new injectors in now IDM codes

neverkickn · Mar 17, 2013

mandkole said:
Stick with looking at the wiring if IDM codes. Then at the IDM. Beyond the electro/mag. solenoid, everything is mechanical in the injector. The solenoid won't care about a B&P issue and vice versa...

Maybe swap the solenoids and see if the injector error positions move.

I disagree. I recently had to replace water damaged injectors, and they would throw circuit faults with perfect wiring/idm. Not saying that is the op's problem, but it is possible. I do agree that you should make sure your wiring is good before you go swaping injectors.

Call up Nate tomorrow, I am sure he can keep you moving in the right direction.

ghohouston · Mar 17, 2013

jaybuller said:
yeah then you dump oil all down in the cyl, get fuel in the oil and basically make a mess of everything! not to mention getting all that air in the oil rails! you make it sound like its as easy as changing the oil. when in reality in up on a step ladder cussin cause my belly is getting cut up from the radiator and whatnot then im bustin my knuckles tring to get that one bolt on the back! and then after its all said and done I need to change my oil because I just dumped so much diesel fuel in there pulling the injector out!

do it a few times, it really becomes that easy. a few tips, you will see two 1/8 silver allen plugs in the oil rail in the head under the valve covers, pull them first, let drain for about 5 minutes before you pull injectors, then be sure to re install them, and know they dont have to be very tight or you will strip them. all that air in the oil rails isnt that bad. install new injectors, pull glow plugs, SET valve covers back on, turn over a few times, with the uvch's unplugged to purge cylinders so you dont hydrolock, re install glow plugs, valve covers, and youre good to go. and as far as the valve cover bolts go, on drivers side, you can get every bolt but 2 with a socket and ratchet. on the bolt under the ccv doghouse, i use a 13mm gearwrench, and on the rear one in front of the firewall, i use a small 1/4 inch drive wratchet with a med. deep 13mm socket, works perfect. pass. side, you can use a ratchet and socket/extensions for all but 2 bolts, for the bottom 2 under the heater box, once again, use your 13mm gearwrench, or if you dont have gearwrenches, obviously you can use a normal wrench, just alot slower

ghohouston · Mar 17, 2013

and if you make sure you have all of your tools on the hood cowl BEFORE you climb up there, you shouldnt keep having to get down. i usually put my pec (man titty) on the alternator or so, and you shouldnt have to squirm around too much... i dont have long arms by any means either

jaybuller · Mar 18, 2013

what you just described is a pain in the ass! what do you do about keeping the fuel out of the cyl and oil when you pull the injector out? I do pull those 2 oil rail plugs but that doesn't stop all the oil from going in there.

ghohouston · Mar 18, 2013

Lol alright, and the 2 rail plugs keep some oil from going to the cylinders, as for what does end up in them, most people let a bit of fuel just get in tthe oil, and like previously stated, install new injectors, pull glow plugs, leave uvch's unplugged, and spin over, re install, and youre good. Or if yo have a way to suck the fluids out, that would work

jaybuller · Mar 18, 2013

alright guys fired the truck up this morning(it was 16 degrees) it fired up ran realy rough and set the codes off (p1273 and 1274) high to low side open on both. soon as it warmed up the codes went away. I also did a buzz test while it was cold and all 8 injectors buzz good. so its deffinatly something in the injector.ill call nate up this morning and talk to him about it.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Mar 18, 2013

jaybuller said:
alright guys fired the truck up this morning(it was 16 degrees) it fired up ran realy rough and set the codes off (p1273 and 1274) high to low side open on both. soon as it warmed up the codes went away. I also did a buzz test while it was cold and all 8 injectors buzz good. so its deffinatly something in the injector.ill call nate up this morning and talk to him about it.

That was the codes I thought it would have thrown to show the injectors it did..
could be just as simple as the Armature screw is not set right. Or the Poppet valve is not working right. Do you have another IDM you could put on there to test it?

jaybuller · Mar 18, 2013

well i dont have a nother IDM. I know mine is good. Hell it was working fine literally 2 hours before i swapped the injectors. and i never touched it or the wiring. I had both batteries unhooked the entire time untill it was ready to start back up. so i know i didnt fry it or anything. the one and only reason i dont blame the IDM is because it only sets the codes the first minute or two on a cold start up then it never sees it again untill the next morning.

jaybuller · Mar 18, 2013

Well good news. Just got off the phone with Nate at Unlimited and he is going to build me 2 new injectors to replace the 2 that are throwing the codes. Soon as i get them here and swapped out ill let yall know what comes of it. Luckly the 2 that are bad dont cause enough of a problem for me so ill be able to keep the truck on the road untill the new injectors come. Just sucks that im gonna need to change my oil again because i know im gonna get diesel fuel all up in the oil! oh well the price one pays to try and imporve the performance of there rigs! I am so glad i decided to go with a shop like unlimited now because talking to him on the phone he didnt try and belittle my knowledge like a lot of shops do. I told him what was wrong and he said he would send me 2 new ones! He didnt sit there and say well did you try a new idm, UVCH, wireing harnes ect ect.... I like that alot.:rockon: