leaking up pipes

99powerstroke7.3 · Mar 14, 2013

any bright ideas on how to tackle this nightmare not looking forward to this project

campbellflage · Mar 14, 2013

are you gonna replace them or fix?

woodduck97 · Mar 14, 2013

Replace them with bellowed up pipes not new donuts. Much easier and you wont have to worry about them again.

99powerstroke7.3 · Mar 14, 2013

most likely replace for now cause truck is e99 and those puppies are about 900 bucks

campbellflage · Mar 14, 2013

Yeah they are $$$$, just soak the crap outta it with pb blaster the night before. ill have to look it up but i think people were having better results with chevy doughnuts instaed of the ford ones. ill see if i can find the part number.

woodduck97 · Mar 14, 2013

The ones from riff raff aint worth a **** I know that. Mine are like wastegates now cause they are leaking so bad. I would try these from what people are saying from another thread I started about mine leaking. Said it is a different matterial and they crush nicer.

Jomax · Mar 14, 2013

I would Wait and save money for new upipes. would suck to do all that work and still leak. I hated it when I did mine. I would start soaking the bolts a week before twice a day. Made the job a ton easier for me.

woodduck97 · Mar 14, 2013

Jomax said:
I would Wait and save money for new upipes. would suck to do all that work and still leak. I hated it when I did mine. I would start soaking the bolts a week before twice a day. Made the job a ton easier for me.

Exactly why I was pissed off after I did all that work and now they leak worse.

CSIPSD · Mar 14, 2013

woodduck97 said:
The ones from riff raff aint worth a **** I know that. Mine are like wastegates now cause they are leaking so bad. I would try these from what people are saying from another thread I started about mine leaking. Said it is a different matterial and they crush nicer.

Lets be clear here...

The ones from RiffRaff are stock replacements from FORD... So what your saying in fact is the one's from FORD are crap...

I've never had issues assuming the pipes are not galled to hell, if the pipes are wore out, then no amount of new gasket is going to fix that.

littleredstroker · Mar 14, 2013

I just got done using the riff RAF blue felpro gaskets on mine. I took the pipes, ground them smooth then took them to a exhaust shop and had them swell the ends up so they were tight in the collector. I pulled my turbo, its never been off in 185k miles and I didn't have a.problem with the clamp. I put a deep socket and 6 inch extension on the clamp, then loosened, then smacked the ext. With a hammer till it moved freely. It was cake

sent while needing more cowbell

woodduck97 · Mar 14, 2013

CSIPSD said:
Lets be clear here...

The ones from RiffRaff are stock replacements from FORD... So what your saying in fact is the one's from FORD are crap...

I've never had issues assuming the pipes are not galled to hell, if the pipes are wore out, then no amount of new gasket is going to fix that.

The ones from riff raff say they are for some exhuast for some 80's veichle and made by fel pro. Also my up pipes are not rotted out galled and worn out.

I had another set we were going to do on my buddies SD and after we seen how mine were we were not doing it. Also I tried to smash the ones I didnt use on a bench with a hammer and it wasnt that easy.

Justin@DP-Tuner · Mar 14, 2013

The ones Riffraff sells are Fel-Pro 8194. They are not Ford OEM. They were actually for older Chevy 350's and the like.

These are the better ones. They are a graphite like material that will crush a lot easier.

PatMan · Mar 14, 2013

I'm doing the donut fix myself. Yes, it's not a 'permanent' fix.
But $10 in parts vs. $400+ for the IH Up-pipes, and a couple hours labor for something
that's just a DD and Tow Rig makes a bit for financial sense.
Now once you're doing some modding and maybe some heavy boost - going to the IH or even the Dorman up-pipes may make a lot more sense.

campbellflage · Mar 14, 2013

Carquest #F17250

edit.. My bad Justin already posted it.

Old OutLaw · Mar 14, 2013

get the Victor Reinz ones like Justin posted.....

just a couple things....pick up ALL new bolts - nuts...and a can of never seize.....

never sieze the bolts, nuts, flanges, AND the doughnuts completely, even inside the donuts and flanges...Everywhere.....

thatway, when you go to pull them up tight, you can get them tight, because not only will you be able to crank on those new bolts, thing swill Slip together better.....

after you think you get them tight, take a 2 lb hammer and beat the crap outta everything, and tighten them again, Twice....

then take it for a ride, get it hot, and do it all over again....

then they will stay about as good as it's gonna get....

99powerstroke7.3 · Mar 15, 2013

any ideas on the best way to remove been digging under the hood and having a hard time with the bolts on the top of flange by turbo... would it be easier to remove from manifolds//// if so how do i line them back up once i change gaskets??? any input would help these damn things are driving me crazyyy

Arisley · Mar 15, 2013

PB Blaster is your friend. So are lots of extensions and wobble sockets.

Easy Peazy if the transmission is out.

campbellflage · Mar 15, 2013

99powerstroke7.3 said:
any ideas on the best way to remove been digging under the hood and having a hard time with the bolts on the top of flange by turbo... would it be easier to remove from manifolds//// if so how do i line them back up once i change gaskets??? any input would help these damn things are driving me crazyyy

PB blaster and a thin screw driver. After you get the clamp bolt loose, pry inbetween the clamp and the uppipe where the clamp is separated at the end. Not sure if that makes sense. I usually loosen the clamp bolt all the way untill I can get the T end out of the other side of the clamp, then pry. Similar fassion to get the exhaust clamp off. hope that helps