Oil Cooler Time

Sodbuster Jr. · Jan 24, 2013

Okay guys im finally back on the site now that work has slowed way down. i'm going to try to get back on here and stay up to date. Well my truck sat most of the summer. I ran it three times for about 50 miles throughout the past 6 months. Im finally driving it full time again. Up here in Michigan we got these sub-zero temps and the oil cooler is leaking. It just appears to be the orings cause the fluids arent mixing...yet. Anyways, how much of a chore is it to pull it, do orings, and reinstall? And should I consider replacing the hole cooler as well? Its on the Ford in my signature.

DEEZUZ · Jan 24, 2013

Its 5 10MM bolts. drain coolant at radiator, than use 1/4 drive on a 3/8 socket wrench to pull the driver side block drain for coolant. remove oil filter and block heater cord. loosen all bolts, it comes out the rear. soak both ends with some PB or WD, mark where both ends are on the cooler, knock off both ends with rubber mallet. wire wheel the cooler ends where the o-rings have made there mark. new o-rings, lube them up with dielectric grease, find a nice press, squeeze together, put back up, torque bolts to 18 ft lbs. you will get coolant in the oil so drain oil

old man dave · Jan 24, 2013

I think there are a couple of gaskets where the oil cooler makes up to the block, one on each end.

Marty · Jan 24, 2013

Yes and make sure you clean the mating surfaces on the block, only use ford OEM gaskets not international and do not overtorque the front bolts or you can crack the front cover.

Sodbuster Jr. · Jan 25, 2013

I gave it a quick look tonight and the front bolts look like a PITA. Is there an easy way to get at them or am i just over thinking it?

Sent from the top of a silo while battling pigeons

Marty · Jan 25, 2013

Take front bracket off and move it out of the way.

POWER-STRUCK · Jan 25, 2013

a ratchet strap can be used in place of a press and also you can pull the block heater to drain the coolant but watch out it will shoot out everywhere if you do not let it dribble past the threads for a while.

old man dave · Jan 27, 2013

POWER-STRUCK said:
a ratchet strap can be used in place of a press and also you can pull the block heater to drain the coolant but watch out it will shoot out everywhere if you do not let it dribble past the threads for a while.

And just how do you know that?:shocked:

POWER-STRUCK · Jan 27, 2013

old man dave said:
And just how do you know that?:shocked:

a little birdie told me lol

Nobody Special · Jan 27, 2013

On a 95-97, it is a possibility that you will have to remove the two motor mount to frame nuts and raise the left side of the engine slightly to remove the cooler assembly.

POWER-STRUCK · Jan 27, 2013

turn it back and forth at an angle when removing it and it will come out

jbkingranch · Jan 27, 2013

Nobody Special said:
On a 95-97, it is a possibility that you will have to remove the two motor mount to frame nuts and raise the left side of the engine slightly to remove the cooler assembly.

That's what I did on my 96. Gives you another 1" or so. Then the gasket on my front cover fell on the top side and I didn't see it. Torqued the bolts from the bottom side and broke the front cover. Then you have to pull the engine to fix it. Not fun!

greenwhite1 · Aug 23, 2013

I replaced my oil cooler several weeks ago and I'm still scratching my head. It was very tight getting the cooler out but once it was out there wasn't a gasket on the front mount (between the engine and cooler). I looked all over, on the ground, axle, frame, stuck to the engine but I couldn't find it anywhere. I find this hard to believe because I would expect it to be leaking horribly and it wasn't. Also I installed an oil temp gauge in the filter housing. What temperature should I be seeing there?

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Marty · Aug 25, 2013

200 or so

The answer is much more involved but thats a good reference point.

greenwhite1 · Aug 26, 2013

I purchased an oil and water temp gauge several months ago knowing I would do my oil cooler. In the mean time I heard about the torque app and purchased that too so I have two ways of monitoring my oil temps. Am I correct that the factory oil temp sensor is in the hpop? My factory sensor and the one I installed in the filter housing do not read the same temp. The one in the filter housing reads hotter and I've seen it get up too 211° on the expressway going 75 mph. I also installed a water sensor in my water pump that was new last fall. I read that the 6.0 shouldn't been more than 10° difference between the oil and water temps, is this the case with the 7.3 too? I saw mine get 18° of separation.

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