Need help with rear "bounce" problem please

[Arconalloy]

Mine does it at whatever speeds I want it to LOLLOL
I installed a turnover ball that helped a little, now I'm running carli long travel bags. If I run 5 lbs it hops at 30mph so I bumped up to 10 and it hopped at 45 now I'm running 15 and it bounces at 50 mph on the dot anything under or over and I mean just a hair under or over it rides smooth. It did not bounce stock but does now with 4.5 and 37s on 20x9s one day I'll kill it with like 30 lbs in the bags and see what happens haha

 

[Mhatlen]

My 15 dually w/ factory installed 5h wheel plate does this !Mostly on cement freeways at speed . Blacktop freeways smooth as silk !

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Yea I know it's all of these Super Duty trucks, funny thing is some do and some don't. I myself think it has to do with the frame tempering. Now if they had tube frames like Dodge and Chevy it would not be happening. The 2017 F250 is tube and Ford themselves claim it's 24 times more rigid then the current frame on our trucks.

My first 2006 shook like hell after 40 mph + or - and it became more then I could laugh off after putting 38/15.50 tires on it. That's when I went after fixing it.
It does seem to be more common in the CCLB version but they all do it.


Profuzz you are right on the concrete roads setting it off. But it's not really the road as much as it's the trucks inability to shrug it off !!! Once the frame harmonics are right it starts to doing its thing, and there's no stopping it.
I originally had my truck back at Les Schwabs 7 times trying to get my shake fixed. A point came where I accepted the fact it was the truck and not the tires.

I have all kinds of framework going on under my truck now since I squeezed in a pair of air compressors behind transfer case.

 

[Mhatlen]

D

Picture of what's framed up under my truck. Not sure how last pic got upside down ?

They are both goofy..........oh well I tried.......maybe not hard enuf tho.

 

[Mhatlen]

Looks like yours bolts to the radius arm mounts on inside then mounts to the trans crossmember?

You are correct, I made a plate that bolts on the inside side of radius arm hangers out of 1/2" steel. The OEM pivot bolt is long enough to secure it. Since the hangers have two 3/4" holes in them I put a bolt in the empty hole for 2 wheel drive trucks. Then it's 3" channel iron between the plates.

Again 3" channel iron inside transmission crossmember all bolted with 3/4" bolts with the exception of the 1/2" approx studs off of transmission mount. I also put the metric nuts on there as well.
The square stock tying it all together is 1" solid steel and connecting flanges are all 1/2" material.

It's stout, extremely stout !!

 

[WHY NOT]

Now if just the front stuff stopped the bounce going just behind the trans cross member why did you keep going with everything behind it?

 

[Arconalloy]

It looks like a bit much to me to have to go that extravagant on bracing. Making rocket science out of it Imo.

 

[lincolnlocker]

You are correct, I made a plate that bolts on the inside side of radius arm hangers out of 1/2" steel. The OEM pivot bolt is long enough to secure it. Since the hangers have two 3/4" holes in them I put a bolt in the empty hole for 2 wheel drive trucks. Then it's 3" channel iron between the plates.

Again 3" channel iron inside transmission crossmember all bolted with 3/4" bolts with the exception of the 1/2" approx studs off of transmission mount. I also put the metric nuts on there as well.
The square stock tying it all together is 1" solid steel and connecting flanges are all 1/2" material.

It's stout, extremely stout !!

BTW, thanks for joining PSA and sharing your info.. i have a thread on this too i believe and ill post the info in it as well.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[WHY NOT]

BTW, thanks for joining PSA and sharing your info.. i have a thread on this too i believe and ill post the info in it as well.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

:stupid: Defiantly gives me a great idea and place to start with.

 

[lincolnlocker]

:stupid: Defiantly gives me a great idea and place to start with.

agreed 110%

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Layson]

BTW, thanks for joining PSA and sharing your info.. i have a thread on this too i believe and ill post the info in it as well.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

What was the deal with your truck? Wasn't it the axle?

 

[lincolnlocker]

What was the deal with your truck? Wasn't it the axle?

i have the hop but it goes away and im for certain the axle or spindle or whatever it is thats bent is the vibrations at speed. paired with what i believe is a bent rim..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Mhatlen]

Now if just the front stuff stopped the bounce going just behind the trans cross member why did you keep going with everything behind it?

I added the same 4" crossmember on my other truck only. I tagged onto the crossmember with 1" square for one reason only: to mount my air compressors for my train horn and on board air tanks.
Believe it or not none of the bracing back there made any difference in the frame. I can't tell any difference with those there what so ever.

So don't waste your time putting anything back behind transfer case if you are trying to stop the frame bounce.

 

[Mhatlen]

Framework

The framework behind is all ginger bread really. I'm just finishing out the air system in the truck. There is a shot of the two 8-1/2 gallon air tanks under the truck. I have some elaborate framework back there too for installing the air tanks. Still yet to run the brass pipe to each tire for a quick connect. So if I get a flat I can fix tire and pump it back up.

I spent the effort at the compressors because I rubber isolated them in two locations so I hopefully don't feel or hear them running in the cab. You can see the isolators in that upside down picture.
Don't know what the he'll I'm doing to get all those sideways.............

