possibly another head gasket!!?

[junglejoe]

The FelPro's are a thicker gasket overall (0.010") and use a different approach than the factory design. When I talked to them they stated the gasket, like all other gasket manufacturers, were not designed with any thought towards o-rings and had no opinion if they were compatible. There's one machine shop that states not to use, maybe UFC.

My point about the high heat question was it was the only time I've seen an example of the gasket blowing at that location, and if you didn't experience high heat then someone should look closely at the deck surface at that location, they may have wallowed it out during prep.

I would have gone legal by the third time.[/QQUOTED

I appreciate your info and help and everyone else's... Trust me, I do.. I am waiting on my brother to bring me his cap..its a nice day here in Missouri and my Harley is calling my name! I have working stupid hours and just no time to breath hardly and last thing I want is to be aggrivated my this freaking truck .. Stay tuned fellas for an update later..THANKS!

 

[TooManyToys]

And I truly understand your frustration.

 

[rowekmr]

So Fel pro head gaskets are recommended also now. When I did the HG on mine 03 Ex Ford OEM gaskets were the only ones that held up long term.

 

[junglejoe]

Ok.. New cap again.. Its still builds pressure.. Over 16psi..But did not puke coolant.. What else causes pressure in the degas bottle?

 

[junglejoe]

So Fel pro head gaskets are recommended also now. When I did the HG on mine 03 Ex Ford OEM gaskets were the only ones that held up long term.

That's good to know.. That is piece of mind. Thanks !

 

[TooManyToys]

How far does it drop after an overnight cooldown?

 

[DEEZUZ]

You need a combustion gas tester. Any parts store should have one. Stop guessing

 

[junglejoe]

How far does it drop after an overnight cooldown?

You mean the pressure on the gouge? I never have let it sitnwith it on there

 

[junglejoe]

You need a combustion gas tester. Any parts store should have one. Stop guessing

That is what I'm doing tomorrow..

 

[junglejoe]

Ok..just got back from a spirited drive.. Pressure went up after about 5-7 miles of driving..to about 8psi. Then when the boost kicked in the gouge moved quickly to 15psi.. Never above that. Temps were around 206. So I just drive normal under normal boost going up hills the psi was dropping slowly. And stayed at 10-11 psi... Right before I got home I hammered one more time and it went back to 15psi..
Ill get a gas tester tomorrow. It never puked coolant though.. So we'll see what the gas tester says

Something defiantly isn't right.

 

[junglejoe]

Here is a little video you can see how quickly the gauge moves from 10 to 15 psi..https://youtu.be/6hXOmOOmg5Q

 

[TooManyToys]

Your story is similar to akblackfoot's on FTE. Rebuilt and modified power motor that would develop high pressures, but no puking. Removed EGR, etc.

His shop tore the motor down and the gaskets were fine, so no combustion gas getting into the coolant system to puke.

The solution was to add the coolant recirculation kit that a few vendors offer. You drill and tap into the back of the heads, and the coolant lines run to under the thermostat housing to return. One person on the forum who I respect believes it moves more coolant through the head. He might be right, but I believe it removes trapped air at the back of the head.

The heads are manufactured for placement on either bank, but in doing so there is an area that can be problematic for trapping air. The engine manufacturers deal with this type of situation all the time, it's why were have a bleed to degas at the intake manifold and at the radiator top tank. My Lincoln LS 3.9 is a nightmare for this issue.

I was skeptical about this, but it worked for akblackfoot. Then since my motor is apart I kept looking at why it may have worked for him. My heads are tapped for these, but I'll do my own "kit", and may just return the coolant to the front of the heads. But I'm going to use a smaller line, probably 3/16" tubing as I believe it's just venting trapped air.

That's why I earlier asked about pressure hot and cold, but in reality, your test run may be a better proof of the situation.

It will become a video for me sometime, but here is how the heads with my fitting looks. I've got a preliminary video, but I don't think of much use right now.

 

[junglejoe]

Its not really a high horse power engine at all.. My brother has a 675 Hp. 6.0 and his doesn't do this.
Ill do the gas test tomorrow and see what's going on there. Thanks

 

[TooManyToys]

His was the first one I've ever read about having that issue, and that was the cure. You're sounded similar. Just throwing it out there.

Oh, and he could remove his tune and it would be OK.

 

[sootie]

Your story is similar to akblackfoot's on FTE. Rebuilt and modified power motor that would develop high pressures, but no puking. Removed EGR, etc.

His shop tore the motor down and the gaskets were fine, so no combustion gas getting into the coolant system to puke.

The solution was to add the coolant recirculation kit that a few vendors offer. You drill and tap into the back of the heads, and the coolant lines run to under the thermostat housing to return. One person on the forum who I respect believes it moves more coolant through the head. He might be right, but I believe it removes trapped air at the back of the head.

The heads are manufactured for placement on either bank, but in doing so there is an area that can be problematic for trapping air. The engine manufacturers deal with this type of situation all the time, it's why were have a bleed to degas at the intake manifold and at the radiator top tank. My Lincoln LS 3.9 is a nightmare for this issue.

I was skeptical about this, but it worked for akblackfoot. Then since my motor is apart I kept looking at why it may have worked for him. My heads are tapped for these, but I'll do my own "kit", and may just return the coolant to the front of the heads. But I'm going to use a smaller line, probably 3/16" tubing as I believe it's just venting trapped air.

That's why I earlier asked about pressure hot and cold, but in reality, your test run may be a better proof of the situation.

It will become a video for me sometime, but here is how the heads with my fitting looks. I've got a preliminary video, but I don't think of much use right now.

snake oil.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Lmao right...


Vacuum fill a cooling system once and your fine also.

 

[junglejoe]

Lmao right...


Vacuum fill a cooling system once and your fine also.

How do you vacume fill it?

 

[TooManyToys]

If vacuum filling takes care of it that would be great.

 

[junglejoe]

Well just done the gas test and the results were negative on exhaust gas present in the degas bottle. I do have one more question about this...
"IF" a head gasket was leaking under boost only,which is what most do.. Would the exhaust gas still be in the antifreeze ? I started the truck and drove it to get it up to temp. Not to much boost while driving it.. Then did the test.

 

[kleake]

What you describe is exactly how my factory HG's acted when they first started to go. I drive it easy, all is good. Work the motor a bit and pressure would rise quickly. I drove it for 6 months before pulling the heads because it progressively got worse. Even the day I tore it down if boost stayed below 25psi, then all was good, anything above that and pressure would rise. Currently mine is at 3psi when I start the truck up, drive it 10 miles and get the temps up and I have 5-7psi. Run i hard and it will climb to 11 or 12, but as soon as I get off the throttle it immediately drops back to 7-8. Even towing heavy I never see more than 10-12 at the max. I'm still betting it's HG's, but I do hope it's something a lot simpler.