Latest mods for 23x/100s

[BrewTown]

Looking for current thinking I guess. This will be my '00 Forged rod Ex, 3.73 and stock to 33" tire. Towing won't be often or too heavy, even if I get another TT it'll be 12k or less. Elevation around here is around 700 ft.

That out of the way, I have the injectors already, and currently have a 1st gen KC38R on new up-pipes, Hydra, 4" exh, 6637, CTS2 with boost and EGT, might be it for now. I have a Wyse Stg 2 on order. Mostly looking for current working supporting mods.

1. Shimmed 910s or beehives? No plans on exhaust brake, and IDM says no to 8,400 rpm...
2. Head studs? Gate's at 40 psi. If someone wants the KC38R (1.0, 30k miles, last 15k stock injectors :0 ) I may get a KC300x stg 3 with a .84
3. Pushrods, I think any 'stage 1' should be enough right?
4. Plan is new 4-line feed, and I need to decide to build another dual SD pump setup or go AD. Probably sump either way.
5. If I have ICP issues or as a future upgrade, I'll either grab the HPOP off my other truck (held psi with this setup), or go CNC stg 2.

Anything I'm forgetting?
Feel free to give input like 'above x psi you need this' or 'at 4,000 rpm you need these.'
I believe this should be a solid 500+hp driver.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

What size injectors do you have?

Am I reading this right, you want 500+ hp at 4000 rpm?

Or just looking for 500+ hp and have the ability to spin the engine up to 4000 rpm?

 

[BrewTown]

Injectors are 230/100s. Sorry, I probably should have also thrown that in the text.

The 4000 RPM was just an example of a threshold, not what I'm looking for. Like saying: above 40 psi boost you need head studs. I just want to understand at what point you need certain parts/upgrades. Years ago, tickling 400hp on PMRs was asking for a window, now seems 500 is somewhat acceptable.

The 500hp remark is just an estimate based on other combos out there. Irate 500hp combos say they are doing 530/1100 on 205/30s with a 369. KC Street package has 205/30s and a 63mm .84 turbo making just over 500. I originally put this combo together in late 2015, I never hit a dyno though.

Short story long, I'm looking for info like: at xx boost you need this. At xxxx RPM you need this. At xxx hp you need this.
Nothing fancy, just current conventional thinking. I'm not 16 anymore, and haven't driven like that in 20+ years...

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Okay, I think I understand where you are coming from.

At 500hp you will be fine with your stock bottom end, as long as the tuner does his part. As in, good timing tables and tuning that does not create high pressure spikes in the cylinder. Your 230/100 will have no problem supplying the fuel for 500+ hp. I do believe with the right supporting mods you could even tap 600+ hp.

If you are looking for 500+ hp and the ability to spin 4000k rpm, here is some mods you will want IMHO.

You already have the injectors (230/100) to do the 500 hp you want, and more if wanted.

HPOP, I would look into a adrenaline or as you mentioned a CNC stage two.

Now for fuel to supply the injectors. Dual SD pumps is not a bad idea. The factory fuel bowl will be adequate in this situation. But if you do not want to keep it, that's fine as well. CNC made/makes a cheap kit that works with the stock SD fuel bowl. A sump is not needed.

I would do shimed 910 valve springs or the equivalent to handle the higher rpm, 40 psi of boost and back pressure.

Stage one pushrods, to handle the higher rpm, 40 psi of boost and back pressure.

ARP head studs or equivalent. If it's a seasoned block, head combo do them one at a time.

If your looking to keep the factory style turbo, then a GTP38R , Garret or KC turbo will do. If you want a .84 A/R exhaust housing then you will, without a dought, want to gate it. I do believe KC has the better/bigger exhaust wheel. I would lean that way.

Built Transmission to hold it all together.

Last but not least, tuning. Pick somebody who has a good track record with the injector/turbo combo. Matt@Gearhead used to be know for good tunes for that combo. I am sure he still has the tunes needed for the job and will tweak them as needed. Times have changed though. I am not up to speed on the tuners out there now. I do my own tuning.

If this is not what you are looking for, yell at me. LOL

 

[BrewTown]

Quick recap, I already have 230/100s (yes P.I.S.), 1st Gen KC38R (late '15 W/1.0 housing), new up-pipes, Hydra, full 4" exhaust. I also have a stage 2 Wyse 4R100 on order. Currently also have the original cnc 4-line feed, but I did something transferring from one truck to another so 1 line seeps. I'm planning on a new cnc bowl removed 4-line to remedy that. And it looks clean!

I had PHP tunes with those injectors, which I thought were fantastic. It was a ZF6 truck, so trans tuning I forsee being the biggest hurdle. Someday I'd like to tune myself also. Too many irons in the fire to add that currently. The thing I really liked about that tuning was it felt like a 500+ hp truck. Low throttle made good power. GH tunes I had on my sold 6.0 were super soft at low throttle. Felt stock. I know they are a great company and I'll probably get tunes from a few, AA, Jeli and GH probably.

HPOP I'm going to wait and see. I had solid ICP in the ZF6 truck, just a healthy stocker as far as I know. Those pumps are top of my list, probably lean to Corey because he was my provider of the stuff I have.

100% good with shimmed 910s if that's enough. I just wasn't sure the crossover point to beehives. No I'm not looking for 4k rpm.

At what point are headstuds thrown in? I thought I was in that territory? One at a time, preserve those 276k HGs... Do I just not have that 40psi limit with studs?

Without high rpm or heavy valve springs, stg 1 pushrods are good. Got it

I made a dual SD fuel system for my 6.0. NAPA bases, fed rear of the heads and regulated the return from the front. I may sump and do it again. May draw straw. Either way I monitor pressure so I'll figure it out.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

I just got back in, to say you will want head studs as well. (I forgot to add that to the list)And saw you asked about them. Yes you will want studs. ARP studs work just fine.

I have shimed 910s as well, with Smith brother push rods and 300/200 injectors and have seen a little north of 4k rpm and well over 40 psi of boost with no problems. You will be fine. The heads are held down by ARPs. Did them one at time.

Other post updated to have studs needed.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Your injectors are 230/100s? I just caught that. I did not know P.I.S did 230/100 injectors?? 238/100 and 250/100 are the common sizes.

 

[BrewTown]

Your injectors are 230/100s? I just caught that. I did not know P.I.S did 230/100 injectors?? 238/100 and 250/100 are the common sizes.

Yep. At least in '15 Tim did. I really don't know what they are, because didn't he say long ago that he rated them at certain parameters, where other builders rated max flow above what was possible in truck. However he said it, I thought he was saying they would flow more than others 238s. Really have no idea.

I do know some tuners struggled with tuning idle, because whatever oil side mods he supposedly did. PHP had them dialed without revisions, nice and smooth.
If I do end up having issues as some others have, 238/80s would get the nod.


I'll save the 300-350/200s for that upcoming '60 F100 project. AWD, 4 wheel independent suspension, 4 wheel disc, compounds... My someday dream as a street driver. Unconventional

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Gotcha. Tim did say his would outflow other of the same size. The faster the oil gets in and out, the more fuel they will flow.


Most mods we do above what's needed is unconventional.

 

[hucorey]

If you end up not having time to build the dual stock fuel pumps, the AirDog 5G is a nice pump. They updated the poppet style regulator to a diaphragm style. I've had the 4G on my shop truck for 5yrs with 238/100's and it's done very well.

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