No good deed goes unpunished

[GreasyFingers]

So I've been working on my GF's brothers 02 truck which is a bit of a mess. He has a cattle farm and logging business and is always busy. To say its been rode hard and put away wet is an understatement. I'm in the process of doing injector cups, injectors, up pipes, oil cooler, and addressing various oil leaks. I spent several hours washing off mud, cow crap, and 14 years of oil build up off it so I could see the motor. Once it was cleaned up things were going smoothly... too smoothly and I knew it was a matter of time before I ran into a headache. I went to remove the last gp from the passenger rear cylinder and only part of it came out. As soon as I saw it I was sick. The electrode is still sticking out but won't come out. I filled the bore with PB blaster put some needle nose vise grips on it and tried to pull it out. I tapped down on the vise grips hoping some downward movement would help break it loose then pry it out, but nothing. I've worked on it for hours and it won't even wiggle.

Now it's time to pull the motor. Looking at the bright side, the up pipes, oil cooler and whatnot will be a lot easier, I can address the seeping oil pan, and other bottom end leaks. The question I have is what else should I look for or address while im at it? This project is at the top of its budget so were are only going to address things that need it. I'm already planning on replacing the dipstick o ring, paint the oil pan, check the oil jets and braze them, check the freeze plugs for corrosion, replace if nesisary, tap and plug the exhaust manifold for a thermal couple for the future. What am I missing?

 

[GreasyFingers]

 

[BWCbuilt]

have you tried bumping the engine over to push it out?

 

[ToMang07]

have you tried bumping the engine over to push it out?

^I was thinking the same....see if you can blow it out. Keep working the thing up and down with a hammer/vice grips too.

I got lucky when I just did mine, they all came out super-easy.

Good luck.

 

[GreasyFingers]

I put the interior back in and turn it over by hand. No luck. While it was soaking in pb blaster I continued on to make progress elsewhere and pulled the injector cups and other parts so I can't repeat that. I tried again to break it loose this morning and still nothing. I've got about 5 hours spent working on it, so I'm not going to waste any more. Hell I could have pulled the motor by now. With the motor out ill save an hour or 2 with the up pipes same goes for the oil cooler

 

[1badpsd]

I'd go ahead and do manifold gaskets while its out

 

[GreasyFingers]

I'm going to try not to pull the head. I've got a vise grip slide hammer, hopefully that will snatch it out. In the event that I do have to pull it should I send the head off to be rebuilt? The truck has 280k on it. Also the head bolts at tty correct?

 

[psduser1]

Sounds like you're on the right track with the gp.
As far as anything else, I'd delete the pedestal, and do a frx, or something similar. Get rid of the fuel side orings, if you can. Might change out hpop lines, if they show any signs of seepage behind crimps.
Thermostat housing?
Front main seal and wear sleeve?
Hpop resivoir gasket, and hpop gear bolt cover?

 

[golfer]

might want to run a compression test (on the other cyls) since it sounds like it's been so poorly maintained...

no reason to waste any (more) time on it unless the compression is decent.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

might want to run a compression test (on the other cyls) since it sounds like it's been so poorly maintained...

no reason to waste any (more) time on it unless the compression is decent.

You act like these trucks had a poor air filter design to begin with? haha

Most likely you'll find the valves are pretty worn at that mileage. For sure have the manifolds surfaced and put new bolts in them. As for the oil pan, just order up a new one.

 

[GreasyFingers]

I had to drop the trans because it is a 6 speed and there isn't enough room between the oil pan and cross member to pull the motor forward to clear the clutch of the bell housing. Once I got the motor out I put the valve covers back on and plugged up all the holes to pressure wash it. I put the slide hammer to the GP and after at least a dozen strikes its still not budging. Eventually the tip of the electrode I had to grip onto broke off in the vise grip jaws. I called it quits after it started pouring out and the wind started blowing it in sideways into the carport. I'm going to get a few things cleaned up an organized before I pull the head.

I was planning on doing a compression test. Had my compression tester out but couldn't find my compression tester adapter. I tore my place apart looking for it. I'm sure I'll find it lying in plain sight soon as the motor goes back in. I was going to build another one but Hydraulic Supply and Parker have crappy hours and couldn't make it there due to my work schedule. I decided to carry on due to the fact that even if it has low compression, the funds aren't there for a rebuild or new/used motor. Worst case scenario we are biding time so he can put together the funds for a rebuild. Most of these parts can be transferred to a fresh motor.

 

[GreasyFingers]

I went out looking for my adapter again this morning still couldn't find it. Sense I had the day off I ran down to Hydraulic Supply and got the parts for another one. Figured I'd share a little trick. I add an 1/8" to 1/4" npt adapter, a ball valve, and an air coupling. When doing injector cups I clean the bores out with a wire brush cup on a drill extension. To keep debris from going into the cylinder I'll hook up the air to it and blow the crap out while cleaning. It also works well at blowing oil/fuel out of the cylinder when pulling injectors.

 

[TyCorr]

Good idea bro!!

 

[GreasyFingers]

I know the head bolts are tty but I have read several things saying the Ford service manual states the head bolts can be reused 1 time. I do not have the service manual. anyone know the deal on this? Do they have to be measured for stretch? And no, there is no money for head studs.

 

[Arisley]

Straight edge down the sides. No gap, no stretch.

 

[GreasyFingers]

Thanks. I'll do that, probably mic it down the length too.

 

[cbf9703]

I

Dude... shoes? LOL

 

[GreasyFingers]

I'm in the south. We don't need no shoes!

I was waiting for someone to say something. I had just got out of the shower and went to get the dog I left cabled up in the yard

 

[GreasyFingers]

Does anyone have a source for the spring that goes in the fuel bowl check valve? This one's bent to sh!t. Did a google search, only found the pressure regulator spring.

 

[Arisley]

It's not needed, Just gut the standpipe. It is there to stop fuel flow without a filter in there.