Problem with 2000 F-350: SES, no codes, rough idle

Wicked · Feb 8, 2013

Help!

So I moved into the city and had been leaving my truck at my parents house. It had not been driven in maybe 2-3 weeks with about 1/4 of fuel in it, no additives in the fuel. Temperatures have been very cold (30* high/20*low). So anyway my Mom took my truck to her work earlier this week and she reported that she "hit a big pothole" and the SES light came on. After this she reported the idle was very rough. So it needed fuel and she went and filled it up with diesel.

I got home tonight and just figured something was loose. So I checked under the hood and didn't notice anything wrong at all. It still has a rough idle but sometimes is smooth and other times is rough and then sometimes its really lopey.

I took it to Autozone to have them scan it and no codes came up. He tried scanning it 2 more times and nothing came up. So I bought some fuel additive... thought the fuel might have gelled up.

Anyone know what could be wrong? We just built this engine a year ago so everything is brand new. When we did the engine we did put the grey CPS that came in the Ford master overhaul engine kit. Should I switch it?

On a side note the SES light has come on before after we built the engine on occasion when the truck had been holding a speed for a long time and then if you floored it hard the SES light would come on then go off after about 30 seconds of it being on.

This is all I can think of. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. There is snow falling and I would love to have some fun with this thing before heading back into the city.

BigAlsPSD · Feb 8, 2013

You need a real diagnostic tool to pull the codes, they are there. Without that, I'm simply guessing....

Maybe an issue with the UVCH's, maybe wiring near the driver's side front shock tower chaffing, or the wiring going over the DS valve cover chaffing near the 42 pin connector, or inboard from there where it runs near the lifting eye.

As for the SES light coming on when WOT, it could be HPOP related or simply an overboost code, that your tuner doesn't turn off.

85_305 · Feb 11, 2013

IF the fuel has gelled, which if your fuel wherever you live is anything like NY fuel it WILL gel below 35*, then putting in additive will NOT degel it; you'd need to use diesel 911 to actually degel it. The additive is just to prevent gelling, which I would run in every single tank where ambient air temps are 35* or lower. Speaking from experience. Also, low oil or old oil can be causing that also.

fordfreak4life · Feb 11, 2013

85_305 said:
IF the fuel has gelled, which if your fuel wherever you live is anything like NY fuel it WILL gel below 35*, then putting in additive will NOT degel it; you'd need to use diesel 911 to actually degel it. The additive is just to prevent gelling, which I would run in every single tank where ambient air temps are 35* or lower. Speaking from experience. Also, low oil or old oil can be causing that also.

Ive never dumped a drop of additive in mine, been in negative temps n sat for a week n started n drove off with no issues holding 60 psi, u guys must have chitty fuel

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

85_305 · Feb 11, 2013

fordfreak4life said:
Ive never dumped a drop of additive in mine, been in negative temps n sat for a week n started n drove off with no issues holding 60 psi, u guys must have chitty fuel

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

Welcome to communist new york :thumbsup:

I've heard of guys just over the bridge in Ontario who have similar things to say, never using additive and not having gelled fuel.

I learned the hard way that anything under 35* i'm not risking being late to work and spending half a day getting the damn thing started again though.

Wicked · Feb 11, 2013

Yea not sure if it was gelled. It is going to have the codes pulled on Tuesday. Hopefully it's something easy to fix. I will let you all know what comes up with the code scanner.

On a side note, I ripped the plug off the block heater :morons: Ford wants $110 for the cable... sound right?

fordfreak4life · Feb 11, 2013

Wicked said:
Yea not sure if it was gelled. It is going to have the codes pulled on Tuesday. Hopefully it's something easy to fix. I will let you all know what comes up with the code scanner.

On a side note, I ripped the plug off the block heater :morons: Ford wants $110 for the cable... sound right?

Google is ur friend, u can buy a whole new cord for 25$ or u can just wire a new plug on it

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

golfer · Feb 11, 2013

you have an under valve cover harness (or injector) unplugged.

have a (real) shop with a (real) scan tool...run a buzz test...that'll tell you which VC to pull off.

nothing else would cause a constant CEL/SES light annnnnnd a misfire.

Slate · Feb 11, 2013

Where are you located? Maybe someone on here has AE and can scan it for soft codes.

Wicked · Feb 13, 2013

Okay got the codes pulled by a Snap-On scanner:

PO 340
PO 541
PO 603
PO 1210
PO 1211
PO 1280

We cleared the codes and drove it around the block until the SES light came back on. Pulled the codes again and only PO 541 and PO 1280.

If anyone has any input as to what these means I would much appreciate it.

ghohouston · Feb 13, 2013

Off the top of my head, 1280 is an icp related code but dont remember what exactly. Po541 has something to do with the intake air heater, my truck has had that code forever because i did away with it

PSDEng · Feb 13, 2013

p1280- ICP circuit out of range low

check the icp sensor for oil in it or the lines crossed. Try unplugging it to see if anything changes. I bet if you unplug it your idle smooths out.

lincolnlocker · Feb 13, 2013

if your idle changes when you unplug the icp sensor it means its working. if you unplug it and it does nothing it means that its already running in default and need to change the sensor. i bet your idle icp is around 700psi if it doesnt change the idle. and at wot your getting less then ideal psi.
live life full throttle

PSDEng · Feb 13, 2013

You're correct.....my mistake! Believe :whs:

Wicked · Feb 13, 2013

I just don't get how 1 pothole could have caused all these codes..... SMH

Okay so to make sure I get this info right as far as to how to fix the truck I need to replace the CPS and unplug the ICP to see if the idle changes. Is this correct? I am not too familiar with these trucks and am going to have to tell someone over the phone how to troubleshoot the problems.

lincolnlocker · Feb 13, 2013

doubt you need to change the cps... double check all connections and all spots that rub.. if the light comes back on while your are simply doing that then there is definitely a connection problem... do this with the engine running. now after all that and the cel is still not on and engine still running, unplug the icp sensor... if the idle changes it means the sensor IS working... if the idle stays the same and DOES NOT CHANGE then the sensor is BAD and needs changed.... the cel will light up as soon as you unplug the sensor.

live life full throttle

Wicked · Feb 13, 2013

Ok I will pass that on to my mechanic and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

lincolnlocker · Feb 13, 2013

just hope it helps man.. actually a cheap fix if thats all thats wrong...

live life full throttle

Wicked · Feb 17, 2013

Okay I think I found out what is wrong. The little protruding plastic tab that the plug secures to on the ICP sensor is no longer there. The ICP sensor plug was not secure to the ICP sensor. So I am trying to think of a way to secure the plug to the sensor without that little tab. Maybe a hose clamp or zip ties for the time being? Also I think I lost the little purple grommet that was on the plug that fit into the sensor, is this a big deal? I guess the sensor is still good it just had the little tab knocked off.

lincolnlocker · Feb 17, 2013

the purple gromet is to keep it clean and i think somewhat water proofs it.. personally if thats whats wrong with it i would put a new sensor in it and not take a chance at it being a bad connection.

live life full throttle