MCC Tuning

[Dzchey21]

Eventually the vane control won't keep up with the amount of fuel. Most tables are set to 40 psi but we all know they make.much more than that. The key there is to open up the vanes faster. It takes boost to make boost... To a point.


Now on the back pressure thing costing.

50% vgt is much less than 95%

The important thing to watch for is actual back pressure at that rpm with whatever vgt duty cycle you want. Then you can see what actually differences there are.


Sure would be nice to make this changes on the fly

 

[B585Ford]

Eventually the vane control won't keep up with the amount of fuel. Most tables are set to 40 psi but we all know they make.much more than that. The key there is to open up the vanes faster. It takes boost to make boost... To a point.


Now on the back pressure thing costing.

50% vgt is much less than 95%


The important thing to watch for is actual back pressure at that rpm with whatever vgt duty cycle you want. Then you can see what actually differences there are.

Sure would be nice to make this changes on the fly

I already made the program using the "Hot Engine 1" as the only table I adjusted, but gotta get some sleep before work. I hope to try it tomorrow and I will post whatever I find out.

Regarding your first comments...
Exactly. I understand that. I am trying to understand why it follows the fuel tables (PW, RP) instead of following Desired BP. What I did was create a program that didn't allow it to follow all of the tables (it couldn't make the Desired BP by running the fuel that was in that program) so essentially, computer gives more priority to one table versus another. In this case, it followed the fuel tables, not the desired BP tables (once I hit the point where vane control couldn't help anymore). Is this something you just have to experiment to see what tables it will give more priority to? Thanks again for the help with that one...I was about ready to give up after my Desired BP adjustments and Vane Position adjustments didn't give me much.

So are you saying I went the wrong way with the vanes...I should have tried to make the vanes 5% instead of 95%?

Again, I appreciate everyone's help. I am able to do a lot more with my truck and for someone who still has a lot to learn, this has been a great learning tool.

 

[Dzchey21]

For more back pressure

95%

For less

5%

 

[Stroked777]

im doing this right now to my engine file and do you just do the transient table and the steady state table? and not touch the low boost limp table

 

[Kind]

im doing this right now to my engine file and do you just do the transient table and the steady state table? and not touch the low boost limp table

Yes on the transient and steady state.

 

[Stroked777]

ok so i just took a ride in the rig after doing this and from a stop and just punching it its seems kinda laggy, like takes 2 seconds before it really starts to come alive. is that normal? but when i floor it where it locks up 2-5 is really moves, should i bring up both tables 10% and see where that puts me? driving it like i would daily seems pretty good to me still responsive for how i drive, but when i need to pass or merge without much of a warning i feel ill be slow to get the speed climbing until it starts to light

 

[drunk on diesel]

If you used the tables from the beginning of this thread, it's going to be lazy. Very smoke free, but very lazy. Especially if you're running canned trans tunes that don't readily downshift

 

[Stroked777]

If you used the tables from the beginning of this thread, it's going to be lazy. Very smoke free, but very lazy. Especially if you're running canned trans tunes that don't readily downshift

im using it in conjuction with gearheads hybrid tune
what can i do to livin it up a bit? right not it doesnt even haze and im happy about that, just want to make it less lazy

 

[Stroked777]

i started with a hd300 file that had lbf on 5, i dont wanna go out and extact a new one so i changed all the numbers manually to the ones on the table, would i be better off startign with a hd300 file with lbf of 0 or higher?

 

[drunk on diesel]

no, it doesn't matter what you start with... what I would do is bring in full fuel about 35psi. I appreciate what Mike is doing with that table. He's very very tightly controlling soot. If you need to fly under the radar completely, that table is spot on.

but the difference between 35-40psi when you're standing on it is a millisecond... the biggest attention needs to be paid to the 0-10psi/0-15psi range depending on altitude, because that's where you barrel out soot from a stop or when you roll into it while cruising.

so bring in your 133mm3 at your 36psi column and blend that down to about 55mm3 at 10psi... then blend down from there to your current setting. If you look at how the H&S tables are, you can run a single value down an entire column.

