load the turbo will lite very easy, I can get 10 to 15 lbs of boost at 1500 RPM with a load and 0 smoke. It has made driving the truck a pleasure again (that and the just added ZF-6).

The KC turbos were not out at the time I did this. I was told that the D66 style would work great, it did not. I think the stock TP38 lit sooner then the D66 with the same size turbine housing, I just did not feel the stock turbo would live behind the 160/80 injectors even with the gated housing.

To sum it up - I did not want to spend the money to go T4, so I purchased a D66, bellowed up pipes, a WW2, and a number of turbine housings just to try and get a better preforming turbo. After driving Codys truck with a T4 and an old style 366 the difference in how it would lite was night and day. The 363SXE is an great turbo for my setup. Could have saved a bunch of money had I went this route first.

Hope this helps