No Hot Start / Random Stalling

johnp115 · Apr 15, 2014

dieselpower said:
Thanks for the help! How many hours does it take to get to the HPOP?

You can do it in a night.

For me it wasn't the most pleasant job, but it's pretty straight forward.

sideactiondiesel · Apr 15, 2014

needs -stand pipes, Dummy plugs and stc fitting. And while your in there replace ipr screen but if debris is in the screen then the oil cooler will need to be pulled and checked to see if what cooler it does have "Probably the old one" I will bet money it has a screen coming apart along with none of these parts installed in the truck ICP max is low by about 500 psi.

also ....... check to see what lift pump pressure is in bowl. needs to be a min of 55 psi .

This is all the free help i will give .:thumbsup:

dieselpower · Apr 19, 2014

Just by looking under the truck, I can see a engine oil leak coming down onto the transmission crossmember. If the no start is due to low ICP, why was there no DTC's? I know there are codes related to oil pressure, so why none?

Also, is there a write up anywhere on how to get to the HPOP to check the stc fitting, etc?

dieselpower · Apr 19, 2014

dieselpower said:
Just by looking under the truck, I can see a engine oil leak coming down onto the transmission crossmember. If the no start is due to low ICP, why was there no DTC's? I know there are codes related to oil pressure, so why none?

Also, is there a write up anywhere on how to get to the HPOP to check the stc fitting, etc?

And would a stc / hpop problem be externally leaking?

G Racing · Apr 20, 2014

dieselpower said:
And would a stc / hpop problem be externally leaking?

No. Everything is internal.

johnp115 · Apr 20, 2014

dieselpower said:
Just by looking under the truck, I can see a engine oil leak coming down onto the transmission crossmember. If the no start is due to low ICP, why was there no DTC's? I know there are codes related to oil pressure, so why none?

Also, is there a write up anywhere on how to get to the HPOP to check the stc fitting, etc?

There was no codes when I had this problem.
And oil on the motor/trans.... To me, that's just a diesel thing lol

dieselpower · Apr 21, 2014

johnp115 said:
There was no codes when I had this problem.
And oil on the motor/trans.... To me, that's just a diesel thing lol[/QUOTE

Went and checked again, and it's trans fluid, so nothing to do with engine.

Got the intake and degas bottle off...take off the ficm and turbo next, and the HPOP should be accessible then, right?

johnp115 · Apr 21, 2014

Yeah the hpop cover has to come off, just take your time with it DO NOT. Drop any of the bolts lol. The two under the EGR cooler are a pain and most likely will have to stay on the cover when you go to pull it out, just be carefull. They're 8mm bolts iirc

When you pull your turbo out moving the alternator out of the way always made it easier for me.

dieselpower · Apr 23, 2014

k guys I've been working on my truck a little, and got the ficm and turbo / turbo pedestal off. Does the egr have to come off now too, or can the bolts on the HPOP cover be loosened without?

Kind of surprised...never done much mechanic work in my life, and I'm probably 2 hours in or so.

Thanks again for the help! PSA rocks!

dieselpower · Apr 23, 2014

dieselpower said:
k guys I've been working on my truck a little, and got the ficm and turbo / turbo pedestal off. Does the egr have to come off now too, or can the bolts on the HPOP cover be loosened without?

Kind of surprised...never done much mechanic work in my life, and I'm probably 2 hours in or so.

Thanks again for the help! PSA rocks!

Also, do I have to get the STC "updated kit", or can I get just the updated fitting? I realize the kit would be the best, but will just the fitting fix the current problem?

johnp115 · Apr 23, 2014

dieselpower said:
k guys I've been working on my truck a little, and got the ficm and turbo / turbo pedestal off. Does the egr have to come off now too, or can the bolts on the HPOP cover be loosened without?

Kind of surprised...never done much mechanic work in my life, and I'm probably 2 hours in or so.

Thanks again for the help! PSA rocks!

You can just get those bolts under the EGR it's a little of a struggle. and the bolts on the heat shield are a little of a pain.

johnp115 · Apr 23, 2014

dieselpower said:
Also, do I have to get the STC "updated kit", or can I get just the updated fitting? I realize the kit would be the best, but will just the fitting fix the current problem?

The kit is the fitting and new o rings so it's pretty much what you're saying. The stc fitting will most likely fix it, the dummy plugs and stand pipes usually aren't at fault, so you can try the stc fitting first. Cause the stand pipes and dummy plugs are under the valve covers

dieselpower · Apr 23, 2014

johnp115 said:
The kit is the fitting and new o rings so it's pretty much what you're saying. The stc fitting will most likely fix it, the dummy plugs and stand pipes usually aren't at fault, so you can try the stc fitting first. Cause the stand pipes and dummy plugs are under the valve covers

I could get a 8mm wrench on those bolts under the EGR, but I can't get enough torque on them in that small of a space. And I don't want to round them off...guess I'll keep trying.

I'm just going to do the STC fitting for now and hope that fixes it...I'm planning on selling the truck after it is fixed. Not that I don't care about the future of the truck, but no sense in me putting extra money in it for someone else.

Any tips on getting those bolts out under the EGR? Maybe I have the wrong concept using the 8mm wrench, although I'm not sure anything else will fit in there.

johnp115 · Apr 23, 2014

dieselpower said:
I could get a 8mm wrench on those bolts under the EGR, but I can't get enough torque on them in that small of a space. And I don't want to round them off...guess I'll keep trying.

I'm just going to do the STC fitting for now and hope that fixes it...I'm planning on selling the truck after it is fixed. Not that I don't care about the future of the truck, but no sense in me putting extra money in it for someone else.

Any tips on getting those bolts out under the EGR? Maybe I have the wrong concept using the 8mm wrench, although I'm not sure anything else will fit in there.

Yeah, they're a PAIN. I used a 8mm ratchet wrench and it was just the right length and curved just perfectly to where I could wiggle it and get the bolts loose. Someone may chime in something more hopeful lol

dieselpower · Jun 27, 2014

The no start when cold has been fixed, it was the IPR. However, the hard hot start still persists. The mechanic says he pressure tested the HPOP system, and there were no leaks, etc. Is this a fuel issue? Injectors?

All it takes is a small whiff of ether to start (I know I shouldn't use it). And it still stalls occasionally as well. I have noticed that when it does stall, it is an abrupt engine stop, and not a rough run, lugging, etc. Almost like it's a kill switch...maybe FICM?

Guess I'll take it back to the mechanic again :shrug::shrug::shrug:

GFDtech · Jun 27, 2014

The stalling could very easily be a cam sensor, being that it's an abrupt stop. Abrupt stops like that usually mean electrical issue (sensor, wiring, etc..) but a sticking IPR can cause a abrupt stop coming off of acceleration (letting off gas pedal) and will also cause a hot start problem. But this could be to different issues all together. FICM won't cause an abrupt stop. Hard start yes !

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