Low boost, high egt's, and other stuff thats broke

[Copracr]

I wired the WG closed and it made no difference. I assume this means it has a leak or a bad turbo?
I also checked the MAP kPa and it sits at 98 and peaks at 140 during 7psi runs, the MAP Hz sits at 0 and doesn't move. EBP sits at .92 and goes up to 1.4v.

 

[TARM]

Time to pressure test the boost side of the system. Do a search and fine how to make a boost tester. A torn boot or one with a slit right next to the clamp will dump any pressure the turbo makes. You would be surprise how small of a hole it takes to drop a ton of boost.

 

[Copracr]

Well, I got bigger problems now. No start for about a week.

When I try to start it I will get a 1/4 second of crank, then it stops or nearly stops for about a second, then keeps cranking till I turn the key to the off position. I never get it running but it is putting out thick white smoke.
I cleaned up the battery cables, checked the voltage while cranking (9-10.5V), checked the starter relay and found the small terminal goes on and off with the start position like it's supposed to but the starter wire stays hot after I hear the solenoid click off.

I ordered another battery to starter cable, but I think mines fine. I just replaced the starter solenoid on the starter in july with a napa replacement. If the cable makes no improvement I guess I'll throw a starter at it?

What I dont get is why I have a no start? Once it starts cranking it's spinning plenty fast enough to start. And if I manually jump the starter while the key is off it doesn't stay on. Is there anything to test before the starter cable gets here?

 

[Lamont_24]

Could be the WG opening. Try locking it down all the way or wire the arm to keep it completely shut all the time. See what you get then.

The EGTS likely are tied into the boost issues as well. Make sure you have no exhuast leaks between the heads and turbo turbine. The up-pipe to manifold connection can also be a point of leakage.

Maybe a bad MAP sensor

The EBPS if not working correctly clogged etc can effect fueling and trans shifting. The sensor needs to be working. You can T it into your MAP line or use boost instead of actual EBP from the manifold and it will work as well. Depending if you are running tunes and who's tunes they are you have have it also just read to atmosphere but the sensor does need to be on there and functioning.


Do you have a scanner or AutoEnginuity to read codes etc. If you plan to work on these trucks or really any newer auto I suggest pickup up AE. It will save you way more than it costs in no time just with the time it save let alone all the cost of throwing parts at something without being sure if it will be the fix or not.

I saw you said something about the exhaust back pressure deal, my truck is throwing a code saying it doesn't have enough back pressure and shifts really weird. Is that the problem?

 

[TARM]

That sounds like an issue with your exhaust back pressure sensor which is located right in front of the HPOP access plate ont eh front cover. It is right next to the heater hose that goes into the top of the water pump. That sensor is bad or the metal tube that comes up from the passenger side exhaust manifold to it is clogged and yes it will effect shifting. Take a look at the the replacement Dennis @ strictly diesel has for it if you need a new tube. It puts the tube off the front of the HPOP plate and the plate that he has in the kit has a oring so not leaking from it and no need for sealant. Another option is to run a hose from your MAP boost hose (put a T into the line) and run that to the EBPS. The boost will keep it operating correct and may actually offer improvements. Or just do it the factory way replace the sensor and tube. I would first try checking the tube. If its still in good condition not rusted much then clean it with pipe cleaner or wire. If not get the Strictly kit. If its the sensor only then pick one up from Ford.

 

[Lamont_24]

Okay I'll check it out. Thank you

 

[TARM]

Copracr,

The thick white smoke is likely fuel; smell it to confirm. Its not burning so you are getting raw fuel out the tailpipe.

Now you say it starts to crank and then stops. Does it song like it trying to turn the engine over and it can't. Then it frees up and it cranks? that is the way I am reading your post. If so that sounds like you may have a cylinder filled up with fuel and its almost hydro locked and why it can barely turn over but once it gets the fuel out it turns over. That sounds like a injector issue. Dave ( Golfer ) Is the expert around here IMO. So hopefully he or someone with more knowledge than I will correct anything if I get it wrong here:

Cracked Injector cup maybe. If it were to crack down low I would think fuel could dump into the cylinder. Check your coolant and see if you see or smell fuel in it.

Another idea would be a worn or damaged copper washer than then allow the bottom oring to get melted allowing once again fuel to drain into the cylinder.

Blown or broke nozzle would as I have first hand knowledge of what it can do.

I will say until you figure it out or unless I am miss understanding the symptoms and its not hard to turn over stop trying to start it as you could do damage.

Maybe try turning it over by hand from the harmonic balance bolt with the belt off. You should be able to turn it over well under the tq level the bolt is tightened to. If not that would make me think a filled cylinder/s.

Lets see if Golfer or someone else has something to offer.

 

[Denver]

Is the turbo good and are you collapsing the intake boost that feeds the turbo when the turbo spools up?

 

[TARM]

Thinking of others that had boost issues LOL

 

[Copracr]

OK, fuel is dripping out the tail pipe, the coolant overflow was empty and smelled a lot like gasoline (mixture of diesel and red coolant maybe?). I did hear a knock sound once a revolution while cranking but not loud enough to be a rod bearing - it was more tinny.

I just replaced the injector cups while the motor was out 5k miles ago and have had coolant level issues the whole time. I think I had a cup leaking and it finally gave out. Compression test next? I'm thinking pull the valve covers and GP's and crank it to see where fluid flies out to pin down the cylinder/cylinders.

 

[TARM]

Yep be sure to pull ALL of those GPs. Crank and see who pisses. Hopefully you did not bend any thing with the cranking. I turn mine over by hand any time from the harmonic bolt with the belt off just to be safe after a injector pull. Now I have gotten smart and I pull the oil rail plug and suck all the oil out prior to pulling the injectors. Only get about a teaspoon of oil and get cloth in there and catch most of even that. Do the same with the HPOP Reservoir as I hate having to clean up all the oil from pulling it or the HPOP.

The more I work on these engines the more I like having them cleaner and cleaner. I wish I had the guts to power wash but for me there are just to many sensor wires etc. A good squirt bottle engine cleaner and brushes and my compressor suction tool and wet dry vac hose with a small adapter end. Clean engines makes finding leaks etc so much easier and its nice working on them when you do not end up with your hands covered in grease and can not hold anything tight etc....

 

[Copracr]

Passenger side cover off, andhere's a pic:

I couldnt wait so I cranked it and none of them pissed. It did seem like the 3rd one back blew a bit more mist than the others though.

Any thoughts? I got a compression tester and I will use it once I replace the 90 degree elbow that it came with.

 

[golfer]

I would put air pressure INTO the glowplug hole(s)...

bar the engine over to see if you see pressure building in the coolant jug.

could be a cracked block...

if you can position a piston (through engine rotating) to obscure the potential crack in a cyl wall...and stop the cooling sys pressurization...then it's the block.

if the pressure is always on the cooling system (fed through GP holes), regardless of piston position, then it could be inj cup, or head gasket.

I've just never seen a cup fail in that manner.

you could also do the reverse of this procedure...pressurize cooling system with air...and bar engine over listening for air escaping up through the GP hole (and/or inj cup bores)..but again..if piston position changes/eliminates the 'leak'...then it's the block.

did you say you had the engine out recently?

For what reason, and which part(s) were replaced?

 

[Copracr]

WEll, its too late for this engine. Almost no compression on cyl 1 and under 250 on another. And I haven't even pulled the driver side yet.
I can assume I hydrolocked it when I thought it had a bad battery cable. And its been doing that for about a month before failure.

****

 

[Copracr]

I would put air pressure INTO the glowplug hole(s)...

bar the engine over to see if you see pressure building in the coolant jug.

could be a cracked block...

if you can position a piston (through engine rotating) to obscure the potential crack in a cyl wall...and stop the cooling sys pressurization...then it's the block.

if the pressure is always on the cooling system (fed through GP holes), regardless of piston position, then it could be inj cup, or head gasket.

I've just never seen a cup fail in that manner.

you could also do the reverse of this procedure...pressurize cooling system with air...and bar engine over listening for air escaping up through the GP hole (and/or inj cup bores)..but again..if piston position changes/eliminates the 'leak'...then it's the block.

did you say you had the engine out recently?

For what reason, and which part(s) were replaced?

I replaced the injector cups while I had the engine out about 5k ago. I was swapping the engine into this Ex from an E99 f250 and wanted to run ELC. I must have done a pretty crappy job

 

[Lamont_24]

WEll, its too late for this engine. Almost no compression on cyl 1 and under 250 on another. And I haven't even pulled the driver side yet.
I can assume I hydrolocked it when I thought it had a bad battery cable. And its been doing that for about a month before failure.

****

When you thought it was a bad battery cable did all of the dash/radio turn off after you turned it over?

 

[Copracr]

When you thought it was a bad battery cable did all of the dash/radio turn off after you turned it over?

It would start to crank, then it would not crank for a few seconds and I would put the key in the run position, and then the engine would start cranking until I put the key to the off position. It was weird.

I knew it had to be in the starter cause I unhooked the starter from the fender solenoid and jumped it manually. When I did that with the key turned on it would continue to crank after the jumper wire I used was removed and I walked around the truck and turned the key off. I think I was getting some kind of feedback in the starter circuit that was keeping the starter solenoid open.

But either way I have coolant under my valve cover, fuel and compression in my coolant, no compression in at least 1 cylinder, and the oil level is too high from something.

 

[TARM]

When it started to crank that flooded the cylinders and they hydrolocked. Wait a bit they drained and you could crank etc.... Sounds like you have blown engine.

 

[Lamont_24]

I was just curious cause I had a terminal go bad and it would almost crank and then stop and everything would shut off and I didn't know what kind of symptoms you were having with the possible bad cable

 

[Copracr]

I was just curious cause I had a terminal go bad and it would almost crank and then stop and everything would shut off and I didn't know what kind of symptoms you were having with the possible bad cable

Sorry, but yes it would crank a half second, everything would go dead for 1-2 seconds and I moved the key to the run position, then eveything wakes up and the starter would begin cranking until I turned the key to off.

But here's the update:
I figured I had bad injector o rings and/or cups. It was either that or I smoked the engine, so I set out to fix the issues I could. I bought a compression tester, an adapter so I could use my coolant pressure tester, and my big purchase was the whitaker cup tool and o-ring kit.

1st cylinder on passenger side had no compression. I had bought a 5 dollar adapter that was made to do compression tests on pre-powerstrokes and I had to R+R the 1st rocker arm to R+R the tester itself. Turns out I didn't have the pushrod seated right or something because it was bowed real bad. I stuck the pushrod in a crack in the floor and whacked it with a hammer as straight as I could get it (which was still noticeably bowed) and the compression comes up into the 200's now - woohoo. I have 2 pushrods on order and should be here any day now.

3rd cylinder back on the passenger side was low compression (low 200's), so I swapped out the cup and o-rings - meticulously. Compression is high 300's now.
4th and 2nd cylinders were high 300's, but I may re-do the cups before I button it up just to be safe.

My next move is install the new pushrod and see what the compression does. If it comes up I'll R+R the rest of the cups on that side. Then pull the other valve cover and repeat.

I was wondering though - If I get compression roughly equal in the high 300's across all 8 cylinders then blowby is necessarily good - right?