Now, I see that you have a cam in the truck... typically, a cam lowers boost at a given air mass, so you may need to come up from there. The numbers I'm spitting work pretty good for me in a stock turbo/injector truck... far from perfect... and I actually don't run them in my trucks! LOL I still run Matt's tunes in all of my trucks! But whenever I have free time, I do like to tinker with tunes just to learn more for myself

but you may need to come up slightly across the board for your truck's combo/breathing abilities. Once you get the fuel curve adjusted, you can try multiplying the entire table by small increments to your liking.

 

[Stroked777]

no, it doesn't matter what you start with... what I would do is bring in full fuel about 35psi. I appreciate what Mike is doing with that table. He's very very tightly controlling soot. If you need to fly under the radar completely, that table is spot on.

but the difference between 35-40psi when you're standing on it is a millisecond... the biggest attention needs to be paid to the 0-10psi/0-15psi range depending on altitude, because that's where you barrel out soot from a stop or when you roll into it while cruising.

so bring in your 133mm3 at your 36psi column and blend that down to about 55mm3 at 10psi... then blend down from there to your current setting. If you look at how the H&S tables are, you can run a single value down an entire column.

Now, I see that you have a cam in the truck... typically, a cam lowers boost at a given air mass, so you may need to come up from there. The numbers I'm spitting work pretty good for me in a stock turbo/injector truck... far from perfect... and I actually don't run them in my trucks! LOL I still run Matt's tunes in all of my trucks! But whenever I have free time, I do like to tinker with tunes just to learn more for myself

but you may need to come up slightly across the board for your truck's combo/breathing abilities. Once you get the fuel curve adjusted, you can try multiplying the entire table by small increments to your liking.

thanks for that info. ill look into in and try to mess with it more. your right they table he as is perfect with no smoke at all, but like you said most my driving will stay under 15psi so i could keep it the same there but after that i could ramp up the fuel after that and smooth it out

EDIT, i just change the tables around, ill see how it works out, changed it and smoothed it its 133mm3 at 35psi and 54.96mm3 at 10 psi

 

[78f100]

I am going to start messing with my tuning tonight. Is there any special changes for dual fuelers? Forgive me I have never done this before. I am shooting to clean up my idle for now, since I went with 100℅ nozzles it hazes really bad. Its imbaressing to drive. I plan to start with the hd300 tune and go off it. Anyone wanting to help is welcome...lol.

 

[Dzchey21]

start by raising idle rail pressure to 7000-7500 that should clear most of it up, it will knock a little more but its not bad

Change the rail pressure tables so that the pressure comes up much faster than the standard hd300, this will make it drive much better and less smoke.

Thats where i would start, you should also raise the desired back pressure some, your turbos should follow the tables fairly well and be responsive. Just be sure that your crusing back pressure isnt too high our you will drink the fuel

 

[78f100]

Thanks Dustin, where should bp be at crusing? I can go back to some of my old files and log it while driving if needed.

 

[78f100]

To change rp at idle do I have to change it in all the different temp maps?

 

[Stroked777]

I think you have to do it in all, some of the tables are for differnt coolant temps

 

[Dzchey21]

sorry im not that good about checking this thread

You only really need to change the configuration 0 temp 1 i think thats your main pressure table. I think temp 2 is cold temp and you should probably bump that up to 10k, that should help cold start smoke too. I think there is something in there now about changing when the temps change from table to table so you can change that too, i havent messed with it just yet.

Crusing i would say over 10k light throttle and it should jump to 15k with very little input

 

[Stroked777]

I believe you are right, I do remember seeing a adjustment to change the temps for the temp tables

Edit: it's under TEMPERATURE DETERMINATION on the sub folder right under the engine control folder

Edit2: now I understand when the temp tables change but what causes the configuration tables to change, like what factors come into play at that point

 

[Dzchey21]

The temps arent always coolant temps, the configurations im not sure, that may just be another temperature table. Mike@hallers went thru and figured out what almost all of them are by plugging in sensor foolers to the harness and made adjustments. Maybe he will chime in and help you guys out with that but typically config 1 and 0 are all you will ever see