Oil cooler replaced, high EOT, ECT 190

[dieselappnerd]

I had the oil cooler, egr cooler, arp head studs and more done last July. But now my ECT is never above 190, while my EOT is easily running 220+ with a bit of a load on. Could I have plugged up a new cooler that fast? How can I check that coolant is actually being pumped around the engine?


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[dieselappnerd]

Sorry, I forgot to give you details. I’ve got a late 2004 F-450, 6.0. I’ve used it in Utah and Idaho, and these are the temperatures I’m seeing during winter.


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[Zeb]

Yes, it is very possible to have plugged the oil cooler in that amount of time, especially if the cooling system wasn’t thoroughly cleaned/flushed.
I’ve seen an oil cooler plug in less than 4,000 miles on a dirty system.
When I did the heads etc on my Excursion I ended up with a lot of casting sand in the cooling system. 20-25* deltas running empty, and nearly 40* towing.
I back flushed the heater core, drained the block, and back flushed the oil cooler. That same oil cooler now runs a 2-5* delta running empty.
You’re going to have to flush the system, and/or run a filter until you aren’t catching trash anymore before replacing the oil cooler, or the cycle will repeat itself.
I would back recommend back flushing the cooler, getting the system clean, and see what you can get the delta down to before changing the cooler.

 

[dieselappnerd]

That spread of temps sounds exactly like what I’ve been seeing, huge towing temp deltas. I dropped the coolant last night and I’m planning to reverse flush. I was gonna skip the heater core and just do the oil cooler, but your comment about the casting sand makes sense, so I’ll do that too. I’ll also pick up a new filter can for my coolant filter. I figured before I jumped on all that work I better check to see if something else might cause the deltas like a pump not circulating the coolant...thanks. I guess I’ve got my work cut out and just need to finish it off.


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[bismic]

Was the oil cooler that was installed an aftermarket cooler?

Some aftermarket coolers have been shown to not cool as well straight out of the box.

Dorman and Sinister coolers seem to be in that category.

 

[dieselappnerd]

It was an updated Ford cooler..at least that’s what the shop told me. I looked at it, and it appeared newer, but I didn’t look closely.


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[dieselappnerd]

To be clear; it was a new Ford cooler with an updated design.


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[bismic]

The updated design is probably 10 years old, but it is a good update. Navistar (and hence Ford) added an extra set of cooling rows.

The only thing I know of to do is to verify that your oil temp sensor is reading the same as the coolant sensor after the truck has fully cooled down (needs to sit at least 12 hours for fluids to cool down). Once you have convinced yourself that the sensors are close to being accurate, then start looking into the backflush as mentioned above.

 

[dieselappnerd]

Yep; sensors read within 1-2 degrees every morning (40 ECT, 40.5 EOT).


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[DEEZUZ]

I've had coolers clog back up after a 30 min test drive. Then I just keep taking off back cover and flush....


That's rare occasions though

 

[TooManyToys]

No problem within the plates with ELC, but debris in the intake ports.

 

[dieselappnerd]

After 4 flushes (chemical, distilled chem, distilled), back flushing the oil cooler, heater core, and radiator, and another distilled flush I’m seeing temps +/- 8 (often +/- 3) after 30 mins @ 1200 rpms + another 25 mins at 2100 rpms. Doing another distilled flush and probably gonna call it good. Boy it’s so much easier the second time around! After seeing those pics of the intake ports clogging I guess I’ll plan to get used to flushing it..

I’ll be pulling the trailer this weekend (16k 5th wheel) to move it to another location a few hours away. Any advice on what to watch for and or what to do if towing temps start to go crazy? Max EOT to allow or max delta to allow before I pull off the freeway?


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[Zeb]

After 4 flushes (chemical, distilled chem, distilled), back flushing the oil cooler, heater core, and radiator, and another distilled flush I’m seeing temps +/- 8 (often +/- 3) after 30 mins @ 1200 rpms + another 25 mins at 2100 rpms. Doing another distilled flush and probably gonna call it good. Boy it’s so much easier the second time around! After seeing those pics of the intake ports clogging I guess I’ll plan to get used to flushing it..

I’ll be pulling the trailer this weekend (16k 5th wheel) to move it to another location a few hours away. Any advice on what to watch for and or what to do if towing temps start to go crazy? Max EOT to allow or max delta to allow before I pull off the freeway?


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I don’t have a number that I consider a maximum, but 230* is probably about as high as I’d want to see.
I ran 228*-233* for about 1,500 miles (towing, grossing 17,500 lbs) and haven’t seen any ill effects since flushing the cooler.
The temp won’t spike on you, but will climb and give you some time to pull off the road and cool down if need be.
If you can put on off these together to shock the oil cooler with air when you back flush it it will REALLY help push contaminants out.

 

[04MT]

My 04 would start to de-fuel/limp mode when the oil temp reached 278 degrees. I'm not really clear on why people focus on the 10-12 degree deltas on a 6.0, for example, yesterday I was driving a 2019 Volvo 780 truck at just shy of 80,000 lbs. My coolant temp was 189 degrees and the oil temp was 228 degrees. My old peterbilt with a N-14 will run 200 degrees coolant temp and I've never seen the oil go any higher the 150 degrees.

 

[TooManyToys]

Because the coolant-oil differential is used as an indicator of restricted flow through the oil cooler and then to the EGR cooler, which is prone to crack on the '04.5 and up if it gets too hot. The differential is the only yardstick to know how restrictive the flow could be. The '03 EGR cooler could handle a higher temperature and the target was 25F differential. Every vehicle motor design is different, so it would not be surprising to have some motors with a normal coolant-oil differential of 50F. That's not going to work on a 6.0 Powerstroke.

 

[dieselappnerd]

If you can put on off these together to shock the oil cooler with air when you back flush it it will REALLY help push contaminants out.

Is that a standard garden hose with an air hose? What air compressor do you use with it and how high a pressure to you pump into the water?


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[Zeb]

Is that a standard garden hose with an air hose? What air compressor do you use with it and how high a pressure to you pump into the water?


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That is a standard garden hose on a 3 way valve. The line marked with red is common (always open). Get the water flowing, then switch the valve. Water shuts off and 150 psi from my shop air blasts the water in the 8’ of hose leading to to the cooler and what’s in the cooler out. Switch it back and forth as many times as necessary.

 

[04MT]

Because the coolant-oil differential is used as an indicator of restricted flow through the oil cooler and then to the EGR cooler, which is prone to crack on the '04.5 and up if it gets too hot. The differential is the only yardstick to know how restrictive the flow could be. The '03 EGR cooler could handle a higher temperature and the target was 25F differential. Every vehicle motor design is different, so it would not be surprising to have some motors with a normal coolant-oil differential of 50F. That's not going to work on a 6.0 Powerstroke.

Gottcha, thanks for the info.