Limits of Stock Forged Rod Motor?

[under construction]

I have started buying some parts for the motor build that I want to complete for the 97 in my signature but have some questions. Everything that I have read and have been led to know as true is that the stock bottom end is limited to around 600 RWHP + or -. Is this the case? I don,t really have the money nor do I want to do a full competition build at this point and time. However I do want to achieve the most HP that I can and not worry about the truck blowing up everytime I hit the skinny pedal (I also realize that this is always a possiblity). What is everyones thoughts on the matter? Is there a good set of mid grade rods out there that I don't know about? Everything I have looked at is around $3000.00. Also what set up would you run if it were your motor with 600RWHP or a little more being the goal (Turbo, Injectors, HPOP?)

PS - I want to try to stay around a 2.6 class charger because it may see the sled some just for fun as it does now.

 

[Viking]

From all I have read the limits are up and down. some go early around 500 some hold to 700hp. I suspect how the engine was built and tuning will determine the life of forged rods.

 

[under construction]

That has been my findings also. I am currently in the 450RWHP range and the truck has held up and performed well but as always I want more. However I dont want to take it to far. If I am going to spend the time and money I would like it to hold together.

 

[2002FordPwr]

I will be starting a build soon. This is a question that comes up a lot. Really kind find a defiant answer. Will cryno treating them make them stronger? Is it really worth going to a 3000.00 rod? My fear is the reliability issue. I don't want to fear throwing something every time i give it some fuel, but roughly 3000.00 grand for rods is a big chunk to chew. Is there a mid grade rod that people are running?

Thanks

 

[ToMang07]

I will be starting a build soon. This is a question that comes up a lot. Really kind find a defiant answer. Will cryno treating them make them stronger? Is it really worth going to a 3000.00 rod? My fear is the reliability issue. I don't want to fear throwing something every time i give it some fuel, but roughly 3000.00 grand for rods is a big chunk to chew. Is there a mid grade rod that people are running?

Thanks

I haven't used them yet, but I cryo treated my rods, just for the extra assurance.

 

[under construction]

I have the same question regarding cryoed rods. I have not been able to find much data on them or many people running them. ToMang07 where did you get your rods done and what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking?

 

[ToMang07]

I have the same question regarding cryoed rods. I have not been able to find much data on them or many people running them. ToMang07 where did you get your rods done and what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking?

I used these guys....

http://www.nitrofreeze.com/

It was $100 plus shipping both ways. Had them back in just over a week.

Basically they do a batch every Friday, freeze them at -300*F until sunday, at which time they bring them back up to room temp. Theyt package and return ship on Monday. :thumbup:

 

[Rideracelivemx7]

I plan on doing the same treatment and crossy fingers when I reach 600

 

[Charles]

If you're not going to put decent rods in an engine, halo plate and cut the bowls, just leave it alone. No sense in wasting any effort on an engine with stock rods. They come that way. If you don't want to swap the rods, then just leave it alone and let it eat.

Because for heaven's sake.... if you're going to tear an engine COMPLETELY apart, machine the block and reinstall everything with rings, bearings and all new seals then put some rods in it. Otherwise.... yep... just leave the thing alone.

There is no in between IMO. The money in machine costs, gaskets and labor do NOT support the idea of doing ANYTHING with a stock rod on an engine that you're spending the time to tear down.

Rock them to 5, 6 or 700rwhp in a factory longblock, but if you're tearing something apart, put some rods in it. Again... otherwise just leave the thing alone because tearing an engine apart and putting it RIGHT back together again with NO cool new parts is EXPENSIVE.... and you're no better off than the motor you started with...

To sum up...

Rock a stock longblock and let it eat.... OR tear an engine down and put aftermarket rods in it. No in-betweens.

I wouldn't push a stock longblock to over 500 on a consistent basis if I was very blowup averse. If I could handle a blowup, I'd go 600ish.

