New injectors and now sputtering at or above 2500 rpm
- Thread starter wildbill963258
- Start date
wildbill963258
New member
Yep it happens no matter if in neutral or in any gear about the only time it doesn't happen is when it's not fully warmed up
wildbill963258
New member
Well I take my previous statement back because I just did a "cold" wot pull through 4th gear pull and it did it from 1st-3rd and I'm sure if I would've had enough to shift to 5th it would've done it in 4th.
wildbill963258
New member
I had an issue before it was kind of similar but not the exact same it would hesitate but it didn't do it at certain rpms it did it whenever I pulled into a fuel station to get some more fuel and popped the hood found a loose connection on the fender solenoid tightened it up but it still did it on the way home. The next day went out to start the truck it wouldn't start was getting fuel because I could smell it, and at first smoked but then the smoke went away. Popped off a sensor on top of the hpop reservoir because the fill plug had been rounded out by a previous owner and found no oil in the reservoir. After putting oil into the reservoir and still not getting anything had the truck towed to a local shop (via roadside assistance) and they got it running after going through 2 pcms which I had bought putting in a icp sensor new injectors new glow plugs new uvch harness's and a new map sensor (had a dealership before them get it running again and I got it back with a note on the map sensor saying "do not plug in, bad" so I had them fixed that while they were there) and it's been having this issue since I got it back from the shop I called the shop and they said it could be water in the system. Well I have been through 5 or 6 tanks on the rear tank which is the only one I can run at the moment and it has gotten slightly better as in I can now do 70 where as when I got it back from the shop I could only do 65 without it doing it.
Get yourself something to diagnose with. I prefer Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro along with the OBDlink LX. That will cost you under 80$ to have full diagnostic capability. Then check fuel pressure as the PCM can't see fuel pressure. And watch fuel pressure as it is happening.
wildbill963258
New member
Will that give me a live reading as to what's happening other than fuel pressure? Because I have had people say if the computer has been reflashed after 97 it will give live readings without any special cable and I've had people tell me that I need the special cable that hooks up under the hood in order to get live readings.
wildbill963258
New member
The shop had the truck for 3 months trying to get it running and I'm sure that oil pressure is one of the things they checked. And what happened before while it was similar to what its doing now it wasnt rpm related while this issue is. And actually I have discovered today that in cooler weather it will let me do 70 without acting up and in warmer weather it will let me do between 60 and 65 without acting up. And this afternoon I did some wot acceleration pulls and it let me get to 4th gear without acting up at 2500 rpm and while I wasn't able to look at the tach fully until I got to 4th I know i got well above 2500 in 1st-3rd more than likely over 3300 rpm. And sometimes if I cruise above 2500 rpm when it acts up it will pop and the pop sounds like its coming from the lower left of the rear of the motor. Also at times if i try to cruise at 75 it will get bad enough to where it will cut out throttle response and i have to lift to get throttle back and when it does that my wts light will come on. Sorry for all the added details that i have forgotten earlier but I'm trying to give as much detail as possible to try to solve this issue and I'm also finding out new things as I try different things each time i drive it as well
dsberman94
Well-known member
Try a cps. Are all of your new sensors from ford or from a parts store.
Oh thats right early 7.3. I believe they need a flash to enable that communication. A tuner would be able to do that not sure if the dealerships can do that anymore. Without the live data your going to play guessing games. Try a good Ford motorcraft CPS and may consider replacing the IPR.
wildbill963258
New member
Well I do have a spare cps from ford that I ordered through riffraff when I bought the replacement cps from the local parts store when my truck threw a code for the cps
wildbill963258
New member
And cps would make sense because that's how these motors get their timing and I think I am correct in saying that any motor as you get up there in rpms the timing needs to be more advanced to get the full efficiency. So I will throw that new motorcraft cps on there tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.
wildbill963258
New member
Well I swapped out the cheapie cps for a motorcraft cps and have only been up to start the truck and rev it past 2500 rpms (throttle blip not setting there and holding it) in neutral and so far so good but the real test will come when I drive it down the road this afternoon
wildbill963258
New member
And this Friday when I get paid I'm gonna order another cps from riffraff and keep that one in the glove box when it comes in
wildbill963258
New member
Well the first drive with the new cps went well I could cruise at 75 with no issues and I did a few wot pulls in 5th and no hesitation or jolting at all
wildbill963258
New member
Grey
wildbill963258
New member
Yeah that's what happened to me, thanks for the advice I would've never thought that it would be the cps until you mentioned it.
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