Oil Oil Oil

ithumpwheniwalk · Jul 8, 2012

alwil said:
At $50 per gal up here amsoil synthetic costs way to much.

heh.. over $80 a gallon up here... Too expensive to run in the truck!

edit: can't seem to find a gallon container of the stuff, but it's running $24 a quart :-(

MossBack · Jul 8, 2012

ithumpwheniwalk said:
heh.. over $80 a gallon up here... Too expensive to run in the truck!

edit: can't seem to find a gallon container of the stuff, but it's running $24 a quart :-(

U need to find another dealer that is ridiculous the last Canada order I did it was less then that.

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

TARM · Jul 8, 2012

Does that have to do with the exchange rate as that is stupid expensive for something that does not really offer anything significant.

TARM · Jul 8, 2012

MadDiesel73 said:
So what oil out there has the best anti-Sheering properties ? From my research over the past few days leads me to a 15/40 syn or semi syn such as schaefers 7000 over the 5-40 9000

Maddiesel,

That is correct to a point. But this has mostly to do with the spread of the cold and hot vis.

Both oils have + s they are a bit different. I do not think you can go wrong with either. The base oil is superior in the 9000. The additive packages of either is IMO better than any other oil out there other than possibly some boutique oils. The fact is you can not look at what other engine find as good even diesels as these HPOP injection systems create a very unique situation on the effects dealing with oil.

POA handles fuel and coolant and moisture dilution best. The group III handle other things better. I tend to find 5w40over 15w40 to offer better throttle response especially when the oil is not up to normal operating temp. It should also offer better start up protection as well. That is where a significant amount wear comes from as I understand it.

The fact is UOA is one of the best ways to know what oil is working best for your setup and driving habits. It can be different. I do not think you can go wrong with either of their oils but one may offer advantages over another depending on setup and use. Its possible that MAY benefit you.

There is one thing I have noticed in the trend with most top quality oils and our HUEI system. The oils seem to break down to a SAE 30 and then they slow way down. Some will get there sooner than others but they all seem to hit the wall once they get to 30W. Now I have not had the chance to try this. I have wondered if the tolerances of our engines tend to work well in the 30w range. This is in the shearing effect only. To test only this and not a oil for best over all use I have wanted to try a straight 30SAE oil. This way there are very few if any viscosity modifiers as its not a multi-vis oil. I want to see how much it actually shears. .

It seems to me that the ones running good quality 10w30 have always reported very good UOA and shearing was less as well IIRC. 10w30 use the be the oil of choice with the earlier 7.3s and even back to the 6.9 days. They have also reported what I have seen going from 15w40 to 5w40 with throttle response. If these had been full syn used I wonder if it would have been that much better. I am trying to find what ever I can as far as UOA in power strokes over on BITOG with 10w30. If for anything just to fill my curiousity.

Honestly IMO get a top quality oil in the 5-15w/30-40 range will work well. I find Schaeffers offers that as good or better than other oils and at a good price point to boot.

08straightpiped · Jul 12, 2012

I have been running 5W40 full Synthetic Delo 400 Chevron oil in my 6.4 does anybody have any input on that oil.

96stacked&smoken · Jul 12, 2012

I know this is a lil off subject but can you run there oil additive in a quad? I want to run it in my kfx 400 but not sure if its safe for a wet clutch.

MossBack · Jul 12, 2012

96stacked&smoken said:
I know this is a lil off subject but can you run there oil additive in a quad? I want to run it in my kfx 400 but not sure if its safe for a wet clutch.

No way you need oil formulated for wet clutches and because it's an additive don't mean you add it to everything.

Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

96stacked&smoken · Jul 12, 2012

Good to know thanks.

lincolnlocker · Jul 12, 2012

08straightpiped said:
I have been running 5W40 full Synthetic Delo 400 Chevron oil in my 6.4 does anybody have any input on that oil.

never knew they even made a syn delo 400....

06_Whitebull · Jul 13, 2012

I wish I had found this 2 weeks ago. I just put T6 in my truck based on what I had read other places and how tons of guys are running it with success. I don't have any idle issues, no stiction, and runs quieter in the cab than the dyno that was in it before (I used a dB reader). I haven't heard of Schaeffers until this thread. Maybe I got lucky, 150,xxx by the way, 146,xxx of it on dyno.

TARM · Jul 13, 2012

its as the T6 gets sheared and older its starts to have the most issues. Give it 1500 miles and see if its still idling so well. But it does vary from engine to engine and how you drive it effects things as well.

06_Whitebull · Jul 27, 2012

Anyone have an opinion on running some Moly EP on top of the Rev-X that I added with my oil change?

alwil · Jul 27, 2012

TARM said:
its as the T6 gets sheared and older its starts to have the most issues. Give it 1500 miles and see if its still idling so well. But it does vary from engine to engine and how you drive it effects things as well.

I just made the switch from t-6 to mobil-1.....absolutely no change in anything.
It starts the same, idles the same, in fact the only difference is the t-6 was $37 a jug and the mobil-1 was $56.

Granted I have a 6.0 not a 7.3......maybe thats the difference.

revolvingsteel · Jul 28, 2012

Found a local dealer off the Schaeffers website that delivers! Only cost $20.63 a gallon for Schaeffers 9000 5W-40! Thats cheaper than the T6 at walmart. Changed the oil this morning, looking forward to seeing how it performs.

bruce · Jul 30, 2012

If anyone in west tn wants schaeffers oil jp machine repair in dyersburg is a dealer. Has it sittin on the shelf.

JoeDaddy · Jul 30, 2012

Just posting this here to add to Ryans post.

Last Sunday my SD died slowly as i was heading to Tulsa. It was like a clock winding down over 20 miles or so. I checked IPR ICP FP chip. All the first things you check. When I checked the oil it was hard to read. Like it was wiped away before I could see it.

Saturday driving my other 7.3 a 300k obs thats as reliable as the sunrise it started acting the exact same way. Luckily I made it home. This got me thinking about this thread. So I checked my obs oil and like the SD it was there but barely readable. The oil had degenerated to the consistency of water and would barely cling to the dipstick. 1 look in the SD fb and it was obvious. The oil had thinned so bad that it was escaping past the seals and had clogged the filter in a matter of miles. New filter fresh oil and both trucks are running perfect again.

Thanks for the thread ******.

Chvyrkr · Aug 4, 2012

JoeDaddy said:
Just posting this here to add to Ryans post.

Last Sunday my SD died slowly as i was heading to Tulsa. It was like a clock winding down over 20 miles or so. I checked IPR ICP FP chip. All the first things you check. When I checked the oil it was hard to read. Like it was wiped away before I could see it.

Saturday driving my other 7.3 a 300k obs thats as reliable as the sunrise it started acting the exact same way. Luckily I made it home. This got me thinking about this thread. So I checked my obs oil and like the SD it was there but barely readable. The oil had degenerated to the consistency of water and would barely cling to the dipstick. 1 look in the SD fb and it was obvious. The oil had thinned so bad that it was escaping past the seals and had clogged the filter in a matter of miles. New filter fresh oil and both trucks are running perfect again.

Thanks for the thread ******.

What's your normal change interval Joe?