Need help deciding size of injectors.

[lincolnlocker]

That is one of the reasons I didn't want to go any bigger than 400 or 425 horse. It needs to be dependable. Nothing good happens when you are broke down with horses on the road.

once you go over stock, the dependable scale starts to go down..

you won't, well, most wont tow using all 400 hp.. you will only make that power near wide open throttle.. you will more than likely be the mid to low 300hp range of what you will actually use.. if you want to use 400hp then you are looking at a 600hp or more setup..


with proper tuning and your goal of max 400ish hp, you wont need anything but a good fuel pump, good turbo, a good set of 160ish/100ish injectors and a healthy hpop.. that is it.. dont need push rods or valve springs or anything else built for that mattet... except transmission, unless it's a zf6, just need a clucth..

now if you drive like me and even while towing, you need everything you can get done.. I am hard on chit.. lol

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[HBDELUX]

That is something else I was wondering about is the valve springs.

Above 40 psi is not advised with factory springs.

 

[lincolnlocker]

you don't need to go over 30 with that lil of hp..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[BS Hauler]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will just stay with my stock ones for now and see what it runs like with some good tow tunes this summer and make my decision on which way to go. Boy am I glad I have done a lot of research and talked to all the guys on this site. I guy could waste a lot of money and not be where he really wanted to be in the end.

 

[KCTurbos]

I have not installed anything yet. Just accumulating parts so far. What about putting the billet 6x6 wheel in the 38r. Would that be better than the stock wheel for a manual trans truck. If I already didn't have the new 38r I would have went with a KC unit. That is what happens when you collect parts over 3 years before you install them. Something better is always coming out.

I personally don't like the idea of adding a billet wheel to any box 38r. A ball bearing turbo is much more picky than a journal bearing turbo when it comes to balancing.

 

[lincolnlocker]

I personally don't like the idea of adding a billet wheel to any box 38r. A ball bearing turbo is much more picky than a journal bearing turbo when it comes to balancing.

isn't the point of a bb turbo that they are more forgiving?

also, isnt a 38r component balanced?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[KCTurbos]

isn't the point of a bb turbo that they are more forgiving?

also, isnt a 38r component balanced?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Ball bearing turbos do not last long in an unbalanced situation. There is no "forgiving" oil film that the bearings are riding on.

I believe garrett's journal bearing turbos are component or assembly balanced but their dual ball bearing turbos are VSR balanced.

When balancing a hydromatic journal bearing turbo you just need the turbine/shaft/oil slinger/compressor wheel to balance the turbo. The bearings are not "technically" part of the assembly and don't get balanced.

A dual ball bearing really should be balanced as a CHRA with a VSR balancer.

 

[KCTurbos]

isn't the point of a bb turbo that they are more forgiving?

also, isnt a 38r component balanced?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

The ball bearing turbos handle thrust much better because of the dual ball bearing design vs the hydromatic journal bearing. Maybe that is what you meant?

 

[lincolnlocker]

The ball bearing turbos handle thrust much better because of the dual ball bearing design vs the hydromatic journal bearing. Maybe that is what you meant?

yeah, that is more like it

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[TARM]

once you go over stock, the dependable scale starts to go down..

you won't, well, most wont tow using all 400 hp.. you will only make that power near wide open throttle.. you will more than likely be the mid to low 300hp range of what you will actually use.. if you want to use 400hp then you are looking at a 600hp or more setup..


with proper tuning and your goal of max 400ish hp, you wont need anything but a good fuel pump, good turbo, a good set of 160ish/100ish injectors and a healthy hpop.. that is it.. dont need push rods or valve springs or anything else built for that mattet... except transmission, unless it's a zf6, just need a clucth..

now if you drive like me and even while towing, you need everything you can get done.. I am hard on chit.. lol

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Honestly as weak as I have seen my stock valve springs I would be changing them out at 100K for 910 shimmed to stock hieght even if I kept the stock turbo and just a chip. I could compress them my hands. Not all the way but way more than I should. I would guess they were in the 60lb range. IIRC it was David at swamps that told me I would do best to check them as they tended to get weak.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Honestly as weak as I have seen my stock valve springs I would be changing them out at 100K for 910 shimmed to stock hieght even if I kept the stock turbo and just a chip. I could compress them my hands. Not all the way but way more than I should. I would guess they were in the 60lb range. IIRC it was David at swamps that told me I would do best to check them as they tended to get weak.

I completely understand but it's not a "must" unless you drive like me.. lol.. 8 pushrods and 2 rocker arms later... lol

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass