New Harley Build Advice Needed

[Roccafellas]

Possibly have my stage 1 dynamic Diesel engine for sale in another truck I have.
This engine had;
Dynamic diesel stage 1 kit
Arp 2000 head studs torqued to 275
Ceramic coated delipped .20 over pistons
Mahle clevite bearings
HD lifters
Chromoly pushrods
High rev valve springs
6.0 manifolds and custom uppipes
No limit intake
Cold side pipe
Pusher intake elbow
Stage 1 cam
******* 325 tune.

Was a solid truck and pulled hard..

I have a harley 6.4 all stock that I want to build. I regret the first build I did because only after 35,000km the Hg blew or the heads cracked. And wouldn’t give me heat and pushed coolant. Also the oil cooler clogged. It was my first build. And I want to do things different with this build.

First. What am I missing from my first build I should of had.. and what kit should I get for this engine. Dynamic diesel kit? Or Asheville kit? Or are there any other kits.. with cam pushrods and valve springs preferably.

Second, when should I coolant flush after the build. (I think this is why the cooler clogged) I never flushed it when I first built it, sediment from the block probably clogged the cooler.

Third. Oringed heads? Or not. Is it worth it? I am up in Sudbury Ontario Canada. With NO reputable diesel shops around me. Does ANYONE. Know of a shop down south. Toronto or in Ontario they could hook me up with that would Oring my heads. And check them. And machine the block. I heard Line Boring is key with these engines. But I want reliability. I will be stock fuel and air *for now.
But eventually want some bigger injectors and air. But sticking with a sequential/twin setup. Unless anyone has better ideas.. I’m looking for a reliable 800hp.

Anything else anyone can add I appreciate it. Even small stuff like aftermarket lpfp, fuel bowl ****** stuff I didn’t do before remote oil cooler, I’m talking technical and stuff most people wouldn’t think of doing like I forgot to do with my first build. Thanks!!


Also tranny options.

EDIT* after multiple reviews and multiple readings I will NOT be going with Dynamic Diesel products again.

Thank you all for the warnings.

Is there any other company other than Asheville I can get recommendations from? Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ncollins64]

First stay the hell away from dynamic diesel. I haven’t heard good or bad about Ashville though. Contact kill devil diesel for your engine build. This guy knows his stuff, hence why he still builds monster truck engines like grave diggers. I’d also check with warren diesel for a built 5r trans.

 

[ncollins64]

If I’m not misteken, kdd also uses new blocks and new heads on all the builds. He goes through and decks all surfaces, line bores and fully balances the engine. He also has his own springs, pushrods, billet cams, the new jesel rocker system etc. Since elite isn’t in business anymore might can contact Wesley beech with punch out performance, he has a nice lpfs with a fuel bowl del kit.

 

[Roccafellas]

Okay that’s very good information. I’ll research them, I also heard the same about Choate Engineering.. @white_monster has helped me lots too with decisions and getting ideas. Just want to shout out to him.

I am up in Sudbury Ontario Canada, I was referred by a friend to Scott’s performance diesel in Cambridge Ontario to potentially build it.

Just looking at options. I’d love to trailer it to the States to get one of those extremely reputable shops to build it. Just have to watch Costs, but there’s no penny pinching if I’m building a 6.4 right.. Scott has shown me many builds he has built so far. Pretty impressed. Ive uploaded some of Scott’s builds he sent me.
Says he builds his own piping and does his own machine work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ncollins64]

I totally forgot about choat engineering. He’s just down the road from me too. But, I don’t have any first hand exp with him like I do with kill devil. It might be you could have someone down here build you the engine and have it shipped up to you. I’m sure Shane could even help you if needed with the install etc.

 

[White_monster]

Msg me man. Sent you a pm.

 

[Roccafellas]

Hopefully I can send it to Shane. I’m going to hopefully have him build my Engine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pog]

*** ya. shane is a solid dude!

 

[Roccafellas]

*** ya. shane is a solid dude!

Hell ya he is. Saved my butt a few times!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sixfoh]

Just to give some feedback here about some vendors. DDPM was very helpful in my build. He is sooo knowledgeable! Even knows tidbits like how the international piston are 5 thou shorter than stock ford pistons. I trusted him with his stage 2 rebuild kit, got the rcd cam upgrade and it runs amazing. A lot of the parts in the kit are Mahle which is the OEM for ford. Even take a look at your pistons when you take them out, it will be molded on the underside. Anyways when it comes to KDD I have to say the customer service is amazing. They really go out of their way to make sure youre satisfied. Which brings me to sending them my custom 100# valve springs. Which were "progressively" wound. The tighter end always goes facing down for many reasons. A couple being weight in motion as well as harmonics. Regardless when i got my new KDD heads they were installed 19 of 32 upside down. Aaannnddd 1 of the springs was their 70lb spring. Looked visually different and measured it in my valve spring compressor. That kinda ticked me off they missed one and had to go digging around their shop to find my custom spring. This set my build back a whole extra week. Thank god for my white paint dot(to mark its direction) which made it easier to find in their shop. Now i wanna mention they made good on this. With different options to revise the issues. So im certainly not badmouthing KDD as they have excellent products and am very satisfied with their heads. But note Jared the owner is obviously not building these things. He has many people working for him, like any good expanding shop! So i just want to clear the air and say they are both amazing companies. Some will have good with one and bad with another. But i do not believe either are bad. No one can expect a company to have a 100% sparkly clean reputation. Do your due diligence, trust your gut and all will work out. Have fun with the build and feel free to reach out. Just did a complete 6.4 build. Full engine, bigger injectors, dual fuelers, fass low pressure fuel, bigger manifolds and uppipes etc, bigger turbos etc.

 

[Roccafellas]

Just to give some feedback here about some vendors. DDPM was very helpful in my build. He is sooo knowledgeable! Even knows tidbits like how the international piston are 5 thou shorter than stock ford pistons. I trusted him with his stage 2 rebuild kit, got the rcd cam upgrade and it runs amazing. A lot of the parts in the kit are Mahle which is the OEM for ford. Even take a look at your pistons when you take them out, it will be molded on the underside. Anyways when it comes to KDD I have to say the customer service is amazing. They really go out of their way to make sure youre satisfied. Which brings me to sending them my custom 100# valve springs. Which were "progressively" wound. The tighter end always goes facing down for many reasons. A couple being weight in motion as well as harmonics. Regardless when i got my new KDD heads they were installed 19 of 32 upside down. Aaannnddd 1 of the springs was their 70lb spring. Looked visually different and measured it in my valve spring compressor. That kinda ticked me off they missed one and had to go digging around their shop to find my custom spring. This set my build back a whole extra week. Thank god for my white paint dot(to mark its direction) which made it easier to find in their shop. Now i wanna mention they made good on this. With different options to revise the issues. So im certainly not badmouthing KDD as they have excellent products and am very satisfied with their heads. But note Jared the owner is obviously not building these things. He has many people working for him, like any good expanding shop! So i just want to clear the air and say they are both amazing companies. Some will have good with one and bad with another. But i do not believe either are bad. No one can expect a company to have a 100% sparkly clean reputation. Do your due diligence, trust your gut and all will work out. Have fun with the build and feel free to reach out. Just did a complete 6.4 build. Full engine, bigger injectors, dual fuelers, fass low pressure fuel, bigger manifolds and uppipes etc, bigger turbos etc.

Thanks for the information! Sorry to hear about your mishap. Appreciate it. Hope your build lasts a long time. Longer than my last one lol. what kind of power are you planning to make?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sixfoh]

Youre welcome dude. Here to help when I can! Hoping to be in the 750 range. What are your goals with your build?

 

[Roccafellas]

Youre welcome dude. Here to help when I can! Hoping to be in the 750 range. What are your goals with your build?

Wow it takes that much to hit 750 eh. Funny that a stock 6.4 with intake tune and exhaust can crank out nearly 600 and an extra 150 horse costs an extra 10 grand lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sixfoh]

Oh this setup could likely make many more ponies. I just wanna keep her somewhat tame and reliable. Fuel only too. Cant wait to dyno it. Who knows could make 800+

 

[Roccafellas]

Oh this setup could likely make many more ponies. I just wanna keep her somewhat tame and reliable. Fuel only too. Cant wait to dyno it. Who knows could make 800+

Rock on dude hope so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Roccafellas]

So the engine is finally out, I did it without removing the cab or lifting it, I just simply took the up pipes off, it’s much easier without the egr equipment lol... This engine only has 35,000 on it and look at the oil.
It seems as tho the old shop that put the long block together and the bedplate and oil pans on did NOT know where to put silicone.. there is SOOOO MUCH oil on the bedplate and oil pans and also on the rear cover half way down and the front lover cover it’s literally leaking out everywhere.. I wondered if it has a lot of pressure inside and was pushing oil out but my cab is vented to atmosphere with a huge 3/4” hose down the frame with no restrictions.. the cam sensor is also leaking.. could over filling cause this?

Any tips on helping stopping oil leaks when I tear it down and put it back together?? I really want more than 7000km before an oil drip..like the first time lol.. has anyone gone 100,000 or more with no leaks.. seepage fine..but at 7000 I actually had a lot of drips on the ground.. I couldn’t park in anyone’s driveway that was paved or lock stone.. and my driveway is horrible.. and lock stone... so first question.. oil leaks.. where do you put silicone, and where else could it leak that I should also silicone! And how do I stop sensors from leaking.. new orings only? And silicone?, can I just buy a universal oring kit and use which ones fit? Or is the material special, also relating to oil drain tubes..??? Dipstick? Etc... and what else could make a bedplate leak that bad.. and front and rear cover..

I’ll be pressure washing it tomorrow..what’s a good way to get all the oil off? Soak in super clean or spray nine and pressure wash?

On a side note, I’m pretty scared of how I will maneuver this engine around my driveway and into the other truck.. my lock stone is not even and my cherry picker can’t move half a foot without getting caught. It’s a very heavy engine.. any tips? Or anything anyone could give me?

This is what it used to look like.. like a year and a half 35,000km ago lol!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sootie]

I've had them go 100k between rebuilds with no leaks. Use an OEM gasket kit. The ford grey rtv is the only sealant I will use-its amazing. Only put it where the manual says to, and wait the correct time before exposing it to oil.

I wouldn't run your atmosphere vent all the way to the back. why not use a venturi fitting into the exhaust just past the downpipe. No chance of restriction and no smell.

 

[Roccafellas]

I've had them go 100k between rebuilds with no leaks. Use an OEM gasket kit. The ford grey rtv is the only sealant I will use-its amazing. Only put it where the manual says to, and wait the correct time before exposing it to oil.

I wouldn't run your atmosphere vent all the way to the back. why not use a venturi fitting into the exhaust just past the downpipe. No chance of restriction and no smell.

Awesome, thanks for the reply.. It’s not routed all the way to the back it dumps beside the frame by the oil pan, not close enough to cake it.

And okay, where can I find this manual. To get the proper locations. And are those the ONLY spots? I watch a lot of YouTube videos of Anthony Youngblood at Superduty Service, and he uses anaerobic sealant on the whole bedplate, you can see it squeezed out the sides a little bit.

Just curious. I know he also uses silicone on the dipstick. Maybe he’s excessive but honestly I wouldn’t mind. I spent $12gs on this engine a year and a half ago and it already has blown HG and massive oil leaks. The two main fixes I’m after. So I don’t mind going “over board”

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6.0 Tech]

Awesome, thanks for the reply.. It’s not routed all the way to the back it dumps beside the frame by the oil pan, not close enough to cake it.

And okay, where can I find this manual. To get the proper locations. And are those the ONLY spots? I watch a lot of YouTube videos of Anthony Youngblood at Superduty Service, and he uses anaerobic sealant on the whole bedplate, you can see it squeezed out the sides a little bit.

Just curious. I know he also uses silicone on the dipstick. Maybe he’s excessive but honestly I wouldn’t mind. I spent $12gs on this engine a year and a half ago and it already has blown HG and massive oil leaks. The two main fixes I’m after. So I don’t mind going “over board”

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ford says to use a dab of silicone any time you have 3 surfaces meeting. Ie front cover to bedplate halves, rear cover to bedplate halves, hpfp cover gasket at both corners to the rear cover/block mating. For the bedplate, fords ta16 sealant, you'll need 2 tubes, lay a solid bead down about half the depth of the bedplate, then set the gaskets in and toque it. I also use a tube of that stuff for the oil pump cover, and put some around the front crank seal, as ive had both those give me fits before, and havent had one leak since I started using the sealant in them. Rest of it, ford gaskets or a good mahle gasket kit, that uses the black gaskets instead of the blue ones, so actually seems like it is the factory replacement works.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[Roccafellas]

Ford says to use a dab of silicone any time you have 3 surfaces meeting. Ie front cover to bedplate halves, rear cover to bedplate halves, hpfp cover gasket at both corners to the rear cover/block mating. For the bedplate, fords ta16 sealant, you'll need 2 tubes, lay a solid bead down about half the depth of the bedplate, then set the gaskets in and toque it. I also use a tube of that stuff for the oil pump cover, and put some around the front crank seal, as ive had both those give me fits before, and havent had one leak since I started using the sealant in them. Rest of it, ford gaskets or a good mahle gasket kit, that uses the black gaskets instead of the blue ones, so actually seems like it is the factory replacement works.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

Awesome that’s good knowledge. Thank you! The front crank seal was brand new, so it shocked me that it leaked so fast. But definitely wish I knew about that the first time around!

Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk