Possible cracked block?

Lt.Dan · Feb 19, 2017

Well, i'm almost done with the front cover replacement, and I have 100% confirmed where the leak is coming from.

First off, I got the motor out, but sacrificed the motor/tranny spacer.. I forgot to unbolt the starter, and it got hung up on the motor mount, which in turn broke the spacer. A new one is on order, picked it up for $50 on ebay.

So then I threw it on the engine stand (got the 2000lbs model from Harbor Freight, which is surprisingly stout!!), and started tearing into the front. Got the oil pan off, all the front accessories, water pump, harmonic balancer, LPOP, HPOP, HPOP reservoir, and then finally the front cover. And this is what i find...

So If you have read through this thread at all of my entire endeavor, you would remember that the shop that was doing the work dropped my motor. Not really dropped, kind of just fell over. It was sitting on the ground and fell on the driver side, breaking the oil cooler mount. Which he replaced. Well he didn't think to check the front cover, which was cracked right where the cooler bolts to it. It cracked through the orifice to the bolt hole, and was weeping out of it, and down the front of the cover.

So i took a picture of it, and sent it to the guy along with stating what happened and for him to call me. Now its sunday so I dont really expect him to, but he hasn't called me yet. I'd like for him to reimburse me for all the parts (Over $600 worth), and maybe the labor it took me to pull the motor, do all the work, and reinstall it! So far i'm into it probably 12 hours worth of labor, and im not done. Is it crazy to ask him to cover labor even though im doing it myself? I guess I would still be happy if he covered the parts?

So I started reassembling the motor myself, as I dont want to have to wait another few months for him to do it.

Almost done, just needed the gasket for the oil pickup tube. I was unaware I needed one, so Im waiting on that to reinstall the oil pan. Also waiting on my T500 HPOP to come back in the mail. Then the truck will be all done and hopefully finished! Wish me luck!

How it sits now:

dsberman94 · Feb 19, 2017

I'd be happy just to get money for parts, and just the parts. Not any specialty tools you had to buy. Not really sure you can get reimbursement for labor being you're doing it yourself.

TyCorr · Feb 19, 2017

Id be searching for a good forged rod motor to drop in and sell that ***kin turd. Next thread: my motor blew up and the builder wont repair it because he said i installed the oil pump incorrectly.

Lt.Dan · Feb 20, 2017

dsberman94 said:
I'd be happy just to get money for parts, and just the parts. Not any specialty tools you had to buy. Not really sure you can get reimbursement for labor being you're doing it yourself.

I think your right, we'll see how it goes.

TyCorr said:
Id be searching for a good forged rod motor to drop in and sell that ***kin turd. Next thread: my motor blew up and the builder wont repair it because he said i installed the oil pump incorrectly.

Keep digging myself deeper dont I :clapping:

bluedge8 · Feb 20, 2017

I would start out asking for parts and labor, if he whines about that mention downtime , again

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

TyCorr · Feb 21, 2017

Im not knockin you buddy. Im just getting irritated that he done you like that. Royal shady screwjob.

Lt.Dan · Feb 23, 2017

Yeah well after i sent him those pictures on Sunday, he finally gets back to me today, with a text that says, "Sorry i just got your text". And another saying "New cover here tomorrow". So I told him no, I already have one, and the job is almost done and over with. Long story short, its my fault, and he wont pay me anything, but I can have the cover and return it for some money. But he doesn't want to waste his time or pay a restocking fee. Also trying to tell me that he did me a favor for this entire rebuild, and I should be thankful! It got heated and I ended up telling him to keep it, If he treats his friends this way, then I'll fix it and take care of it myself.

Idk how a business like this stays open? A coworker said I should dispute my credit card transaction with him, which was $1700.

TyCorr · Feb 25, 2017

You could. If you dont mind sharing your cost going this route i think you'll see you could have got a good rebuild from swamps.

I wouldn't ever buy a rebuild from someone unless ive seen that motor type (7.3, 6.l, lbz, lly, etc) thst they built run.

Hell there are "builders" of single platforms that cant even get it right over half the time.

Lt.Dan · Feb 25, 2017

Ive got a running spreadsheet on what ive spent on this truck since the motor went out. Granted its got a lot of stuff in it that I didnt have to spend, or didnt even pertain to the motor (ie a new radiator, door hinge pins and bushings, a T500 HPOP, battery cables, radiator hoses, etc.)

Right now im at $7371. Which i could've bought a remand Ford Long block with a 3 year warranty for less. Depressing lol

EDIT: If i leave out the stuff that I didnt "Have" to buy. Im just over $6000.

TyCorr · Feb 26, 2017

You could get a perf rebuild from swamps for 5 something

Lt.Dan · Feb 26, 2017

Yup, 7.3 Performance Built Short Block is $5200 from swamps.

Also got the Motor installed today, just got 2 Bell housing bolts installed and the motor mounts bolted up. Fuel system is put together, and all the front accessories are put together. Installed the core support and a couple other small things. Hoping to have it finished tomorrow or Tuesday. Then im just waiting for the T500 pump to come in the mail so I can drive it.

Lt.Dan · Mar 5, 2017

Motor is completely installed and ready to go. Just waiting on my T500 pump from Terminator. almost 3 weeks and counting...

TyCorr · Mar 5, 2017

Whats 3 weeks on this project lol. A blink. A vertice of time.

Lt.Dan · Mar 7, 2017

Hahaha, good point!

So i actually got the pump today, i didnt get a tracking number until today, but it was shipped out a few days ago. So I received and installed it today. The install went great, and I got everything back together perfectly. Installed the IPR just as it came apart, all the O-rings looked to still be in good shape. Torqued the HPOP gear bolt to 95 ft/lbs. Motorcraft RTV on the inspection plate, hooked up all the fittings good, etc.

I didnt have a funnel to fill the hpop reservoir, and didnt want to spill it everywhere trying to pour it in. So I opted to crank instead of fill. I used the starter relay on the fender and jumped the 2 posts to crank the motor. Did 2 cranking intervals, of about 30 seconds long each. Then jumped in the truck, primed the fuel system, and cranked for about 10 seconds before it fired up. It ran HORRIBLE at first. Sounded like it was mis-firing, running on 6 cylinders, and loping super bad. Put it in high idle for about a minute or so, and then decided to jump in and just cruise around the block. Some major air in the system, but it got better the more i drove it. Drove it about a mile, varying in load/throttle position/ and speed. It was super fun! Felt like a totally different truck! I only had it in stock mode on the tuner, so I didnt get to actually romp on it, but it felt like it ran much stronger. Then I cruised back and parked it, it was still choppy but nothing near as bad as when it first started, so I figured I would run it harder on the way home. I shut it down so i could close up shop and drive home. Spent about 10 minutes closing up, went back out, and now its a no start!

I probably did 30 cycles of 20-30 second cranking intervals over a 45 minute period, Its not a battery issue, or a slow cranking issue, I have it jumped with cables to my other truck, and a big battery charger on it at the same time, It cranks like hell.
I triple checked every sensor, its all hooked up correctly. I tried pulling the ICP sensor harness in hopes of starting, no difference.
Checked the HPOP reservoir several times throughout, and every time I checked, oil was at the TOP of the reservoir, couldn't add a drop if i wanted to. And with my scangauge II i was able to check ICP pressure and IPR duty cycle. ICP gets up to 2700psi, and IPR hovers around 34%.
CPS is good, I get a solid reading on the Tachometer, and its a new CPS from ford (came with the rebuild kit, maybe 500 miles old).
I also have fuel pressure with the key on, a solid 65psi (although it does sound quieter than it usually does). While cranking though, I cant tell, I cant be in 2 places at once lol. Hell I even tried to start it with spraying some WD-40 in the intake to act as ether, no change.
Getting a small amount of white smoke out of the exhaust. Its hard to tell with no exhaust (I only have the downpipe installed), but after cranking I can crawl under there and you can see faint smoke still coming out of the pipe. It also has a very strong smell of exhaust.

So i only have a couple theories,
1) the HPOP gear bolt needs to be retorqued, but I would think with it loose, I wouldn't be getting any ICP readings.
2) Fuel pump is worn out from all the abuse I've put it through, using it to fill empty filters, etc.
3)???

Lt.Dan · Mar 7, 2017

Got to the truck this morning, 45* outside, and fired up on the first try, took about 15 seconds, but it started. Went and drove the piss out of it for a few miles, about a dozen WOT runs in my hottest tune.

Let it sit until now, Just went to start it up at 3pm, 75* outside, and no go. Wtf???

rusty1161 · Mar 7, 2017

Did you put 50-100 miles on it? It can take that long to work all of the air out.

Rusty

Lt.Dan · Mar 7, 2017

Well i gave Clay at RiffRaff a call, and he was speechless, and the only thing he could think of is if one of the injectors was just pissing oil under the Valve Covers. So I tried to start it one last time before I pulled the VC's. And while watching ICP and IPR again, ICP wont get over 330psi, and the IPR is at 94%. I even swapped out the IPR with a known good one, and no difference. I think the T500 is cold blooded and something is wrong!

I mustve been a little too tired last night and when i thought it said 2700psi, it mustve really said 270psi haha.