 

[Arconalloy]

The framework behind is all ginger bread really. I'm just finishing out the air system in the truck. There is a shot of the two 8-1/2 gallon air tanks under the truck. I have some elaborate framework back there too for installing the air tanks. Still yet to run the brass pipe to each tire for a quick connect. So if I get a flat I can fix tire and pump it back up.

I spent the effort at the compressors because I rubber isolated them in two locations so I hopefully don't feel or hear them running in the cab. You can see the isolators in that upside down picture.
Don't know what the he'll I'm doing to get all those sideways.............

What air system setup are you running. Sounds similar to what I'm wanting to get to soon

 

[Mhatlen]

What air system setup are you running. Sounds similar to what I'm wanting to get to soon

I bought the tanks through Amazon for $99.00 each. 8-1/2 gallons.
Same with compressors they are a pair of Viar 480C for $349.00

My old truck had a 380C compressor and a 2 gallon air tank. Compressor ran every time I blew the horn. Made me crazy hearing that thing run all the time. I'm piping back to the air tanks and running to each wheel well with a quick connector.
Can't see the tanks at all where I put them unless you crawl under the truck of coarse.
I have a tire plug kit along with a small coil hose for under the seat.

If I get a flat tire I will be prepared for a change.

 

[sledhead_24_7]

I know this is a older thread but I have no doubts that the issue still exists. In fact it's very common with these trucks. I have had two 2006 F250 trucks and my first one had it bad. My current truck does not hop at 45-50 mph. But I reproduced this for my current truck because it drives so much better with it.



Firms up the front end and truck tracks better and tightens up the steering as well as less body lean in turns. There are several threads in other forums that I have been involved with. Mainly on PowerStroke.org in the suspension forum.

Called: My Theory on the SuperDuty Hop and possible cure. Or something like that......lol



None the less this will cure that bounce and it actually starts where the frame goes to single C channel. Which is at the radius arm hangers and the leverage pulls up and down on the frame rails causing a bounce or resonounce in the frame.

Like others have stated if the chassis were to get boxed in it would most like also cure this problem. But that is a ton of work and not very practicle.

So if your handy with metal this is the answer.....guaranteed.

That is some nice looking work. You should build those, or get together with someone on here and build those as a kit. You would sell TONS of those if you truly cured the freakin Hop.

I know I'd buy one,
Which by the way is a CCLB 4x4 with factory goose neck/ fifth wheel hitch. As did my 2011 that hopped, My 2008 also hopped. The 2001 would on concrete HWY at 70 mph, but not much at lower speeds.

 

[CATDiezel]

this is a common ford issue due to frame flex. it is not death wobble becasue it is in the rear. a good set of shocks like Fox or something will help but the only solution i have found so far is to put 500 lbs in the bed.

Nailed it.

The simplest fix I ever found on multiple superduty's

 

[lincolnlocker]

That is some nice looking work. You should build those, or get together with someone on here and build those as a kit. You would sell TONS of those if you truly cured the freakin Hop.

I know I'd buy one,
Which by the way is a CCLB 4x4 with factory goose neck/ fifth wheel hitch. As did my 2011 that hopped, My 2008 also hopped. The 2001 would on concrete HWY at 70 mph, but not much at lower speeds.

id prolly buy one too

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[gnxtc2]

Soooo, I spent 3 hours reading the posts here and on .org.

Is the fix tying the radius mounts together?

I have traction bars on my OBS and they make a world of difference. Need to get a set for the 2016.

On my OBS, the trans crossmember and the crossmember by the front fuel tank have brackets that tie the frame rail flanges together. The fuel tank crossmember is riveted and the trans is nut/bolted. I'll take some pics of the cross members when I get back.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Mhatlen]

Soooo, I spent 3 hours reading the posts here and on .org.

Is the fix tying the radius mounts together?

I have traction bars on my OBS and they make a world of difference. Need to get a set for the 2016.

On my OBS, the trans crossmember and the crossmember by the front fuel tank have brackets that tie the frame rail flanges together. The fuel tank crossmember is riveted and the trans is nut/bolted. I'll take some pics of the cross members when I get back.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Well you did some reading.....as far as your question goes my answer is going to be maybe.

The reason I say maybe is I'm sure you read Nicks thread ' nighthawk' where he also has traction bars and says he made a front radius arm brace. I have no idea what he made for the front of his truck and he won't put up any pictures of it on his thread. Way I see it is he either has something that was half assed on between the radius arm hangers and doesn't want anyone to see it or he has it tied back completely into the frame. I just have no idea of what he did for his front end and I'm not asking him again to post up pictures of what he did.

So you can certainly try tying your radius arm brackets together and see how it works for your truck in conjunction with your traction bars. What I can assure you of is your truck will absolutely drive and handle better with the radius arm hangers tied together.
It will have the same affects as the guys get when they run the solid bar across the engine in cars tying the top shock towers together. Mustangs, Camaro's, etc etc.

I see traction bars a bit like a load binder on a chassis where it pulls things together within reason. So if you can settle down the frame shudder in the radius arm hangers the traction bars will do the rest. I say give it a try, best way to do that is between the hangers with plates and a piece of 3" channel or some square tubing. There are 2 bolt hole locations to secure it as long as it's similar to the 2005 up hangers.
Some have tied it together from behind the hangers but it's not my preferred spot because there is only one bolt per side and it can still 'rack' so to speak.