main studs and connecting rod bolts

P.I.S_7.3 · Nov 3, 2013

Rebuilding my motor now. Would there be any benefit to running arp main studs and arp rod bolts? Or is it ok to reuse the old hardware? The new motor will be running 300/200s and an s467

Powerstroked162 · Nov 3, 2013

Save your money. None of those will keep a weak rod from being weak

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P.I.S_7.3 · Nov 3, 2013

So bottom line a good set of connecting rods before anything

4.0l sahara · Nov 3, 2013

yes. rods,girdle,main studs,fill the block

tripletdairies · Nov 3, 2013

rods and studs will be just fine with that setup if your goals for more hp in future do the hard block now and be done with it pry 1.5" or so from the deck would be ok dont waste money on a girdle

Powerstroked162 · Nov 3, 2013

tripletdairies said:
rods and studs will be just fine with that setup if your goals for more hp in future do the hard block now and be done with it pry 1.5" or so from the deck would be ok dont waste money on a girdle

Why would you NOT do a main girdle? Walk is still knarly with one, it's even worse without. If I know anything, it's that you don't cheap out on motor builds that are going to see any type of power.

ARP connecting rod bolts/studs/whatever are hands down a giant waste of money on a PMR or Forged rod. Main studs on a stock cap without a girdle with those cheese ball rods inside the motor is a even BIGGER waste of money. Do you have experience with these mods? What results did you see?

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tripletdairies · Nov 3, 2013

aftermarket rods and studs would not be a waste of money.( sorry if i came across as just leaving the factory rods and adding studs) every engine is different. i run 400/400's in my sled truck with carrillo's, main studs, and a 1.75" fill. balanced the crank and checked alignment on mains after the hardblock was set up, no line boring was needed. ive ran this setup for two years now with no issues. also know trucks that needed to be line bored after the fill that have had no walk issues without a girdle. if your that concerned about a girdle mise well run a bedplate from swamps and fill it. dave will prolly tell you that they dont do many girdles anymore

Magnum PD · Nov 3, 2013

Girdles are a band aid compared to the bed plate. Just pricey. Hence why I stuck with the girdle.

neverkickn · Nov 3, 2013

Anyone ever pin the caps on a 7.3? I know it is common on high hp gasser builds. I don't know about a hollow dowel, but maybe a solid dowel on each side of the cap between the studs.

Powerstroke geniuses please advise!

Magnum PD · Nov 3, 2013

Good advice. ^^

If you need a camshaft, I got one.

Powerstroked162 · Nov 3, 2013

tripletdairies said:
aftermarket rods and studs would not be a waste of money.( sorry if i came across as just leaving the factory rods and adding studs) every engine is different. i run 400/400's in my sled truck with carrillo's, main studs, and a 1.75" fill. balanced the crank and checked alignment on mains after the hardblock was set up, no line boring was needed. ive ran this setup for two years now with no issues. also know trucks that needed to be line bored after the fill that have had no walk issues without a girdle. if your that concerned about a girdle mise well run a bedplate from swamps and fill it. dave will prolly tell you that they dont do many girdles anymore

Billet rods wasn't what the op was referring to, so it sounds like we agree.

As far as cranks go and keeping engines together, well.... I only know what I've done with a couple engines and what I've watched friends do with 75-100 engines. We'll just have to agree to disagree about how to do it.

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obspsd · Nov 5, 2013

Not Trying To derail But With Billet Rods, Girdle, And Main Studs Does It Still Help To Fill The Block? I'm Also Building A Motor With 350/200 And s468

Powerstroked162 · Nov 5, 2013

Everything helps but nothing prevents the block splitting at the cam journal, well except maybe a bed plate. I don't know who or what's been tested on one. They came to market right after just about everybody gave up and moved on lol

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Magnum PD · Nov 5, 2013

obspsd said:
Not Trying To derail But With Billet Rods, Girdle, And Main Studs Does It Still Help To Fill The Block? I'm Also Building A Motor With 350/200 And s468

Golfer recommends block fill even before a girdle. Makes block that much stronger.

obspsd · Nov 6, 2013

Ok Thank You Guys

P.I.S_7.3 · Nov 6, 2013

Is there any write ups for filling a block?

Magnum PD · Nov 6, 2013

Filling the block requires deck plates and main stud girdle in place to torque the block to simulate everything installed. Pretty sure one side of the block is done at a time and held so that side is flat for cement to cure flat. Then needs to set a while after that.

4.0l sahara · Nov 6, 2013

Could just bolt a head down after it is poured if you don't have a deck plate

DocBar · Nov 6, 2013

Magnum PD said:
Filling the block requires deck plates and main stud girdle in place to torque the block to simulate everything installed. Pretty sure one side of the block is done at a time and held so that side is flat for cement to cure flat. Then needs to set a while after that.

Interesting. I was always under the impression that both sides were done at the same time so the torquing would be identical to an installed motor. I never even considered one side being done at a time. Seems illogical to me.

smoker00 · Nov 6, 2013

DocBar said:
Interesting. I was always under the impression that both sides were done at the same time so the torquing would be identical to an installed motor. I never even considered one side being done at a time. Seems illogical to me.

This is what i was told also...But im not to sure.