need help 6.0 no start. no ficm, cpm ckp sync

78f100

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Guys I'm pulling my hair out on this one. It was brought to me not running, had a bad hpo leak. This truck has a long history of no start s and has been in several shops. I replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs, oil cooler and stc fitting got it running but noticed the big plug on the ficm was melted on 5 pins, ficm was damaged on those pins also. Customer didn't want to spend the money for a new engine harness so I replaced the plug with a alliant power pigtail and new ficm. Twisted and soildered all wires one at a time (even though they are colorcoded) and heat srank them.
The truck ran perfect for me about 20 miles testing it out before the customer picked it up. He drove it about another 20 miles started skipping so he brought it back. I cranked it this morning pulled i n to the shop skipping and hasnt fired up since. Hpo is perfect, ficm test good, fuel pressure is good but no start.
I have been on it all day with the ids, only got a cmp code. I replaced cmp with new ford one, swapped ficm and pcm with my personal trucks, new ckp sensor, and new ipr and plug just for good measure.
Also the truck had a edge tuner on it I returned to stock and removed it, as I was unplugging the pcm connector from it water came out. Had a small amount of corrosion so I cleaned it out good. I have triple checked my splices, pinned out cmp signal to pcm, pinned out ficm plug its all good.
Everything is good but I cant get cmp/ckp sync or ficm sync.
Sorry if this isn't making sense I've been on it since about 8 this morning and just got home. Any insight will be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try to check the tone ring with my scope tomorrow. I feel like Its that or I'm losing cmp between pcm and ficm. Anyone know how cmp is relayed to ficm?
 
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jtgf250

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Been a lot of issues like that in my area lately for some reason. Buddy has a truck in his shop he's been messing with for close to 2 months.
I just worked on a friends truck that wouldn't start and ended up patching a bunch wires and replacing but splices with solder and heat shrink. Found the 50A fuse to FICM popped also. Make sure you got the 12V signal from the ignition to FICM as well.
But without SYNC it ain't gonna start. Check the harness good where it goes down to the cps.
Good Luck man, I was pulling my hair out on the one I did till buddy gave me wiring schematics for the FICM circuit.
 

Bustedknuckles

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Whats the cranking RPM showing? I had the same issue on one and it was a weak crank sensor sending out too low a rpm signal.
 

co04cobra

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I agree with above. What is the cranking RPMs and any corrosion on those PCMs pins has the potential to cause all sorts of issues.
 

78f100

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Well I have spent most of today on it and still no luck. I even put a wiring harness off my truck I have the cab off of with no change. Any ideas?
 

Bustedknuckles

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Well I have spent most of today on it and still no luck. I even put a wiring harness off my truck I have the cab off of with no change. Any ideas?
Did you swap crank sensors? That cranking rpm is too low man.
 

78f100

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Did you check the tone ring?
Not yet. Whats the best way to check it?

Did you swap crank sensors? That cranking rpm is too low man.

That was first thing this morning , batterys were down a little. With the charger on it today I was seeing 190 to 200. Im sure that's not the problem. The truck was running started skipping and died. Something happened to make it stall. I will check it again friday, thanks for the input keep it coming!
 

webb06

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Not yet. Whats the best way to check it?



Did you swap crank sensors? That cranking rpm is too low man.



That was first thing this morning , batterys were down a little. With the charger on it today I was seeing 190 to 200. Im sure that's not the problem. The truck was running started skipping and died. Something happened to make it stall. I will check it again friday, thanks for the input keep it coming!


Remove the sensor and get a mirror in there and have someone crank it. I'd think that if the tach is working then the ring would be okay.

Is fuel pressure okay? Is the fuel getting aerated?

I think you're leaning more towards wiring/electrical versus mechanical?
 

78f100

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Not yet. Whats the best way to check it?






Remove the sensor and get a mirror in there and have someone crank it. I'd think that if the tach is working then the ring would be okay.

Is fuel pressure okay? Is the fuel getting aerated?

I think you're leaning more towards wiring/electrical versus mechanical?

I am certain its not fuel, oil pressure. Cmp is new replaced it with a new one and even tried a known good one also. Ckp is also new along with known good pcm, ficm and wiring harness. I am getting crank signal but not sure if its intermittent. Cmp fault when I test it on ids starts as no but after a few revolutions goes to yes
 

78f100

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Had the same issue on a truck awhile back. ended up being the tone ring was moving on camshaft causing CPS codes

How did you conclude it for sure moved? Could you actually tell by looking through the sensor hole or did you pull the pan? I have thought of putting something in the sensor hole to see if it moves but not sure if I can tell that way or not.
In class our instructor told us a story of a tech trying that but he damaged the tone ring during the process. I for sure don't want to cause any more problems.
 

webb06

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How did you conclude it for sure moved? Could you actually tell by looking through the sensor hole or did you pull the pan? I have thought of putting something in the sensor hole to see if it moves but not sure if I can tell that way or not.

In class our instructor told us a story of a tech trying that but he damaged the tone ring during the process. I for sure don't want to cause any more problems.


I'm pretty sure Morgan at midwest dealt with this on a 6.4 you might message him and see how he came to his conclusion.
 
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I've had 6.0's and 6.4s with this be ring issues. Kyle@precision has had two 6.0's within a month or two with the tone ring worked loose.

Idk why they do it. But the only way to fix it is to pull the crankshaft and either replace the crank or we actually reset the tone ring and tug weld it to the crank in several places. They only have a spot weld dowel from the factory and some that I have seen have chicken scratch welds on them at best.

Only way you'll know for sure is to pull the crank sensor and physically see if the tone wheel is loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

78f100

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Well its for sure the tone ring. I had some time to mess with it tonight, pulled the ckp sensor and put my camera in the hole. My brother cranked on it when the engine stopped the ring kept spinning. I recorded it and will post the vid if I get time. Thanks everyone!
 

webb06

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Well its for sure the tone ring. I had some time to mess with it tonight, pulled the ckp sensor and put my camera in the hole. My brother cranked on it when the engine stopped the ring kept spinning. I recorded it and will post the vid if I get time. Thanks everyone!


Sweet find! Anxious to see the video
 
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Morgan hit the nail on the head! We just went thru all the steps to diagnose a no start and came to the conclusion that the only thing it could be was the tone ring, so we yanked the engine and tore down.
 

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