Low boost, high egt's, and other stuff thats broke

Copracr · Sep 15, 2012

I'd like to start a thread to try and get my truck running tops. Here's what I have:
First off, low boost. I've had my truck 40k miles and i've never been over 7-8psi. I always assumed it was the up pipes leaking and the spider leaking. While the engine was out 5k ago I replaced the up pipe donuts and got the spider on perfect (double checked). Still only making 7 psi at WOT.
When driving at part throttle it behaves normal and will shoot up to 7 psi but when it gets there it's like the gause is broke and it just stops at 7. I did try another gauge. When it's WOT I can hear a lot of air escaping noise. I unplugged the wastegate vacuum line to no effect, and pressure test found a missing o-ring between the turbo and spider - replaced to no effect.
My EBPV was deleted from the pedestal and the valve wired open while the motor was out - to no effect. I replaced the EBP tube because it was completely blocked off, but I didn't replace the sensor. I assume it's crudded shut though. Not sure that can cause my problem so I havent fooled with it any further. My turbo looks ok on both sides with no sideplay. My K+N looks dirty and I'm thinking I should pull it and see if that helps.

My second problem is my EGT's (measured in the driver side manifold). at idle its around 400, light cruising around hits about 800, but on long highway inclines it can get 1100/1200 on steep grades. Boost at flat cruise around 70 is 4-ish but when it pegs at 7psi the EGT starts climbing. If I get more boost will this lower my EGT's?

I have a snap on mt2500 brick but i'm not sure what to check next. I ordered some tunes for it but I'm not excited about installing them on a broke engine. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any assisstance.

caladash · Sep 15, 2012

Did you do another boost leak check after the o-ring was replaced?

Copracr · Sep 15, 2012

caladash said:
Did you do another boost leak check after the o-ring was replaced?

Yes, but it barely leaked without the o-ring installed.

Magnum PD · Sep 15, 2012

Need to do a leak test. Maybe your turbo.

TARM · Sep 15, 2012

Could be the WG opening. Try locking it down all the way or wire the arm to keep it completely shut all the time. See what you get then.

The EGTS likely are tied into the boost issues as well. Make sure you have no exhuast leaks between the heads and turbo turbine. The up-pipe to manifold connection can also be a point of leakage.

Maybe a bad MAP sensor

The EBPS if not working correctly clogged etc can effect fueling and trans shifting. The sensor needs to be working. You can T it into your MAP line or use boost instead of actual EBP from the manifold and it will work as well. Depending if you are running tunes and who's tunes they are you have have it also just read to atmosphere but the sensor does need to be on there and functioning.

Do you have a scanner or AutoEnginuity to read codes etc. If you plan to work on these trucks or really any newer auto I suggest pickup up AE. It will save you way more than it costs in no time just with the time it save let alone all the cost of throwing parts at something without being sure if it will be the fix or not.

Copracr · Sep 15, 2012

I have a snap on scanner, the old one that looks like a brick. It has a 2001 ford cartridge for it so it should do what I need it too.
I thought that by unplugging the WG I would rule out that being the issue, but I will try wiring it in the closed position and try it.

What is the right range for the MAPsensor? I will check that first since its easy.

And how would I T the EPBS into the MAP? You mean the wires?

TARM · Sep 15, 2012

That will prevent it from having the actuator open the gate but if the gate is broken or spring really weak it can be opened from the drive pressure itself. You will see many that end up wiring the shut as they still gate from the pressure alone.

You could put a multimeter on it and see what its producing. It s a .5-4.5 volt. You could put air to it and see what its reading based on the pressure.

Once you get these issues worked out looking at your mod list do yourself a favor and upgrade your fuel system to a RR. Even in a stock truck I would run one if for nothing else than to have the injectors last longer.

Copracr · Sep 15, 2012

Thanks tarm, I'll get on those tests this week . I was thinking of going to a rr but I worried I would need the heater in the fuel bowl for those cold Ohio winters . Any thoughts?

johnholman · Sep 16, 2012

Do the RR without the fuel bowl delete

Bigsexy · Sep 16, 2012

Does it seem to be shifting fine?

Copracr · Sep 16, 2012

Yea, it shifts great, firm but not too much. TC lockup is a little loose at mid throttle though

TARM · Sep 16, 2012

I have never seen a person have an issue with a RR from the removal of the bowl heater.
The filters most use suck. The bowls leak crack are in the way just about all the time when you are working on the engine. IMO its just one more thing to break you can get rid of. They do a terrible job of sep water. The Napa, Wix, Carquest, chain store filters do not come remotely close to the ford IH rating for microns (10-30mics vs 5mic) which is still 2x what is considered ideal today (2-3mics)

If you havn't guessed I am not a fan of the fuel bowl LOL But I am a bit of an idealist.

Bigsexy · Sep 17, 2012

Did you ever resolve your issue?

Copracr · Sep 17, 2012

TARM said:
I have never seen a person have an issue with a RR from the removal of the bowl heater.
The filters most use suck. The bowls leak crack are in the way just about all the time when you are working on the engine. IMO its just one more thing to break you can get rid of. They do a terrible job of sep water. The Napa, Wix, Carquest, chain store filters do not come remotely close to the ford IH rating for microns (10-30mics vs 5mic) which is still 2x what is considered ideal today (2-3mics)

If you havn't guessed I am not a fan of the fuel bowl LOL But I am a bit of an idealist.

What about the fuel heater? it hits 0 degrees and negative wind chills around here.

Bigsexy said:
Did you ever resolve your issue?

If i'm lucky I'll have time on wednesday to try out these suggestions. Between work and school i'm lucky to have a half day a week to play with my truck. I always return results for help offered though, hopefully its helpful for the next guy. I know I've fixed a lot of stuff over the years reading other peoples threads.

TyCorr · Sep 17, 2012

Cpracrct-the fuel bowl heater doesn't do shti, isn't worth a shti, and is.shti. I never had trouble.with mine until two years ago when it grounded out. I hesitated at first, but at the behest of Curtis, I removed it and it changed absolutely nothing. A good winter additive will.do MORE than that thing ever could. Seriously, you don't need it. I've seen -10 and windy since removing mine and with Power Services white bottle it starts right up, unplugged, after two gp keycycles. It ain't no thang, as they say.