 

[Viking]

So just like my sig says....no in-betweensies

 

[under construction]

Charles this is the grand dabate I am having in my head and with my wallet at this very moment. The motor I have has just shy of 200,000 on it. I thought about putting all new gaskets in it as more or less of an excuse to check everything out and make sure it is in good working order before I throw 6 or 7 hundred horse at it. I dont have the money at this time to do a full build which is why I don't want to do any machining or rods. However if it is going to make more sense to tear it all the way down and go about it that way it is going to become more of a long term project. I also don't want to spend the money on it and be looking for another motor a couple months later. I am just trying to be smart about this. This is one of those things that can be an endless circle. I am just trying to find the best place to draw a line and still be happy with my efforts and money spent.

 

[ToMang07]

Charles this is the grand dabate I am having in my head and with my wallet at this very moment. The motor I have has just shy of 200,000 on it. I thought about putting all new gaskets in it as more or less of an excuse to check everything out and make sure it is in good working order before I throw 6 or 7 hundred horse at it. I dont have the money at this time to do a full build which is why I don't want to do any machining or rods. However if it is going to make more sense to tear it all the way down and go about it that way it is going to become more of a long term project. I also don't want to spend the money on it and be looking for another motor a couple months later. I am just trying to be smart about this. This is one of those things that can be an endless circle. I am just trying to find the best place to draw a line and still be happy with my efforts and money spent.

I know IF I go the rebuild route... I'm buying one of these kits, machined bowls, having the block machined, and going all-out. Of course, that's a "when I get the money" project, which won't be any time soon.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/m...roduct_Code=2C3Z6R007A&Category_Code=F731-OEM

 

[Vader's Fury]

Look at it this way. You can probably buy 2-3 good long blocks for that 3000 you will spend for rods. Unless you have a def hp number that you must reach. (Dedicated sled puller or drag racer) take some of that 3000 and buy a good spare long block. I just purchased one for $800. Build yours up to whatever hp number you want to play at and let her eat. If she blows, pull all your parts off that motor and throw them in the spare. Then just have your hp pulled back in your tuning and go on your way. Purchase another spare block for a "just in case" and you are good to go.

The only way I see this being an issue is if you travel long distances regularly or you are not mechanically inclined. If that is the case then a "built" motor is where you need to be for your goal.

 

[2002FordPwr]

great advice guys.. thanks

 

[under construction]

I too have a spare motor that I purchased complete for 800 which is the reason that I am leaning the let it eat route. Lol. I however think that I am going to put all the new parts on the one on the stand and then just swap the motor in and leave the one out of the truck as a spare. Easier to due head studs and all while it is out of the truck.

 

[Charles]

Fwiw.... taking apart a 200,000 mile motor and putting it right back together does nothing but WEAKEN it...

Let it eat.... or..... tear it apart and stuff some rods, halo and cut pistons in the mix.

If you're only planning on running a 2.6ish charger, just let it eat.

 

[under construction]

Charles, thanks for the advise. That is the route that I am going for now. Would you at least do head gaskets, studs, oil pan gasket, etc.?

 

[onebad7.3]

Charles, thanks for the advise. That is the route that I am going for now. Would you at least do head gaskets, studs, oil pan gasket, etc.?

Don't replace the head gaskets, I'd do studs, there isn't an oil pan gasket.

 

[under construction]

Why not on the head gaskets? I know that the oil pan gasket is just rtv. Sorry about that. I wanted to remove the heads to inspect the cylinders and change valve springs. or at least that was my plan. Are you just saying this because they are already seasoned?

 

[ToMang07]

Why not on the head gaskets? I know that the oil pan gasket is just rtv. Sorry about that. I wanted to remove the heads to inspect the cylinders and change valve springs. or at least that was my plan. Are you just saying this because they are already seasoned?

If you're replacing headstuds, do the headgasket too.

And I personally would not pull the oil pan unless I had a reason...like replacement. JMO.